Trolling with a 2 stroke?

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lugoismad

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Is there any reason I can't troll a couple big shad lures with my boat, in gear and idling or slightly above?

I was told by the guy I bought my boat from that the motor would have issues if I idled it for long periods of time.

Today I went through about a half mile long no-wake zone on a lake and had zero issues with it. It ran fine and came off idle with no issues.
 
IMO it shouldn't be a problem provided you can run it wide open for 10 minutes or so after your done trolling.
 
It should troll fine but sometimes 2 strokes load up the exhaust with unburnt fuel so you have to rev it up to clear the exhaust out. If it does start to shudder and stumble after a while, kick it into neutral and rev it up, you should see a lot of smoke come out.
 
Before 4 strokes, all people had was 2 strokes.

I just started trolling. I "blow it out" about every half hour. I am on a no wake lake, so I can't run it hard, which is what I'd like to do.

I will be carrying two extra gapped plugs, just in case. richg99
 
I am a salmon and trout troller myself and use a Merc 25hp 2 stroke from 1995. Yes, it loads up with unburnt fuel, yes it fouls plugs, and yes you will have to clean the transom of black soot after every long troll. But it will do it! I use the electric when I can and also a 3hp kicker.
 
I have an electric trolling motor, but it needs new steering cables, and I'm not sure if I want to invest the money in it.

I'll try trolling with the 2-stroke and see what happens.
 
Where I am from, the norm for the past few decades has been to troll with two stroke motors. Trolling the big lakes is the primary method of fishing here, four strokes and electrics are becoming more popular, but the buy and sell pages are still full of two strokes for sale that will be used for trolling.
 
i bought a 4hp mariner 2 stroke that the previous owner used for a trolling motor on his walleye boat ... the motor is a 85 with super low hours and still has the OEM spark plugs .. so i guess its more up to you!
 
xXOnyxXx said:
i bought a 4hp mariner 2 stroke that the previous owner used for a trolling motor on his walleye boat ... the motor is a 85 with super low hours and still has the OEM spark plugs .. so i guess its more up to you!

The key there is "super low hours." I can usually get a season of trolling out of a set of plugs, but rough math for me would mean a season of trolling is somewhere near 450 hours. And lets be fair, when plugs foul they don't absolutely need to be replaced, you can burn them and then sand the contacts, re-gap and use for another 450 hours. I just find it easier to keep a spare set in the locker to swap out.
 
jethro said:
xXOnyxXx said:
i bought a 4hp mariner 2 stroke that the previous owner used for a trolling motor on his walleye boat ... the motor is a 85 with super low hours and still has the OEM spark plugs .. so i guess its more up to you!

The key there is "super low hours." I can usually get a season of trolling out of a set of plugs, but rough math for me would mean a season of trolling is somewhere near 450 hours. And lets be fair, when plugs foul they don't absolutely need to be replaced, you can burn them and then sand the contacts, re-gap and use for another 450 hours. I just find it easier to keep a spare set in the locker to swap out.

but there is one thing i left out ... i have had the motor for 2 years and the oem plug is still in it and running .. 1st pull start cold/hot it don't matter!!.. no need to change em out ... i was raised on 2 strokes, you never sand and regap your plugs .. buy new and call it good, they are to cheap to cause a burn out and get stranded.

a properly tuned engine will not foul plugs!!! ...
 
I have two 2 strokes. One is a 1988 Evinrude 30 hp and the other is a 1993 Johnson 6 hp and can not remember when the plugs last fouled or were changed. Both have lots of hours. For me since they changed the oil over to the type 3 the plug problem mostly disappeared.

Back in the 1960s I was running 2 stroke motor cycles a lot and with them and that old type oil you did go anywhere without a spare set of spark plugs.

Regards, Keith
 
xXOnyxXx said:
a properly tuned engine will not foul plugs!!! ...

But are you trolling for hours on end? I will troll all day and never stop the motor and never throttle it up and sometimes it will foul my plugs. Maybe it needs to have some looking at. I will also have my entire transom covered in black oil from the exhaust after trolling all day. I guess that's not normal either? I know snowmobile engines better and I know that the liquid cooled ones with power valves you do not want to run for too long at just above idle speed. They benefit from getting throttled up regularly and I just assumed the boat motor would be similar.
 
Keep some ringfree in the fuel. Problems solved.

https://www.shopyamaha.com/product/details/ring-free-plus?b=Yamalube+for+Outboard&d=38|38&dealernumber=

Available at dealers or online, and that link doesn't show it but it's available in the little tiny bottles that treat like 5 gallons, and it's cheap.

2 stroke engines that idle a lot benefit greatly from ring free. It was originally designed for this purpose, to keep the rings from becoming carbon-stuck in 2 strokes that do a lot of idling. It also works well in all 4 strokes to de-bond the carbon deposits from valves, pistons, heads, ports, etc. I used to have some before and after pics of a lawn mower engine that spent it's entire life idling. Carbon fouled. Everything was thick black carbon. Put the head back on and ran a quart of fuel through it using ringfree-treated gas. There was a distinct "line" of "clean" from the intake valve across the piston. The stuff flat works!

Even mercury techs love the stuff.

I've saved customers a LOT of money by using it. At least 4 times, the big yamaha twin bike engines (1600cc, 1700cc, 1900cc)-especially the ones with carburetors. Guys riding them would "blip" the throttle a lot. When they do that, it goes rich for a split second, then back to idle. At idle, there wasn't enough heat made to burn the junk off. Over time it would build carbon up on the intake and exhaust valves and especially the intake valve stems on the rear cylinder (which ran richer than the front cylinder). Then one day, mr. Customer is out on a ride and notices that under power, the engine drops to one cylinder, but idles fine. The carbon is holding the valve open slightly and it was real noticeable at 2000 RPM+. I called Yamaha about the issue and they described that the carbon deposits were causing it, and said to pull the heads and clean them. Ok, so we had ringree in stock...let's try it. 2 gal of gas and a whole (small) bottle of ringfree. Idled for about 10 min, then run it down the road. It cleared up. So rather than spending a grand on pulling the heads (remove engine labor + gaskets), a $3.00 bottle of ringree solved it, every time.

Only bad part about the stuff in marine engines is that it WILL de-bond the carbon deposits while the engine is running, which obviously ends up in the water. But you're running a 2 stroke anyway, you're pouring a lot of unburned fuel and oil into the water already. Big deal.

Its also worth mentioning that excessive idling is one of the main advantages of the Yamaha 25, which had TWO carburetors. One for each cylinder. They were able to make them run leaner (and therefore cleaner) with 2 carbs as opposed to one carburetor which most everyone else used. 3 cylinder engines mostly used 3 carbs. At leas the Yamaha, suzuki did for sure. I remember a Merc 40 that had two carbs, but 4 cylinders....they were loud and smoky but good motors. And idled like poo, IMO, at least compared to even the twin cylinder Yamaha C40 (later C40's were all 3 cylinder/3 carb).
 
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