Stuck Seats

super_dork · Aug 12, 2015

So, I know this isn't a Tin Boat question but you guys have been so helpful in the past I figured I'd ask. I just upgraded from my 12' custom Jon boat to a 19' fiberglass Stratos fish and ski. The boat has 2 seats that double as bench seats when on plane then are removable for fishing. They are stuck. It looks like they are rusted in. I don't have any clearance to get underneath them and have been spraying PB Blaster on them and wiggling a lot, but I'm afraid I may end up breaking the fiberglass that the base is attached to. Any thoughts on things I can try without damaging either the seats or the boat?

In the pictures, you can see how little clearance there is and what the post underneath is like (I stuck my phone underneath).

Thanks!

super_dork · Aug 13, 2015

So, the middle bench is hinged and has a cooler below. The 2 side seats are designed to be removed and used as fishing seats on the front and back deck. That way you don't have to carry extra seats for fishing. It's a pretty cool setup - just not useful with the seats frozen. Anyway, I worked on prying them loose last night and realized that I was just wiggling the base loose from the fiberglass and not actually making any progress getting the seat post out. So, I decided to just go for it and was able to pry the whole mounting plate up along with the seat and didn't really do any damage to the boat. The bases are 4x4 and I just ordered 2 new ones that are 4x8 and have different hole patterns, so it should be easy to replace them without worrying about the now stripped out holes in the deck.

JMichael · Aug 13, 2015

The fact that they pulled out like that without damaging the boat suggest that the wood or what ever material is under the fiberglass that the screws normally hold on to is probably deteriorated. You might have problems getting the new plate mounted securely.

super_dork · Aug 13, 2015

JMichael said:
The fact that they pulled out like that without damaging the boat suggest that the wood or what ever material is under the fiberglass that the screws normally hold on to is probably deteriorated. You might have problems getting the new plate mounted securely.

While I'm inclined to agree with you, I'd say that they didn't come out easily. I've been working on them for several days. Wiggling them back and forth quite a bit and lots of "encouragement". The second seat didn't move at all until I started prying up on it. They certainly weren't loose before I started messing with them. I felt around inside the holes and the wood feels solid. I'm planning to use a bigger plate that I suspect will get me outside of any potential rot zone. Hopefully.

lckstckn2smknbrls · Aug 13, 2015

Fill the old holes with 3M5200.

super_dork · Aug 13, 2015

lckstckn2smknbrls said:
Fill the old holes with 3M5200.

Good call. I think I just got some of that. Per the instructions, it should be used above 90 deg F. I'm in Houston, TX so I'll have to wait until Christmas before the temps get low enough to use it

Johnny · Aug 13, 2015

I am in Florida - - our temps are equivalent to yours. High 90s to low 100s.
on just small holes, you should not experience any negative issues.
Or, if you are genuinely concerned about the heat issue, put the 5200 in the fridge
for an hour or so to cool it down, then quickly go fill the old holes.
it will work.

DaleH · Aug 13, 2015

I'd fill holes with thickend epoxy or a 2-part epoxy stik before I used 5200 ... there's a place fr 5300, but IMHO this ain't it ...

super_dork · Aug 14, 2015

This may be a dumb question but do I really need to fill the holes if I'm just going to cover them back up with a new plate that has different mounting holes? Why would it matter?

DaleH · Aug 14, 2015

Not a dumb question at all ...

Those holes could be a source for potential rot if water could weep under new plate ... and might be already, if already wet. Rot can migrate pretty far in wood. Plus enclosed spaces can form moisture from condensation. Your call really ...

super_dork · Aug 14, 2015

Sounds like a great reason to patch them up. Thanks for the info!

HarryO60 · Aug 15, 2015

Nice job of getting the old mounts out with minimal damage. If this was my project and the hole was large enough for me to get my hand inside I would coat both the interior and exterior of the mounting area with a sealer like Gluvit. I'd then bolt the new seat mounts in using T-nuts after drilling out the new mounting pattern. The T-nuts will spread the load over a wider area and your can seal them with more Gluvit.

lckstckn2smknbrls · Aug 15, 2015

If you do use the T-nuts put a little anti-seize on the threads.

kstrayhorn · Aug 17, 2015

Are you still trying to separate the pedestal mount from the base? I recently had this same issue so maybe my experiences might help. I removed the base and all as you have. It looks like my base was a little bigger than yours, but I just found somewhere I could sit it so that the stand was in between the base and pedestal. I have an automotive frame machine that has sections that slide so I used that, but I assume you don't have such equipment just laying around. You could also use a thin shelf or table on each side if you have any that are similar heights or even build a rack around the seat out of some scrap lumber. After spraying it all down, I held a striking rod (fancy for large bolt) on the shaft of the pedestal and beat it with a short handled 8lb sledge. Surprisingly didn't take much beating, but I bathed it all in anti-seize afterward anyway.

super_dork · Sep 9, 2015

kstrayhorn said:
Are you still trying to separate the pedestal mount from the base? I recently had this same issue so maybe my experiences might help. I removed the base and all as you have. It looks like my base was a little bigger than yours, but I just found somewhere I could sit it so that the stand was in between the base and pedestal. I have an automotive frame machine that has sections that slide so I used that, but I assume you don't have such equipment just laying around. You could also use a thin shelf or table on each side if you have any that are similar heights or even build a rack around the seat out of some scrap lumber. After spraying it all down, I held a striking rod (fancy for large bolt) on the shaft of the pedestal and beat it with a short handled 8lb sledge. Surprisingly didn't take much beating, but I bathed it all in anti-seize afterward anyway.

Actually, I just tossed the mounts and bases and got new ones. They were too stuck to mess with. On the new bases, I heated the inserts with a torch then put the base in and out of the hole a few times. This loosened up the insert enough that I don't think they will get stuck again now and doesn't cause any issues with the actual mounting of the seat when in the base.

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