Sanding aluminum rail and other non-painted surfaces

I tested some 400 grit on the aluminum (unpainted) rail on my '66 Sea King and the result were pretty solid - no scratching, but felt like maybe I was right on the edge of scratching.

Is this an appropriate, meaning will not scratch, solution for all unpainted aluminum? Such as the inside of the boat's gunwale where it is unpainted?

Should I up the grit to 600 or 800?

Other solution I am not thinking of?

Thanks.

With aluminum, it really depends on 'how' the surface was treated - if at all. I usually would just use aluminum polish, with cloth or other pad, but if the surface was oxidized at all (you can feel the bumps) then I might use a little more aggressive pad like a Scotchbrite pad, but still one in the finishing or fine range of aggressiveness. Burlap also makes a good polishing pad that cleans well.

Just so you know ... aluminum likes to oxidize, so as soon as you clean it bright, you could be in for a never ending cycle of cleaning and polishing. On my bare aluminum pieces (non-anodized surfaces) once clean (but not polished) I just let them go au natural.

Dale - how would I know if the surfaced is anodized? And, if so, should I not sand/polish? I would like to get the boat "cleaned up" this one time, and like you, will let it go au natural going forward. This boat sat outside in the elements for the last 5-6 years... I will not let that happen.

Doubtful any part of a hull would be anodized. I had a cabin boat where the window frames around the helm cabin windows were clear anodized and the previous owner messed them up to a fair thee well, but sanding them clean ... ouch. If the surface is dull and chalky - and not smooth - then you can pretty much bet it wasn't treated.

You might want to try Sharkhide after your done.

https://www.sharkhide.com/mpinfo.html

I restored a 1970 Weere 11ft paddle boat with aluminum pontoons.

I started with 120 grit sandpaper and finished with automotive buffing compound. I now wax them annually.

After 4 years they don't look like new but they still look good.

I am working on a '81 Lund now and will use sharkhide when I am at that point.

FishinLite said:

You might want to try Sharkhide after your done.

https://www.sharkhide.com/mpinfo.html

I restored a 1970 Weere 11ft paddle boat with aluminum pontoons.

I started with 120 grit sandpaper and finished with automotive buffing compound. I now wax them annually.

After 4 years they don't look like new but they still look good.

I am working on a '81 Lund now and will use sharkhide when I am at that point.

Click to expand...

Wow... seems like a fantastic product. I have the inside of the gunwale, transom braces, and the top rails. It seems like that would be a real pain to sand down with all of those parts with 400 grit (or lower), etc etc and work back up to a nice finish. A wipe on/off solution is very nice.

Is this really that different from other aluminum cleaners? I am looking to clean it up and then let it go natural - keeping it covered, etc.

I think I am going to give this a run... https://www.mothers.com/02_products/05100-05101.html#&slider1=20

Not really looking for mirror finish, I figure more elbow grease = shiny, less = less shiny. We'll see.

In the marine industry for use on aluminum in a saltwater environment, which is pretty darm harsh & corrosive, Woody Wax and Rupp aluminum polish have great reputations. Both also are an 'apply & wipe' product.

Dale ( or any other respondents)..My "new" G3 is camo-finished from the factory. The camo finish is pretty thin, and I have scratched it pretty easily in a number of places already. It is easy enough to re-dab some camo on it, though.

Should I be applying wax or anything else before I take her back to the salt this Winter? She will be kept in a covered boat barn when she isn't fishing.

Right now, here in TN, she is kept outside. Either uncovered on a waterfront dock, or covered on the boat yard's gravel lot.

richg99

richg99 said:

Dale ( or any other respondents)..My "new" G3 is camo-finished from the factory. The camo finish is pretty thin, and I have scratched it pretty easily in a number of places already. It is easy enough to re-dab some camo on it, though.

Should I be applying wax or anything else before I take her back to the salt this Winter? She will be kept in a covered boat barn when she isn't fishing.

Right now, here in TN, she is kept outside. Either uncovered on a waterfront dock, or covered on the boat yard's gravel lot.

richg99

Click to expand...

What's the deal with the crummy paint jobs? I am currently repainting the gunwales of my Tracker grizzly because of the very thin and not durable paint. Is this some cost saving measure at the factory, or that a jon boat, considered as a utility boat, doesn't merit a decent paint job?

my grizzly had crap paint aswell. when i made the rear deck i used steel wool and a scotch brite pad to prep before i primed and painted. turned out very well and held up WAY better than the paint that came on it.

Well, I wound up with the camo paint job simply because it was the only boat they had that fit my needs, paint or no.

My prior 20 year old Lowe had a silver finish that I think was mostly just bare metal. It was stained and didn't look too good when I trashed it. But, it was 20years old, too.

I'm more of a "function over form" kind of guy. If she fishes well, how she looks doesn't bother me too much.

richg99