Rivet fixing

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Boz Mon

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So after finally getting my jet Jon running and performing good, the rivets aren't holding up to the abuse. I have been thru bolting them with 3m 5200. Is this the best way to go about fixing leaky rivets for good?

There seems to be no discussion about this when looking over build threads for other jet Jon boats. I already had to reinforce the whole front of the boat because it was caving in from going 35mph.

The rivets in the back of the boat aren't the issue as they are buried in resin, the issue is the middle seat and just in front of the middle seat.


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I've been using similar headed bolts. Some of them I have been putting fender washers on because cracks are forming.

Kinda sucks I have so much time and money in this boat and something so simple is keeping me from really enjoying it


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How are your rivets failing? Are they breaking, pulling through, or just not sealing? Are you using pop rivets or the blind variety? I just finished a modest rivet replaement project in my aluminum motor canoe. I did bed them in 3M 5200 (standard, not quick setting). I made sure to clean and roughen the aluminum on both sides of the rivet, and in the hole (as much as possibly without enlarging). I used pop rivets as short and as large diameter as possible, setting with a 17" (Harbor Freight) rivet puller to provide as much force as possible. I coated both sides of the hole and the rivet itself with 5200 before setting (clean-up is a PITA, but the main object is sealing). I noticed that the 5200 tends to flow into the tiniest crevice, including the "pin hole" in the rivet center, so I topped off with an additional drop once or twice. My canoe has a through-hull-bottom rivet where the rear bulkhead face bends 90-degrees from vertical to horizontal (forming a "foot"). This area is stressed by motor torque transmitted from the transom, with the result that after removing the leaking rivet, the "foot" was sprung away from the hull bottom by 1/16" or so. I didn't trust the rivet and puller to bring that flush, so I used an SS screw, nut and fender washers to make a temporary "clamp". I prepped the foot and the hull, then used West system aluminum repair kit epoxy to coat the adjoining surfaces. After passivating the SS fasteners with citric acid (my plan B was to leave the SS fasteners in place for the repair) and coating with molten paraffin (for release) I tightened the screw and allowed the epoxy to set for 48 hours. I was worried about removing this, but after sanding down the "excess" expoxy, other than the fender washer requiring a very light tap with a screwdriver and hammer, it came part very cleanly. I then finished sanding down the epoxy and cleaned up the rivet hole (again) then proceeded to set the rivet in 5200. It was a lot of work, but it turned out very nicely. I do want to emphasize a couple of points if you decide to use SS fasteners permanently, especially below the waterline. There is a small, but real galvanic potential between SS and Al, with SS being the more noble of the two metals (exact potential depends on the specific SS and Al alloys). If the boat will be in water, especially salt water for extended periods of time, I you should consider trying to passivate the SS by soaking in a mild acid (I used citric acid as recommended on more than one metalworking site) shortly before fastening. I dissolved my citric acid in boiling water for the soak. In theory, at least, this process will produce a thin inactive coating on the SS fastener that will be trapped between the SS and the Al so that galvanic action will be minimized. This might be overkill, but I put so much work into the refastening work on my canoe that I thought it was a worthwhile precaution.
 
My rivets are getting loose and in some cases the boat is cracking around them. I think it's because the boat isn't made to be hitting waves with all the extra weight at 35mph.


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I would agree

I think you are using the boat past its design limits and it just cant take it. if you are caving in the front of the boat its more than just fixing rivets that's the issue lol
 
If you plan to keep pushing your boat that hard you should consider adding some structural support to make the hull more rigid.
 
Agree with the above, except sometimes the bracing needs to be tapered, so that metal deflection doesn't happen in a concentrated area (like right next to the brace).

Aluminum work hardens quickly (as compared to steel). Doesn't like to flex, complains with cracks!
 
I have added a lot of reinforcement to the front of the boat. Most of the rivets in the back half of the boat are buried in epoxy so they aren't moving. It's just the middle bench forward.

I think this is probably going to be an ongoing issue with the boat and I might just have to accept it


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I would visit the local scrap yard & see if they have some .090-.125 alum sheet. I hear old road signs work good. Rivet the sheet on the inside to give double skin. Use lots of rivets! Possibly sealant (like S30) in between rivets.

Maybe start planning for an upgrade hull for next winter's project. Seems like most guys rebuild their JJ after 1st season - I did . . .
 
Yea I was thinking about putting something on the hull to make it even stronger. I'm worried about the weight though. I wonder if my boat is thinner than others. Seems like there's a lot of build threads for jet jons but no one discusses anything about going beyond the limits of the hull


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Unless the rivet is physically loose (wiggle with a finger) it can usually be sealed easily and permanently with some medium CA glue. Available through any hobby shop. Simply clean and make sure it is dry then wick some of the CA into the rivet and go boating. Simple as that. In some cases regular CA will work as well but medium seems to really do the trick.
 
Yea several were physically loose and a few even had cracks forming.


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Small update on this: I ordered more 2 part resin and I am going to bury the through bolts that I have already placed. The bolts are holding but some of them are leaky


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