Atwood 800 gph

I have put this new pump in my livewell and cannot get the fitting to stop leaking. It's the fitting with the rubber washer in it like a water hose. I will tighten it hand tight and then about a 1/4 turn with a wrench. And it freaking pours when I turn the pump on. The spray head is about 12 in. Long TH brand.
Anyone ever had this problem

Sounds like you're overpowering your connections. Put a pvc ball valve between the pump and spray bar to slow it down. 800 gph seems alot for a spray bar unless there's a really long run from pump to the livewell. JMHO

As Mr. Produce man says....you may have way too much back pressure for the fitting. Try running the pump without the spray head.

If there are no leaks after removing the spray head, then you could consider drilling out some of the holes in the spray head to alleviate the back-pressure that causes the leaks.

I added an extra valve on the end of my spray arm. I can open it and dump raw water into the well if I feel that the spray is churning the water too much.

Admittedly, I know very little about live wells or bait wells.

richg99

I think it is more likely you have a faulty connection, replace the rubber washer. Verify fitting is seating correctly.
Male and female ends. Do not over tighten, you will deform the washer.
Tim

Thanks fellas, well it has turned out the fitting was not the issue. It's the hose clamps, I am just to dang scared of breaking the fittings they go on. I bought smooth bore hose for the drain line 1 1/8 th and enough 3/4 for the fill line. But came up a little short on the recirculating hose, so temporaily went with the cheap plastic hose. So when it shows up I will take all the batteries out again and tighten the heck out of them. I think I will heat up the hose with a hair dryer to make it a little softer when I locked the clamps down. Thanks again guys

For any below-the-waterline use, I expressly use AWAB type hose clamps. Thry are a premium hose clamp and cost 2-3X that of a std 'pierced' clamp, but these will clamp a true circle, whereas cheaper clamps can only form to a shallow 'D' shape. AWABs are also formed/pressed from a solid piece, without those ribbed cut-outs, so they are less prone to SS crevice corrosion.

I would also use them on any fuel connection below decks ...