Help ID this beat up tin boat?

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amuller
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Joined: 17 Jul 2016, 16:24

Help ID this beat up tin boat?

Post by amuller » 17 Jul 2016, 17:15

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This boat measures about 11' 7". Transom wood all gone but I think I can see where it goes. No data plate that I can find. Kind of the image of a beat up tin boat. Can anyone, from the pics, tell me who likely made this boat, and approximately when and where a data plate might be?

Thanks for any guidance.

Alan
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KMixson
Posts: 2119
Joined: 25 Apr 2008, 16:54
Location: North Charleston S.C.

Help ID this beat up tin boat?

Post by KMixson » 17 Jul 2016, 17:19

Not sure, but when I was young we had a Sears 12' boat that looked a lot like that. Someone on here could tell you more about it than I could probably.

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DaleH
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Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
Location: Eastern Mass

Help ID this beat up tin boat?

Post by DaleH » 17 Jul 2016, 18:49

With that 'tumblehome' feature to the stern, I too would say it is a Sears skiff. The round holes in the stern corner plates and arc feature to bow plare look identical too.

I found it to be 'lightly' built for a tin boat of their size and if recall correctly, they are only rated to 8hp. I have the factory specs sheet from the early 70s somewhere ...

The one I had was a tippy canoe! Pond/lake boats only IMHO. I replaced it with a late 80s Starcraft 12' tin and the difference is night and day! My new one being 50-60-pounds heavier, beamier, taller gunnels, stronger construction and a significantly more stable V-hull.
#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548

amuller
Posts: 8
Joined: 17 Jul 2016, 16:24

Help ID this beat up tin boat?

Post by amuller » 18 Jul 2016, 06:18

Thanks. Consensus here and elsewhere seems to be "Sears," possibly including Elgin and/or Sea Nymph. The wt and dimensions correspond pretty well to Sears "semi-vee" boats from the 50s, 60s, 70s. Noticeable is the apparent absence of a drain plug in original form and that the spray rails begin several feet back from the bow.

A key limitation of all these is the load rating of 500 pounds or less. Not enough for two adults, a motor, tank of gas, and some gear. good for a single adult, a couple of kids, cartopping.

Alan

amuller
Posts: 8
Joined: 17 Jul 2016, 16:24

Help ID this beat up tin boat? (transom work)

Post by amuller » 18 Jul 2016, 11:56

Well, the boat is looking better with some layers of paint coming off, but I would be surprised if it didn't have some leaks.

Now, as background, in theory I'm an A & P, and though I never really worked at the trade, I do know how to deal with rivets and aluminum. But, I no longer have the tools around. Nor do I want to use lung-cancer-causing chromate primers.

All this boat needs is a piece of ply on the inside (rectangular) and the outside (typical keystone shape). From the hole sizes I judge that 3/16 or #12 machine screws held the sandwich together.

This boat has lived it's life in the Midwest, likely never seen salt or brackish water and not likely to. Apparently it was originally thinly painted a dark green but most of that is long gone.

So, questions:

I have some ply that was used for formwork by people building a concrete wall. It's seven ply, 3/4" or 23/32" thick, and has some sort of paperish overlay on one side. It seems pretty good quality ply. Anyone used this for transom material? Have an opinion on it?

What's the best way to treat the wood, and the aluminum/wood faying surfaces? I see all sorts of advice, from epoxy or polyester resins, to spar varnish, to POR15 (which I understand to be a moisture-curing urethane base product). This boat doesn't justify a significant investment of time and/or money, but I don't want to do a crude job either.

Thanks for any guidance.

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