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PostPosted: 27 Jan 2016, 09:40 
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Joined: 13 Jan 2016, 23:11
Posts: 95
Location: Upstate NY
I inherited a Wards sea king aluminum boat (14 foot) that needs all the wood replaced (transom & seats) which I've begun to do.
File comment: Here is the transom removed
MyTransom.jpg

I've begun cleaning up the aluminum.
SeaKingTransom.jpg

And here is a test fit of the new transom.
File comment: Test Fit new transom
NewTransom.jpg


I'll post a picture of the boat before starting soon (it's on another computer tucked away somewhere)
It's too cold out to finish the transom, so I've started on the three bench seats made of plywood (that were once covered with vinyl).
The foam inside the aluminum enclosures looks fine, but while I have them apart, should I replace the foam as discussed elsewhere?
I appreciate all your comments.
This is not a full boat project, so I hope this is the right section to post in.
Best regards,
Kris



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1970 Wards sea king Aluminum & 1999 Johnson 15 hp 2 stroke
Length 13' 10", Beam 62"
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PostPosted: 27 Jan 2016, 09:52 
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:WELCOME: Thanks for posting we love pics :beer:



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Project "A Little Snookered" viewtopic.php?f=21&t=22132
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PostPosted: 27 Jan 2016, 10:04 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
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Location: Algonquin Il
If the foam is the white bead type (open cell) I'd replace it with the blue or pink (closed cell) foam insulating panels. The transom knees have a very StarCraft look to them, StarCraft made boat for Wards.



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1971 14' Ward's Sea King Jon Boat / 1983 Mariner 25HP
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PostPosted: 27 Jan 2016, 17:54 
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Appreciate the transom knees pointing to Starcraft being the possible builder.
I've read through so many threads and pictures, but have yet to find those transom knees in 3's.
Yes, the foam probably is open as it's original and little beads do come off from time to time.
I'll read through as many threads on the closed foam available and look into swapping out the original foam for new & improved.
Best regards.



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1970 Wards sea king Aluminum & 1999 Johnson 15 hp 2 stroke
Length 13' 10", Beam 62"
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PostPosted: 27 Jan 2016, 21:13 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
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Location: Algonquin Il
uncndl1 wrote:
Appreciate the transom knees pointing to Starcraft being the possible builder.
I've read through so many threads and pictures, but have yet to find those transom knees in 3's.
Yes, the foam probably is open as it's original and little beads do come off from time to time.
I'll read through as many threads on the closed foam available and look into swapping out the original foam for new & improved.
Best regards.

Up until the late 60's early 70's StarCraft's had 3 knee braces.



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PostPosted: 27 Jan 2016, 22:50 
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lckstckn2smknbrls wrote:
If the foam is the white bead type (open cell) I'd replace it with the blue or pink (closed cell) foam insulating panels. The transom knees have a very StarCraft look to them, StarCraft made boat for Wards.

I'm getting 3/4 inch exterior plywood to replace the 3 bench seats.
The rear seat is the worse, lot's of wood rot:
Seat1.jpg

Seat2.jpg

Seat5.jpg

SeatSideViewFoam.jpg

Here's a block of foam underneath the bench seat:
SeatFoamUnderneath.jpg

Here's what the wood seat looks like underneath:
Seat Underside.jpg

I'll have a look at the pink and blue foam sheets available while getting the plywood.
Thank you again for all your comments.



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1970 Wards sea king Aluminum & 1999 Johnson 15 hp 2 stroke
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PostPosted: 28 Jan 2016, 08:21 
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Location: Upstate NY
I found these 2 inch 4 x 8 ft. sheets at Lowes:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Cornin ... /202085962

Will this suffice to replace the styrofoam blocks?
Should I glue the pieces together?

Any advice greatly appreciated. Most of what I've found on utube videos is the two part foam mixture, but nothing for my application of the chamber underneath the three bench seats.

I did find these EPS flotation blocks from this site, and want to check further into that route:
http://univfoam.com/floatation

Best regards



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1970 Wards sea king Aluminum & 1999 Johnson 15 hp 2 stroke
Length 13' 10", Beam 62"
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PostPosted: 28 Jan 2016, 09:25 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
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Location: Algonquin Il
The home depot foam is what I've used. No real need to glue it together as long as it's trapped inside the bench seats.



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PostPosted: 02 Feb 2016, 09:31 
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Okay, wood cut to match seats and transom.
I've been told and also read to use either Spar Varnish or oil based porch and patio paint. Anyone tried either and have input on what worked for them?
Best regards,

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk



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PostPosted: 02 Feb 2016, 11:02 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
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Location: Algonquin Il
There is a formula of Spar urethane, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirts that's said to work very well.
I myself have used high quality exterior flat latex paint on the plywood floor of my duck hunting boat. On my StarCraft runabout I used spar varnish to seal the plywood and then Rustoleum for the top color coat.
For the transom of my runabout I will probably try the Spar Urethane, Boiled Linseed oil and Mineral Spirts mix, all I will need to buy is the Boiled linseed oil.


