Raising a transom

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Colorado1135
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Joined: 06 May 2015, 08:38
Location: South Dakota

Raising a transom

Post by Colorado1135 » 22 Jul 2016, 23:25

I have a deep V Smokercraft 14' I picked up recently. I was told it was a 17' before I went to look at it, but it was not the case. either way it followed me home cause I had the right ball on the truck and it was right there anyway.
long story short I really dig the deep hull, but that short shaft transom is killin me to look at. I haven't taken it out in the water yet because of it. before folks tell me to put splash guards and a jacking plate on it just know one thing. I considered it, even have a jacking plate, but I just can't bring myself to muddle it up with all the extra stuff like that. so I've decided to raise the transom to where it should have been from the get go. only thing is I'm not exactly sure how to do it. so I'm looking for advice from guys who have done it, or with a real world experience on how it should be done. not looking for speculation or just anybody putting in their best guess at $.02. I was thinking some type of laminate one piece wood, cutting the "notch" in the back for the right height. then folding aluminum over it and cutting it to match the profile, then replacing the original cap and cutting it to fit at the angled parts. or just cutting a front and back that mate up under the cap, that might be easier. it sure seems easier to type it than do it, so I'm looking for someones take that has done something like this before. is there anything in my thinking that would be no bueno to try? here's a bad pic for a little reference.

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RazorBaits
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Johnny
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Raising a transom

Post by Johnny » 23 Jul 2016, 09:12

Colorado - I too am Old School like yourself when it
comes "to muddleing it up with all the extra stuff like that"

I could never bring myself to use a jack plate (of any kind).
I am sure the thought of removing the existing transom skin has
crossed your mind, but, as Dale says, ummmmmm never again LOL.
In my world, I would probably replace the existing 1.5" wood and make
a new square tubing and sheet metal transom to the desired height .....
when you are satisfied with the look of the new transom, install a new filler piece
to fill in the new material area on the outside to bring it flush - - - then, make a complete new outside
skin to cover the entire transom area just for cosmetics (and some support)
and rivet that to the existing material and make a top cap to fit.
Then, you will have a rot-free transom that will look factory original from the outside.
Being EXTREMELY attentative to the metal mating surfaces that you can never
get back to once they are sealed together - - - such as priming, painting, preservation, etc.

jus my Dos Centavos






.
http://www.tinboats.net/how-to-build-a-transom/
http://www.tinboats.net/varnish-vs-polyurethane/
All about Primers = http://www.tinboats.net/primer-and-paint-basics/
Paint, Thinners and Applications = http://www.paintingforpainters.com/

1959 Crestliner Commodore 14'
1959 Lone Star Malibu 14'
1958 Johnson 35 RDE-19 Sea Horse
1958 Johnson 35 RDS-20 Super Sea Horse

PBRMINER
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Joined: 10 Oct 2009, 23:53
Location: Upper Michigan

Raising a transom

Post by PBRMINER » 23 Jul 2016, 15:59

id just get a short shaft and run it as it was designed.... lots of work to do it RIGHT and unsafe to half-a$$ it IMO.....
Current Rig: 1978 Lund 315 Deluxe- Johnson Seahorse 35 / Motorguide Bow Mount/ Humminbird Helix5 GPS (Console) Lowrance X50DS (Bow)

Al U Minium
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Raising a transom

Post by Al U Minium » 23 Jul 2016, 16:02

The stern in my Mirrocraft has a cut out for a short shaft outboard. I use it in deepwater offshore and want all the free board I can get. I removed the wood from the stern and replaced it with 2 pieces of plywood without the cutout. I used a long shaft outboard from then on. That little bit of area occupying the space of the cutout with not be compromised by not having aluminum all the way to the top. Just be sure the wood is a good fit and well bolted into the stern. Very nice deep hull on your new boat, keep that free board and be safe.
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Colorado1135
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Location: South Dakota

Raising a transom

Post by Colorado1135 » 23 Jul 2016, 19:07

Dittos Johnny and Al u minium! that's exactly what I'm thinking, right now it feels like its a 5 gallon bucket with half a side cut off. Here are some more pictures showing how deep it is, I'll be doing a full trick out job on the inside more so than my last one. not sure if I'll do a livewell or not, sometimes it would be really handy, but I know they have their downsides. I really wish it was a 16' or longer, but oh well.

