Putting a floor in

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bmsaccaro

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Newbie question here so thanks for being patient.
I have a 1448 vee bottom and I want to put a floor in. I'm planning to use 1.5" aluminum angle to make a flat support across the vee for the plywood to sit on. Do I need to put foam insulation between the ribs?


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Welcome aboard!

Not sure what you mean by between the rivets, explain more what you are asking please.

Do you mean between the angle joint and the hull, between the plywood and the ribs or under the plywood as floatation.

But no foam is needed between joints. Under the decking for floatation is normal. Also remember not to use pressure treated wood. How do you plan on sealing the plywood?
 
1" angle will work just fine. Either way you'll want a few vertical supports off the braces, 1.5" angle will just cost more $$$ and weigh more. Stick to 1/8" thickness and you'll be all set.

I'm assuming you meant "ribs" not "rivets" when asking about the foam. If you're securing the floor down I would certainly add foam as you're adding weight with the extra wood. In the event of an accident it's that much more of your fishing gear that doesn't sink to the bottom.
 
Yes I meant ribs lol. And thanks for the info!

Sealing the plywood was my next question...I'm not using treated but what thickness should I use? 1" 1.5"? And what is marine grade plywood? That sounds like treated wood to me but again, I'm new to this.

I'm planning to seal it with thompsons water seal unless y'all tell me otherwise.


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bmsaccaro said:
Yes I meant ribs lol. And thanks for the info!

Sealing the plywood was my next question...I'm not using treated but what thickness should I use? 1" 1.5"? And what is marine grade plywood? That sounds like treated wood to me but again, I'm new to this.

I'm planning to seal it with thompsons water seal unless y'all tell me otherwise.


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Foam will help take some of the spring out of the floor.
 
bmsaccaro said:
Yes I meant ribs lol. And thanks for the info!

Sealing the plywood was my next question...I'm not using treated but what thickness should I use? 1" 1.5"? And what is marine grade plywood? That sounds like treated wood to me but again, I'm new to this.

I'm planning to seal it with thompsons water seal unless y'all tell me otherwise.


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Yes many use the pink or blue board foam between the ribs. It can be purchased in different thickness so ideally you would want it so that it is level with the top of the rib.

The thinkness of the plywood for the decking is mostly dependent on how large of an open span there is or if there is foam support under it. I mostly use either 1/2" or 5/8" plywood with great results. If the ribs are close together and filled with foam you could even get by with 3/8" ply.

ACX ply is regularly used as is BCX plywood. Marine ply has minimum voids between ply layers and different wood veneers but still use basically the same glues.

As to sealing the ply I have been recommending a formula that an old wood worker directed me to and it really works very well. It's relatively inexpensive and all ingredients can be bought at any hardware store or Walmart.

It's simple to mix up and goes like this. 1 part Boiled linseed oil, 1 part spar urethane and 2 parts mineral spirits. It is applied very liberally, until it starts to pool and extra heavy on all edges and holes. Then it is allowed to cure for 48 hrs., 72 hrs. is better. then it is either coated with 2 or 3 coats of spar urethane or it can be painted.
 
onthewater102 said:
Ooooorrrrr keep your tin boat tin and use aluminum sheeting for the floor

Just out of curiosity what are you paying for a 4X8' sheet of aluminum and what gauge do you use? Next, what do you cover it with to keep it from getting slick when it's cold enough to frost over?
 
All depends on what you're doing. Seems most use 0.090" or 0.100", and if you can get to the yard a 5x10 sheet in CT runs ~$200.

You can go a lighter gauge if you've got foam backing it & sharing the load, you can go heavier to 1/8" if you're not going to have as much support.


As far as covering I do not like carpet - it's heavy, and it holds the slime from pickerel & pike & gets really nasty when that stuff bakes in the sun so I used Tuff Coat rubberized paint. But I didn't even use aluminum, I used FRP sheets but poured foam behind them for support. BUT...I didn't allow for enough drainage so I've got my own issues to work out now.
 
onthewater102 said:
All depends on what you're doing. Seems most use 0.090" or 0.100", and if you can get to the yard a 5x10 sheet in CT runs ~$200.

You can go a lighter gauge if you've got foam backing it & sharing the load, you can go heavier to 1/8" if you're not going to have as much support.

OK. I understand the idea of using aluminum to eliminate any wood but at that price it could be cost prohibitive to some. Then for me the nearest supplier is 1.5hr. away but I do like the concept.
 
Yeah - probably only pays if you're going to keep the boat someplace that it will be exposed (ie no cover) or you're looking for a lightweight solution so you can still carry it. .090" aluminum weighs ~ 70% of what 5/8" plywood would weigh, even less when you factor in the extra weight of carpet typically applied over wood.

But...no worries about it ever rotting out
 

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