Plywood subfloor

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Timhof13

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Hello, I'm new to the forum and tin boats all together. I have recently purchased a Sears deep v 14 foot boat. I'd like to pull the riveted middle seat and build a floor and a casting platform. I realize I will have to support the middle of the boat with some storage boxes of some sort. I found some really cheap 3/4 oak plywood and am wondering if I can use that. I would seal it completely before the carpeting. I will also store the boat under some sort of shelter to keep the water to a minimum.

Looking for advice, performance is not an issue as I will mostly be on no wake rivers and such.
 
Timhof13 said:
Hello, I'm new to the forum and tin boats all together. I have recently purchased a Sears deep v 14 foot boat. I'd like to pull the riveted middle seat and build a floor and a casting platform. I realize I will have to support the middle of the boat with some storage boxes of some sort. I found some really cheap 3/4 oak plywood and am wondering if I can use that. I would seal it completely before the carpeting. I will also store the boat under some sort of shelter to keep the water to a minimum.

Looking for advice, performance is not an issue as I will mostly be on no wake rivers and such.
Even if properly sealed interior or cabinet grade plywood is not as good as exterior grade plywood in a marine environment.
3/4" plywood is most likely not needed and is much heaver than 1/2" plywood.
 
plywood grade:

A - flawless, sanded smooth, cabinet/furniture/varnish grade
B - some small blemishes, knots or holes filled with matching putty
C - all imperfections have been cut out and "boat" type fill plugs installed. Paint Grade.
D - knots and splits are open, mostly the back side only. (gnarley).
X - exterior grade adhesives used - somewhat weather resistant if sealed/painted correctly.

so, CDX would be smooth one side, gnarley on the back side.
designed for "in the weather" applications IF sealed/primed/painted correctly.
CDX-SYP is the most common for outdoor applications. SYP stands for Southern Yellow Pine.
CCX would be more rigid as it has less imperfections - but difficult to find.
MDO (Medium Density Overlay) plywood is made for exterior signs. Fabricated with
exterior adhesives, has a layer of brown paper adhered to one or both sides,
can be found primed or unprimed in Sign Supply places and sometimes at the Big Box Stores.

avoid MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) unless you are building kitchen cabinets.
avoid pressure-treated plywood and support lumber as it has a tendency
to corrode and destroy metal—up to five times faster than untreated wood.
avoid OSB (Oriented Strand Board) as its sole purpose in life is for roof decking. (not boat decking).

as mentioned, there is a 1/2" exterior grade plywood that works well with
boat floors IF properly supported, sealed, primed and painted prior to carpet.

I don't know about other stores, but, my Lowe's here has signs on its plywood that
simply says "for out of the weather" applications and "in the weather" applications. (such as a doghouse).
Please don't take the word of the "Lumber Yard Professional" to guide you in the right
direction..... all he is doing is regurgitating information that he himself has read on the signs.

and, welcome aboard !!


Personal Note concerning plywood:
Plywood is fabricated in a plant, all pieces are cut and glued together then stacked
in a bundle and steel straps applied to keep it all tight and uniform for storage and
shipping. When it gets to the Big Box Store, it is still stored in the bundle under
tremendous pressure - - - - with this being understood, when you select plywood and
take it home, this is its very first time to "breathe and stretch" since its beginning.
Unless you fabricate it to your project right away, it will start to bend, twist, cup, warp,
and take on shapes other than for what it was intended to do......
So if you are not going to use it right away, I strongly suggest laying it flat on a floor
with some weight on it to minimize this physical movement.
If you just lean it up against the wall and "get to it later" - - - It may (or may not)
be less than flat and straight for your project. And you may (or may not) achieve less
than favorable results in your projects.
This, of course, depends on your location, your temperature, your humidity, the humidity
content of the wood, yada yada yada.

jus my Dos Centavos







.





.
 
So if I seal CDX plywood before the carpet it should be ok. Im a good woodworker, I just don't know the ins and outs of plywood.
 
Timhof13 said:
So if I seal CDX plywood before the carpet it should be ok. Im a good woodworker, I just don't know the ins and outs of plywood.
CDX is a good choice since you're carpeting over it. Seal it very good. Get the edges real good. I used 3 coats of Helmsman spar urethane. Let it dry completely between coats. On top of that, exterior carpet adhesive that is the consistency of peanut butter adds another barrier of protection. But I suggest you use 1/2". 3/4" is not needed for such a small area like a boat and adds a ton of unnecessary weight. And save that nice piece of oak plywood for a project that you won't be covering up.
 
Yes. Sealed CDX would be fine.

As already mentioned above, 1/2 inch is probably just fine for your application. On mine, I did add some blue foam sheets below the deck (between the strakes and supports). That added some flotation (if the boat flooded) and added support below the 1/2 inch plywood.

richg99
 
Timhof13 said:
So if I seal CDX plywood before the carpet it should be ok. Im a good woodworker, I just don't know the ins and outs of plywood.
You can mix your own sealer it's call the Old Timer Formula or recipe.
One part Boiled Linseed oil, One part Spar Varnish or Spar Urethane and two parts Mineral Spirts.
 
Another endorsement for MDO plywood. Here, in San Diego, it is carried by a specialty lumber supply (Frost Hardwood). That's what the seats of my 1982 Bayrunner were made of and the middle seat (the other two are gone as a result of modifications) is still going strong with only its second coat of paint.

On the pool noodles, be aware that you only get about 50% of the floatation that you will get if you use solid foam (because of the round shape and the hole in the middle).
 
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
Timhof13 said:
So if I seal CDX plywood before the carpet it should be ok. Im a good woodworker, I just don't know the ins and outs of plywood.
You can mix your own sealer it's call the Old Timer Formula or recipe.
One part Boiled Linseed oil, One part Spar Varnish or Spar Urethane and two parts Mineral Spirts.
 

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