Last edited by lckstckn2smknbrls on 02 Feb 2016, 12:34, edited 1 time in total.


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PostPosted: 02 Feb 2016, 12:06 
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Joined: 13 Jan 2016, 23:11
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Location: Upstate NY
Thank you for your input!
I will look for the Spar Varnish with an internet search. Home depot did not stock it while there this morning, but maybe it can be ordered.
Here's one recipe I found: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/article ... ish-blend/
I'll look around some more before deciding.
Thanks



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PostPosted: 02 Feb 2016, 12:44 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
Posts: 4167
Location: Algonquin Il
uncndl1 wrote:
Thank you for your input!
I will look for the Spar Varnish with an internet search. Home depot did not stock it while there this morning, but maybe it can be ordered.
Here's one recipe I found: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/article ... ish-blend/
I'll look around some more before deciding.
Thanks

PM sent.



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PostPosted: 03 Feb 2016, 20:54 
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Joined: 13 Jan 2016, 23:11
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Location: Upstate NY
Since I'm just copying the wood bench seats, I decided to order new stainless truss head bolts to hold the wood down onto the top of the flotation chambers. I found this site and the prices seemed good to me, especially compared to the hardware store nearby:
http://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Ma ... -s/664.htm
The spar varnish is also coming in the mail, and then I can get started finishing up the bench seats and transom.
I might try the recipe passed on to me by
lckstckn2smknbrls in the above threads. I found the thread mentioned, but then lost it again.
From my notes, I think this is the recipe:
Transom Project & Notes
Simple to mix up and goes like this:
1 part Boiled linseed oil
1 part spar urethane
2 parts mineral spirits.
It is applied very liberally, until it starts to pool and extra heavy on all edges and holes.
Then it is allowed to cure for 48 hrs., 72 hrs. is better.
I'll post more pictures once i get further along.


bolts.jpg

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PostPosted: 06 Feb 2016, 04:02 
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I realize that most people are not re-foaming their bench seats but...I did. First off, make sure you have a good temperature and wear disposable gloves. I used the 2 part foam from us composites found here:
http://www.uscomposites.com/index.html
I read quite a bit of the notes people had posted here, and elsewhere. Temperature is very important. As this is a winter project, the company suggested warming the two part solutions in a bucket with warm water. I did NOT do this, and your results may vary. I found through reading that 0.5 cubic feet per pound would be achieved by adding equal parts of part A and part B, i.e. 16 ounces (1pint) each of A + B equals a foamed volume of 1 cubic feet. Remember that one pint = 473 ml. My seat boxes ( 2 out of the three) measure 7 x 10 x 36 inches. Multiply this together equals 2520 cubic inches, divided by the conversion factor of 1728 equals 1.5 cubic feet.
I warmed the basement apartment, and made a template/of the aluminum boxes with some luan for the two ends and the open area under the bench seat(s). Each of the two rear and middle seat areas were foamed first. I drilled out the brackets holding the wood bench seats onto the aluminum housing holding the foam. I calculaed that I would, ideally need 24 ounces of each part A and part B mixed together to make my floatation under the bench seats. I have two heaters running, and did not heat the two cans in hot water. I took 30 ml. of each part A and part B, mixed together and poured to make the two larger bench seat flotation systems. I started with 12 ounces of each, mixed well and found that almost 1/2 of the under seat area filled with foam.. It actually took closer to 32 ounces of each solution to fill each area under the wood seats. Your results will obviously be dependent on the temperature and how you mix things.



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PostPosted: 07 Feb 2016, 22:18 
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Pictures will follow shortly of the floatation chambers, seats, and transom...I cleaned up the aluminum floatation boxes under the wood seats with a wire brush and some sandpaper. Cleaned everything with Mineral Spirits and a rag before painting. It's cold outside, so used the basement with a heater running, just like for the foam project. Tractor supply had the Self Etching Primer. 2 cans was enough to coat the three floatation chambers. I'm going to let them dry overnight with the heater running, and will take pictures tomorrow. I'm going to just roll some Rustoleum paint on tomorrow after work, and will update with pictures then. Have not decided on the colour yet, but will probably be whatever is on sale at WalMart or TractorSupply. Might go with the gallon can for less than $30. I did find these links that have some good read for the Transom Cap which I'm going to fabricate after installing the new wood transom:

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owners-g ... ransom-cap

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-rep ... esto/page5



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