Removing transom brace? Rivets?

Guys I need to remove my transom brace to replace the transom wood. I well need to remove the 6 rivets connecting the hull bottom and transom brace.
Would you guys use rivets or SS hardware when installing the transom brace? Also what size rivets or SS hardware?

Sent from the dust in front of you!

I put mine back together w/ SS hardware, believe the #10 size fits the old rivet holes nicely.

I'd use rivets myself.

One problem with threaded hardware, even if the SS use is "OK" (can still cause galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals) is that if the brace is subject to high stresses ... which it likely will be ... the threaded post of the fastener and actually wear or cut away at the hole making it bigger.

Galvanic corrosion can be prevented by insulating the aluminum from the stainless. I completely ISOLATED from the aluminum by nylon washers under the heads of the bolts and by adhesive-lined heatshrink applied to the bolt or fastener body. Properly insulated, you can use SS fasteners on alumnum, but they MUST be isolated.

If you let me know the length rivet you need I can send you some ...

[Edit - Updated info about jnsulating the materials from each other]

Thanks guys!
DaleH how do i figure the length of the rivets? It will go through three pieces of aluminum if that helps. I can borrow a awesome commercial rivet gun from work.

Sent from the dust in front of you!

DaleH said:

I'd use rivets myself

Click to expand...

Dale, you have issues with the SS you used on this transom?

https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465

Ictalurus said:

DaleH said:

I'd use rivets myself

Click to expand...

Dale, you have issues with the SS you used on this transom?

Click to expand...

No I did not. In that application, the knee rivets to the bottom of the hull were not compromised or replaced, just rebucked after the new transom was put in. I did use some to hold the transom together, but the forces there were straight on axis (axial) thrust and not lateral (co-axial or 'sideways') sheer forces like a knee brace would be subject to, therefore the bolts wouldn't cut bigger the thru-holes.

All SS bolts used on that one were completely ISOLATED from the aluminum by nylon washers under the heads of the bolts and by adhesive-lined heatshrink applied to the bolt or fastener body. Properly insulated, you can use SS fasteners on alumnum, but they MUST be isolated.

But if just holding 2 pieces of metal together "without any coring" in-between AND if subject to any sideways sheer ... I'd go for rivets if it were me.

But I THANK YOU for bringing this to my attention ... as I'll go back and edit my 1st comment here ...