Al, you got any pics of it finished? I'm liking the plywood idea. I think I can salvage the cap strip andcut it to fit and have the creases at the corners and seal them off, then put an adhesive/sealer on the wood before I secure it . it will be stored indoors mostly, so I'm not too worried about constant exposure.

Image

Image
Beware of any old man in a profession where one usually dies young.

Al U Minium
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Raising a transom

Post by Al U Minium » 23 Jul 2016, 21:10

I don't have any pictures of mine I can find right now and I am doing a complete rebuild at the moment but I do have a catalog picture of it without the cutout. You don't need a cover cap of aluminum but you can make one. Consider ripping a 1/4" slice of hardwood and gluing it onto the edge of the plywood. Lots of options.
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DaleH
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Raising a transom

Post by DaleH » 23 Jul 2016, 21:20

FWIW as Johnny said, I put in complete NEW inner & outer skins - never again, haha - but I also 'boxed in the OB tighter AND raised the transom height outside of the transom to be full height across, side to side. As far as boxing the motor in ... there's no way you need that amount of room around an OB motor.

Looking at the picture attached of my new transom, besides the new skins, you can see the new top cap installed, that is simply 1-1/2" channel aluminum, bent to form the new "U"-shaped cut-out. Very simple to execute ... if you plan it out ahead of time.

When I bent the aluminum channel, I put in one 45-degree cut where I needed it, then would slowly bend the channel and see where I needed to remove material to form as close/tight a 90-degree 'inside' corner as I needed. Again, w/ a little planning and working to what was needed - versus acting in pure haste or in a hurry - and it was simple and came out great.
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image.jpeg
image.jpeg (45.77 KiB) Viewed 1066 times
#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548

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Colorado1135
Posts: 75
Joined: 06 May 2015, 08:38
Location: South Dakota

Raising a transom

Post by Colorado1135 » 23 Jul 2016, 22:00

Dale, that is awesome! looks exactly like I want to do. I was thinking of keeping the swooping bend because that's what it had, but your idea makes a lot more sense! it would be a lot easier for all the cuts to just notch it for the long shaft and do 90's.

Thank you for your input! that's exactly the kind of thing I was looking for
Beware of any old man in a profession where one usually dies young.

Gotem
Posts: 122
Joined: 31 Aug 2012, 23:49

Raising a transom

Post by Gotem » 26 Jul 2016, 09:01

I saw a bait shop that had a bunch of long shaft motors attached to boats that take short shafts. He had bolted a 2x8 board across the back and caulked the seams. It was not pretty, but it I guess it worked.

FYI: That joker went out of busisness.

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perchjerker
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Location: Dearborn, Manton Michigan

Raising a transom

Post by perchjerker » 26 Jul 2016, 09:03

I would try the boat as is before hacking into it

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Colorado1135
Posts: 75
Joined: 06 May 2015, 08:38
Location: South Dakota

Raising a transom

Post by Colorado1135 » 29 Jul 2016, 10:22

perchjerker wrote:I would try the boat as is before hacking into it
I won't be "hacking" into anything, simply removing the old transom and raising it to get more freeboard in the stern.

I have a short shaft Lund that is 14' already. when the wind blows up on the lake and the waves get rough it would take on water without some creative maneuvering. the whole reason I purchased this boat was to raise the transom.

I'm looking for advice and maybe pictures on how some other guys have done it is all. I'm not debating if it should be done, just looking for the best method. I probably should have been clearer in my OP
Beware of any old man in a profession where one usually dies young.

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DaleH
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Raising a transom

Post by DaleH » 29 Jul 2016, 10:34

Al U Minium wrote:The stern in my Mirrocraft has a cut out for a short shaft outboard. I removed the wood from the stern and replaced it with 2 pieces of plywood without the cutout. I used a long shaft outboard from then on. That little bit of area occupying the space of the cutout with not be compromised by not having aluminum all the way to the top. Just be sure the wood is a good fit and well bolted into the stern.
Colorado1135 - I think this tells you all you need to know ...

If anything, I would just make sure that the top edge of the aluminum is well affixed and sealed to the new transom coring. Check out my post on that West Systems 'G-Flex' flexible epoxy, a kit enough to help do what you need (less sealing the new transom wood) is $20 or less.
#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548

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