Overwhelmed by paint selection!

I'm almost ready to paint. I've got some bare aluminum that has been sanded with 100 grit and then some with pre existing paint in pretty good condition. This is all inside the boat, not painting the outside.

I picked up two cans of rustoleum self etching primer today. How much will one can cover?

My question is what topcoat paint should I get? I want the color to be light gray, and I want to brush/roll the paint. Also I have some paint grit I will be adding to the paint while wet for traction. Is any quality latex exterior paint ok?

Also, I have a trip coming up soon, and would love to paint beforehand, so something with a lower application temp would be ideal.

Thanks in advance.

This is an article on PRIMERS that I wrote some time back.

https://www.tinboats.net/primer-and-paint-basics/

Basically, it says - - - READ, UNDERSTAND and FOLLOW the directions on the can.

on a flat surface, paint usually covers around 100 square feet per quart,
400sf per gallon. The manufacturer provides this information on the can.
If you have corners, ribs, protrusions, etc, the square foot coverage decreases accordingly.
Self Etching Primer is designed for bare metals - - - NOT painted or coated surfaces.
each case is different. all paints and coatings are different.
if you have trust issues, try to do a sample square before you paint your whole boat
and mess it up.
good luck !!

READ, UNDERSTAND and FOLLOW the directions on the can.

Very helpful Johnny thank you!

So it seems like the aluminum primer may be better than the self etching primer, especially since there are a couple of areas that are bare metal adjacent to exiting paint (where the old benches were removed)?

I've looked around some more online and can't really find anything to say I can't use an exterior latex paint over either the aluminum primer or the self etch primer. Any comment on this?

Personally, I use a good brand of latex flat house paint for the interior
and Rust-Oleum oil gloss enamel for the exterior.
I am what people call a "pleasure boater" - - - not fishing or hunting,
just boating around to have fun.

my bass boat is not painted. Just a good inexpensive boat to go out
fishing with. I do not spend a lot of time on cosmetics on that one.

so whatever you feel comfortable with within your skillset, will work just fine.

It's looking more and more like getting the paint done before the trip is not going to happen... So on the positive side it's less of a time crunch. A rushed paint job is usually a bad paint job anyway.

So here's my plan after my trip unless someone tells me I shouldn't:
- clean thoroughly
- sand existing paint
- clean again
- wipe down with white vinegar
- spray on rustoleum aluminum primer
- brush/roll rustoleum oil based paint
- while wet, sprinkle on paint grit for traction


Sound good? Does anyone know if the aluminum primer is ok for going over paintable silicon?

Thanks.

Junky, in MY world, that is what I will do . . . exactly.

question - you need to expand more on the paintable silicon.

I have been using automotive seam sealer just because I had
it on hand from some body work projects and am quite pleased
with the results. It is the same stuff that is used on your cars
to seal joints and smooth down factory edges. Holds primer and
paint extremely well. Lift up the hood on your car or truck and
you can see how it is used. Available at NAPA or other parts stores.

paintable silicone caulk is usually reserved for residential home projects.

for a professional look, tape off the area for the non-skid sand.
don't just throw it on willy-nilly.
Check out this thread: https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40097




.

Thanks Johnny

The silicon is from GE. 100% silicon and paintable. Not the acrylic blend stuff.
https://www.lowes.com/pd_180781-72643-LW7001_0__?productId=3172089#BVRRWidgetID
It's there now, no going back.

I haven't seen the drylock masonry product with grit. I will look into it.

What I have is commercial paint grit, not creek sand or something. I am planning to paint the sides and transom. Once dry, tape off the sides and paint the floor and decks, sprinkle in the grit, allow to dry, and vacuum off excess. And then likely topcoat that with a thin layer of paint depending on how it looks.

The reason I used this DRYLOK product in the first place
was to waterproof new block that I put in my house.
ONLY to find out it had the grit in it.
I went back to Lowe's, the paint gurus said there is no grit
in it - - - of which I went to show them - they were baffled.
Of course, these guys never use all their products.

the DRYLOK can does NOT say it contains grit !!!
I found out by surprise. I went ahead and painted the new block
thinking I could come back later, knock the grit off with a piece of
concrete block and the texture would match the existing.
I was wrong - - - the grit does not come off.

Now, on to the issue of sprinkling grit (of any kind) onto wet paint.
Oil base, water base or whatever - the binding agent that holds the
paint and sand together is not nearly as strong as the DRYLOK. It is very aggressive.
and this is just from my own personal experience and my personal opinion.

Don't over think it - - - it is a boat - - - not a space ship going to the moon.

as for the already applied silicon product, prime and paint it and move on to
your other projects. You will be fine.

some PHOTOS of your adventure will be warmly received !!

Here's a couple I have on my phone. Most are on my camera (will do a proper build thread when done)

I'll do a sample board of my paint schedule once I pick up the primer and paint.

I think I could find a scrap or two of aluminum around here...