Couple newbie questions: drain plug, leak test, paint

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raymont4

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I posted ond post a few weeks ago and you guys were so great i had to come back again.
I bought an older 12 foot fiberglass boat and trailer. I tried searching the forms but couldn't get a clear answer on any of these for fiberglass.
- it did not come with the factory drain plug. It is a major pain to try to get any water out of it. Is it safe to say I could use any drain plug that I can find it Amazon? Just not sure if it being fiberglass makes any difference.
- This is a stupid question, but what is the easiest and most effective way to do a leak test? I think I have a small leak, but not sure of the appropriate way of doing it. Just leave it on the trailer and put a bunch of water in it and look for leaks?
- Lastly, I want to paint both the inside and outside. I saw some guy used some rest oleum paint with a hammer luck, that look ideal for the inside . Any specific type brand or quality of paint I should be looking for?

Much appreciated thanks for your input
 
:WELCOME: aboard!

Yes, the easiest way to check for leaks is to fill it with the water hose; draw a circle around any leaks with a marker.

I am not a painter, so can't help you there, but, there are some professionals on here. Also, there are some professional fiberglass guys on here. They can give you some good, sound advice, and tell you what and how to do it. However, you have to remember this is tin boats, not fiberglass, so not sure how much help you will receive on here.

Perhaps Mr. Johnny will be along to help you with your paint questions.

I wish you the very best of luck with your build!

You might find this link very helpful (I sure did!) https://www.tinboats.net/primer-and-paint-basics/
 
when asking specific questions, it is always a good idea to
include some PHOTOS as the pics can help us help you.

As for the drain plug, if you have the standard 1" brass tube
for the drain, then any standard 1" rubber plug will work.
There are several designs on the market. Each to his own.
Personally, I like the one that expands when twisting the
little handle thing tight. Some are flip up motion.
boat plug.jpg
AND - it is a very good idea to keep a spare plug in your truck
glove box and in your tackle box.

Repairing a fiberglass hull is a bit more complicated than
making repairs on a tin boat.

First of all, you should not have leaks in a solid body FRP (Fiber Reinforced Plastic)
hull. There are no seams, welds or rivets to provide a source for leaks.
If you are going to have a fiberglass boat, then you need to know how to work
with different materials such as fiberglass, cloth, mat, and epoxies.
If this is your first boat, and you know nothing about epoxy and fiberglass,
you will be at a disadvantage from the git-go.
There are tons of good videos on the good ole YouTube to provide a little education
before you start. (search for fiberglass repair)

If you fill the boat half full of water, with the plug in, and you can detect some leaks,
mark those with a magic marker . . . .

Then, take some photos and come back so we can discuss your issues.
Depending on where the leaks are will determine the course of action to take.
There are several very knowledgeable members here that can walk you through the repairs.

Get your boat water tight first - then, we can discuss your painting.
Good Luck and Welcome Aboard.

oh BTW, putting your location in your profile gives us an idea of where you hail from.
 
Thanks again. I just filled the boat up and found that there are a few leaks all on the spine/keel seams. Not the dpine itself, rather the long areas where rivets are (not on the rivets)
Here are some pics. Not that I want to get out of doing this the right way, but I only use just a pop around a local pond with my kids once a while. Am I oversimplifying by thinking I can get some Epoxy or sealant and go down the length of all the seams?
 

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Can't really tell the overall damage . . .
Looks like the P/O may have caulked the seams before.
If so, dig all that out and put in some new 3M5200 caulk/sealant.
but, just for puttering around the ponds, use it as it is.
To be on the safe side, I would get a 12v bilge pump
and hook it up to your trolling battery.

as for the painting = If you want the basic colors, Rust-Oleum is
a good choice. I have had a very hard time finding custom colors in oil.
Only latex base. As for the interior Hammer Look, that is your call.
That paint runs easily, so apply thin, even coats.
On the outside of the boat, wash with a degreaser, sand or scotchbrite
the surface to scuff it up good and paint it.
I would not even prime it. The exterior latex house paints are paint & primer together now.
Just paint it and go boating.
 
Johnnie....you are the paint guy, and well regarded at that.

If his previous paint was oil, and he doesn't prime...will the latex work?

I know that you can put one over the other, but I am never sure if it is...
latex over oil, or oil over latex???

Inquiring minds want to know.....

thanks, richg99
 
I am currently working on an old wooden boat that has the
original 1958 paint on it. I stripped the top of the bow and
side gunnels and applied fiberglass cloth over it.

So now, I am painting over existing paint, wood that has been
sanded down to raw and freshly laid fiberglass.
LOL it don't get no more complicated than that.

I want to use Alkyd Oil primer and paint but it is extinct now.
I used most of yesterday going to all kinds of different paint stores
in search of my needs. Educating the former Burger Flippers that work
at the paint stores as I went....... (no joke - dummer than a box of hammers).
I read and read and read and compared the instruction labels of several (many)
types of paints from different manufacturers. (yes, almost all of my Saturday).
I don't know if it is EPA or what - but most, if not all "basic paint" manufacturers
have gotten away from the generic alkyd oil paints and gone to latex. And all the
sales people swear on their dead cats grave that the latex is as good or better than oil.
Well, I am too old and too much Old School to be hogwashed with that nonsense. (until I see the proof).
So, I am doing more research for another article on Basic Paints - similar to the one
I did for the primers.
so anyway, Rich, yes, an oil based paint that is age cured, intact and not peeling, you can
paint over it with just about anything. FRESH oil paint, you need to primer over it.
The new Rust-Oleum Wood & Fiberglass Primer is $25.00 a quart - a bit steep. I have one can that
will do my job at hand - but no more - Then I will go back to oil based KILZ or something.
My downfall is that I have not had the opportunity to use the new (and expensive) epoxy
marine paints..... such as Duralux, Petit, etc. Valspar is an old company. It has risen up
through the ranks to be a top contender in the marine coatings industry. Even Rust-Oleum
is in the marine coatings market. (and they got their start by rustproofing steel ships in 1921).
If a person wants just a plain and economical paint for their pond hopper boats, there is no
need in putting a lot of money into an expensive paint when the basic latex house paint
will last 10 years under normal circumstances.
Any questions, please ask.

I just found this on the Benjamin Moore website:
Paint Incompatibility can cause loss of adhesion where many old coats of alkyd or oil-based paint receive a latex topcoat.
What Causes It?
When water-based latex is painted over more than three coats of old alkyd or oil-based paint, the old paint may "lift off" the substrate.
How to Solve It:
Repaint the surface using another coat of alkyd or oil-based paint. Alternatively, you can completely remove the existing paint
and prepare the bare surface by cleaning, sanding, and spot-priming where necessary before repainting with a top-quality latex exterior paint.
Note: Information provided by The Rohm & Hass Paint Quality Institute.

So, the rule of thumb would be - - - if you can ascertain there are "less than" three coats of
existing paint, it is okay to paint over it with any type of paint. Latex or oil.
As long as all the coats are sound, firm and not flaking. And, the surface has to be scuffed
up first in order to give the new coat some "tooth" to bond to.







.
 

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