First boat and needs work

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Silver

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Bought my first boat from an old timer who's had it for 40 years for $275, seems like a decent deal but it needs work. Not sure exact model but it's a 12' aluminum Crestliner (from 60's-70's?).

Where do I start is my question? It seems like a pretty blank slate, the transcom and bench wood needs replacing but any suggestions if I should paint it? Seems that what most do here, I definitely don't like the stains from the screws can I polish that out and just replace the screws? Hopefully I attached pics right..

Any help/ideas appreciated! Never owned a boat and looking forward to taking my boy out fishing soon!
 

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cool looking boat! Mine had similar screws, I ground them off and replaced them (or filled the holes with rivets) and then painted it from above the rubrail, I left the boattom alone

before

20160228_153843.jpg

after

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That is an awesome starter boat Silver. You'll be able to build it however you want to. My advice is limited since this is my first restore too. But... Read read read. These guys have a lot of info already posted. You just have to search for it. And when you can't find it then ask. I know at least for me all the wood has to be replaced so I'm working on that with my boat. I also know that you have to use the same metal screws and rivets as your boat because if you use different metal they react and cause issues. I also know treated wood is bad so you use ACX or BCX plywood to replace your transom and any decking you might add. I guess the X stands for exterior which uses a waterproof glue. Then there is a "old timer's" sealer that everyone recommends. It's 1qt mineral spirits, 1qt spar urethane and 2qts boiled linseed oil. Mix that all together and you get one gallon. Brush it on the wood liberally and let it puddle. Keep apply until it puddles. Really hit the edges. Then wipe off the excess and let it dry for several days. Are you going to add a deck or just keep the benches? What is the beam (width) of your boat?
 
well, first of all, if you don't like rust stains
on your newly acquired treasure, don't use
iron or steel fasteners in the future.

I just saw an owners brochure for a 1962 12' Crestliner
on ebay yesterday.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1961-Crestliner-Parts-Service-Catalog-subsidiary-of-Bigelow-Sanford-/121972798713?hash=item1c662534f9

if you are interested in the boat and history of it, check out https://www.retrocrestliner.com
if not, just spruce it up good, make it safe, add some lipstick
and take the boy out FISHING !!!

after you get it all cleaned up, wood replaced, etc,
come back and ask about the primers and paints.




.
 
Wow I'm impressed by the activeness in this community!

perchjerker said:
cool looking boat! Mine had similar screws, I ground them off and replaced them (or filled the holes with rivets) and then painted it from above the rubrail, I left the boattom alone

Johnny said:
well, first of all, if you don't like rust stains
on your newly acquired treasure, don't use
iron or steel fasteners in the future.

I will definitely replace those screws, so is the suggestion to go with Aluminum screws/fasteners only?

And I never thought of just painting above rubrail thanks for the idea perchjerker

RockinD said:
Are you going to add a deck or just keep the benches? What is the beam (width) of your boat?

The width is 48" and I'm not entirely sure about deck/modifying like I've seen here, I would love to have a setup like that but do want to get out on the water first, and as of now I only can car top it on my Yukon so until I get a trailer I probably shouldn't go too crazy.

I appreciate the info on the 'old timers' sealer, is that all i'd need for the wood? I planned to use 1/2" or 3/4' ply and have heard before not to use PT as it can ruin aluminum so will not go with that.
 
Silver said:
I appreciate the info on the 'old timers' sealer, is that all i'd need for the wood? I planned to use 1/2" or 3/4' ply and have heard before not to use PT as it can ruin aluminum so will not go with that.

Of course I'd leave out a part. After you have let it dry for several days you need to put 2 coats of spar urethane on it and let that dry well. And from what I understand you're good at that point. Guys if you have anything to add please chime in.
 
Johnny said:
...if you are interested in the boat and history of it, check out https://www.retrocrestliner.com

This is great thanks for sharing - after checking this out for a bit my boat looks just like the Sportsman 12 in the 1963 catalog from that site!
 

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Nice purchase, classic hull.

I suggest you use it for a season, fixing what you must...like transom or benches...but "making do" until you get a reasonable sense of what you can do that is cost-effective and utilitarian.

Consider, instead of painting, getting a box of generic Brillo pads, a bucket of water, and something to sit on, and just use the scouring pads above the splash rail. As Pappy will attest, after the first few passes, the soap acts as a lubricant and the oxidation and rust streaks clean up like new. Takes a bit of time, but not a lot for a 12' unpainted boat. I did it on my model A and and Pappy did it on at least one of his vintage runabouts. Leave the lower part of some other time.

You can decide about paint colors later if you are still so inclined. Once painted, generally, that boat will always be painted by you or successive owners.

For now, keep it simple while you learn about the hull.

Best wishes, have fun.
 
Thanks Kismet, I like all your suggestions and others suggestions as well - I will concentrate getting it safe and water worthy and save paint/deck/etc for another season. Can't wait to get on the water!

So the project has started and I filled with water to do leak test I read about here and there are two leaks, both of which appear to have been filled by something at some point. One is at rivets mid boat, the other is toward front center of hull which I can't tell but looks like a really bad dent there or designed that way??

