what gauge aluminum to use for floor

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Chucknduck

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Wanted to cover ribs on floor of Lowe 1440 L, thus creating user friendly flat surface (tired of tripping over or dodging them during "epic" fish battles)... Idea is to fill gaps between ribs with rigid foam board, then cover with sheet aluminum. this is my first project of this nature so I could use some ideas on adequate thickness of metal for the job....best screws for attachment and adhesive for carpeting...boat is used on electric only lake so keeping weight down is important.
 
0.10" is pretty standard for a skiff. That's what the manufacturer used on mine. I'd use 3/16 al/al cap rivets to fasten it then used something like hyro turf with drainage on the edges.
 
I thought about the rivets but I'd like to be able to remove floor from time to time to clean out crap that builds up underneath, plus retrieve any small valuables (murphy's law) that may fall in gap (hopefull for tight fit though)
 
smackdaddy53 said:
Rivet it down and carefully drill rivets out to remove it. Once you break the head off a screw you will wish you never did it.

the problem with that is then the bottom end of the rivets will end up in the floor supports and will not be able to be retreived, making the boat a rattle trap
 
hookedontronics said:
smackdaddy53 said:
Rivet it down and carefully drill rivets out to remove it. Once you break the head off a screw you will wish you never did it.

the problem with that is then the bottom end of the rivets will end up in the floor supports and will not be able to be retreived, making the boat a rattle trap
I just try to limit the amount of stainless to aluminum contact because I fish saltwater.
 
Broken screws can be a bit troublesome but can be drilled out just like rivets, the front Deck because of the rise in hull from back to front will require some form of taller supports underneath in sieve real spots since it will not follow contour of floor. I was going to use cedar to block it out where needed but e considering the rigid foam doubled up.
Can the foam have the compression strength to make this work,measured about 5 1/2'depth near middle seat and floor slopes up toward the front deck down to anoint 2" deck to floors




_________________
~Mac~
 
Foam can handle that.

If you use sheet material you can get tapered foam at roofing supply. It comes in a number of different tapers and is closed cell. Poly iso-cyanurate is pretty durable.
 
Thanks for foam tips,I have a bunch of scraps of Lowes green rigid and a 2 x 8 (2") Owens Corning pink leftover , all XPS board from basement insulation "'extravaganza". Covered all the wall with 2" and spray foamed all the rim bays around the rim joist, and 6" block used as rim.

I'm making a temporary wood deck for front until I acquire the aluminum. With the plywood decks do coat both sides with poly or paint? Will foamboard glue stick to wood better when unfinished.

Need to drop temp in since fishing buddies and wife keep complaining about safety hazard of sloped and uneven front floor of boat (Lowe 1440 L). Wife also wants comfy capt's chair up there.
 
I used 1/8" for mine and after cutting, remeasuring, cutting, remeasuring and cutting again I got a nice snug fit. I also put the blue foam from Lowes under my floor and beneath the ribs for flotation, but it also helps support the floor which is super sturdy. Riveted it all down with closed end blind rivets to my ribs. No issues with things falling under the floor itself and getting stuck. I've done some other odd and end work/mods to my boat since installing my floor and have dropped wire pieces, rivet pieces, full rivets, aluminum shavings, etc. while working on the bow of my boat (which has access to my hull bottom). Anything like that that has gotten under the floor comes out the bilge when I clean up my boat with the hose. I also waterfowl hunt out of my boat and it gets a TON of dirt, mud and sand on and under the floor. All comes out the bilge when I wash it down.

IMAG0831_zpsf7f45d6a.jpg


IMAG0832_zpsbfe15950.jpg


IMAG0960_zps26415cda.jpg


Here you can see how snug I got my floor to fit against the hull and ribs. I used an angle grinder to do all the cutting and some files to fine tune the fit.
IMAG0941_zpsa2989ceb.jpg
 
That looks like a really nice job you did on that "Big Terp", do you happen to be in Maryland and
Maybe a terrapins fan? I keep my boat at Loch Raven on the shore since Our neighborhood regulation
Prohibit trailers. That being said, I need to keep this thing light as possible. When you painted yours did you use the textured additive to make it non-slip?
As for dirt and stuff, I need to flush out the bottom. The Chines or ridges ( forgot nautical term)that run the length of hull have gotten clogged under the bench seats since boat gets left out all uncovered all season. Just started covering it the end of last year,and now this season (gets stored upside down in winter).
 
Skiffing said:
Foam can handle that.

If you use sheet material you can get tapered foam at roofing supply. It comes in a number of different tapers and is closed cell. Poly iso-cyanurate is pretty durable.


Two quick questions about using the foamboard type materials,one; does it squeak against aluminum hull when boat is moving, two; would spray rubberized coating be ok on foamboard.???
 
Chucknduck said:
That looks like a really nice job you did on that "Big Terp", do you happen to be in Maryland and
Maybe a terrapins fan? I keep my boat at Loch Raven on the shore since Our neighborhood regulation
Prohibit trailers. That being said, I need to keep this thing light as possible. When you painted yours did you use the textured additive to make it non-slip?
As for dirt and stuff, I need to flush out the bottom. The Chines or ridges ( forgot nautical term)that run the length of hull have gotten clogged under the bench seats since boat gets left out all uncovered all season. Just started covering it the end of last year,and now this season (gets stored upside down in winter).

Thanks man. Huge Maryland fan!! Alumni class of '04. Live in West Virginia now.

Yes, I used a non-skid called Asper Grit when I painted my boat. I did not add it to my paint though. Laid down the first coat of paint, and then sprinkled on the Asper Grit. Let it get dry to a tack and then applied a second coat. Really like the stuff. https://www.softsandrubber.com/aspergrit.html

Mine used to get clogged as well when it was exposed. Once I put in my floor and bow hatch/extension my floor has not got clogged yet. I made sure to clean up the chines really well before I installed my floor. It also stays covered since I put my floor in when not in use now. The floor keeps larger leaves, twigs, etc. from finding their way under the floor to clog things up.
 
Have to clean mine out, unfortunately boat is kept at the Loch year round ( stored upside down there in winter since I can't keep it at my house, "community association rules")
No hose near boat so I have to flush with lake water using buckets. Already scored free outdoor carpet from a neighbor that's in the carpet installation business and last time I chatted with him he may also have aluminum sheet I can use.
Think I'll use that heavy duty Velcro tape to secure carpet so it could be pulled during winter or for cleaning/replacing etc. .....any thoughts on that?

About the Terps, what's your take on the "dust-up" with Penn State in the football game, creating the
" no handshake incident "....... I lived in east PA ( Belmont Hills and then Perkasie but never acquired taste for Penn State's 3 yards and a cloud of dust style offense, plus they were a snooty toward east PA schools)
 

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