What do I do about this?

qxaWIT4.jpg


vbUqYLT.jpg



Next I'd like to tackle the the benches and transom - thanks for the guidance so far I got 1/2" ACX and what I need for the old timers formula, took the benches off and now working on transom which will use as template.

My questions is about the hardware, particularly for benches. In pic you'll see its quite rusted and will have to grind off and replace if I could even find this type of hardware, any recommendations? The bench design is nice with the ball hardware holding the rods, I'd like to keep this design for now if possible.

Thanks all I hope I didn't scare anyone away!

sMWZpaE.jpg

6Lmu6zl.jpg
 
Making progress all wood removed had to cut some bolts with dremel tool for transom but it's done and now I have templates.

Now got it hull up and ready to fix the 2 leaks! Read more here and decided to re-rivet a couple spots and use 5200. I'm guessing a remove the puddy in the gap but what do I put in its place?? 5200 will work for that too?
 

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My current boat is a 70's model Lowe 1448 that spent a whole lot of backyard time over many years in my neighbors backyard. It has a 40 year old patina that could never be duplicated and so I've washed it and left it pretty much alone. It doesn't leak and was dent free until I put a 40/30 jet on it and started fishing our local shallow rocky rivers. I've made the interior clean and fishable but on the outside it still looks like it belongs out with the fish with me along as the grateful owner. The nice thing about an old boat is that it's a blank slate that you can do whatever you want with and it comes with this and other great sites for inspiration and information.
 
Kinda learning as I go but cleaned up, drilled out, re riveted with 5200 - will see how it holds up in 7 days once cured.
 

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momule said:
My current boat is a 70's model Lowe 1448 that spent a whole lot of backyard time over many years in my neighbors backyard. It has a 40 year old patina that could never be duplicated and so...

Yeah I think I also am going to keep the outside as it is, no paint. I just cleaned it up and got stains off doing the trick mentioned above and I like how it looks.
 
perchjerker said:
I would be using solid rivets, not pop rivets below the waterline. I know you are sealing them but that's what I would use

thanks

Well shoot, is that the general consensus? I didn't realize and just borrowed the rivet gun and bought these rivets figured it was to easy hah.

I just looked up solid rivets and that doesn't seem like something I can do easily or without proper tools! Is this correct? If I have to re-drill out and have it done properly with someone with the know how I will but man that sucks.
 
well they are hollow. And pop rivets are not really that strong.

I just wouldn't do it, I dont know what others think

You can use solid rivets, it takes 2 people, one with a solid hammer and the other with a buck, which is a solid piece of metal (could be another big hammer like a sledge hammer) to hold against the other side of the rivet while you hammer on it so it flattens out

lots of posts here on the procedure, should not be that hard. And drilling out pop rivets is a piece of cake, then you will see how flimsy they can be

but then, it may hold for a while, it may hold forever. 5200 is good stuff.

I just cant recommend this as a repair method
 
Thanks perchjerker I do appreciate your help and input.

On a positive note I finished cutting the benches and transom pieces, and soaked em good with the old timers formula I hear so much about. Also got rid of all the stains on the aluminum, and ordered transom aluminum corner pieces since they were missing, so some progress.
 
RockinD said:
Are you going to add a deck or just keep the benches? What is the beam (width) of your boat?

The width is 48" and I'm not entirely sure about deck/modifying like I've seen here, I would love to have a setup like that but do want to get out on the water first, and as of now I only can car top it on my Yukon so until I get a trailer I probably shouldn't go too crazy.

I appreciate the info on the 'old timers' sealer, is that all i'd need for the wood? I planned to use 1/2" or 3/4' ply and have heard before not to use PT as it can ruin aluminum so will not go with that.

Hi, Silver. My family has to this day what looks like your exact boat, a '64 Sportsman, at our camp in west central Maine, in mint condition. I don't know if you've launched yours yet, but the Sportsman is very light and shouldn't be considered anything but a cartopper. It is narrow, moderately round-bottomed and very tender. It would not do well with a deck or any modifications that would raise the center of gravity. It is tender enough that you have to be really careful boarding, or you will be in the drink. It has very little freeboard and is downright scary with anything more than a 5hp outboard. I can't imagine a 10hp (max. rated by the capacity plate) on it. It will ship water over the transom in any kind of following sea. We retired it to exclusive cartopper status for ferrying and remote fishing trips on small ponds--bought a 14' Mirrocraft utility for general use. It is however, a well made boat and looks good in polished aluminum finish. The anti-skid floor is a nice feature.
 

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Silver said:
perchjerker said:
I would be using solid rivets, not pop rivets below the waterline. I know you are sealing them but that's what I would use

thanks

Well shoot, is that the general consensus? I didn't realize and just borrowed the rivet gun and bought these rivets figured it was to easy hah.

I just looked up solid rivets and that doesn't seem like something I can do easily or without proper tools! Is this correct? If I have to re-drill out and have it done properly with someone with the know how I will but man that sucks.
Solid rivets are best.
Then there are All Aluminum Closed end blind rivets, when properly sealed will work below the waterline.
 

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