Fixing a 1/2" hole?

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Scott85

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I'm looking an 18' jon with trailer for $500 bucks. Both have clean titles and both have been sitting for 11 years. The boat has 3 1/2" holes. It's 2 and 1/2 hours away, so is this worth the drive? How hard is it for a professional welder to fix these holes?


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DaleH said:
Where are the holes located? Above or below the waterline? Any idea how they got there?
I'm not sure I'm waiting for pictures and the boat was owned by a city so I'm assuming it was used to work on the water.


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I repaired several 3/8" and 1/2" holes in my transom above the water line by taking a 5/8" countersink bit to bevel both sides of hole. Then I made 1.25" patches from .025 thick aluminum. Back buttered the patches with JB weld and used masking tape to hold the patch in place. I put more jb weld in the other side of the hole and covered with masking tape. Then I used a 2 screw wood clamp to apply pressure to the patch. After the jb weld cures sand smooth.
 
me i would weld it up, but I own a weld shop,,a lot would depend where and how easy it is to get too,,,, if you can get to the back side/inside would probably be best to put a patch/ backup on the insyde then weld it from the outside, a 1/2'' hole is not that easy to just fill up with weld besides it will look a lot better from the inside and it well be able to be ground flat on the outside and still have the strength to hold up,,,If you were to bring it to our shop it might be able to get done for $50 of less if it was all cleaned up ready to weld inside and out....

getting the boat for 500 sounds like a good deal and boat looks like its worth doing it right the 1st time,,,,,start putting glue on it going to make it real hard and expensive to go back and have it welded

boat looks like it may be a older g3, back in the day g3 was using treated wood for the transom and the had problems with the transom being eaten up from the treated wood,,,, take a good look and make sure its not looking like swiss cheese/any corrosion
 
I removed the factory livewell and plastic through hull fittings on my boat leaving two 3/4" holes below the waterline. I sandwiched the hull between 5200, large rubber washers, large stainless fender washers, smaller flat stainless washers along with 1/4" stainless bolts and nylon locking nuts. Almost 2 years, has not leaked a drop and purchased everything at Lowes off the shelf.
 
So got the pictures. All the holes are in the bottom of the boat.
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Is it still worth it?


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Hard to tell from the picture, but my guess is that one is an old rivet hole. If they are all the same it's an easy fix. Just replace with the appropriate sized solid rivets. Before making the trip though, I would get some pictures of the bottom of the hull to determine if, and how bad, the bottom of the hull is beat up. That looks like a nice open hull to do pretty much anything you want.
 
BigTerp said:
Hard to tell from the picture, but my guess is that one is an old rivet hole. If they are all the same it's an easy fix. Just replace with the appropriate sized solid rivets. Before making the trip though, I would get some pictures of the bottom of the hull to determine if, and how bad, the bottom of the hull is beat up. That looks like a nice open hull to do pretty much anything you want.
they are about 1/2" holes so they aren't rivets.


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lckstckn2smknbrls said:
Mig or Tig weld.
if everyone thinks it a deal I will get the boat and take it to a welder so they can tig weld it.


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I can't figure out what those holes were for but they certainly look carefully placed and intentional. Strange.

I still think $500 is a deal. In my area the trailer would fetch close to that alone.
 
jethro said:
I can't figure out what those holes were for but they certainly look carefully placed and intentional. Strange.

I still think $500 is a deal. In my area the trailer would fetch close to that alone.

It was purchased at a city auction, so maybe it was a work boat and they had something mounted it to it.


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jethro said:
I can't figure out what those holes were for but they certainly look carefully placed and intentional. Strange.

I still think $500 is a deal. In my area the trailer would fetch close to that alone.


yep or more and 30 cents a pound for scrap aluminum :cry: ,,,,, ya know still cant see the holes in that pic :? ,,,,,,,,,,, that pic looks even more like a G3 but they all kinda look a like,,back in the day g3 has had to replace a lot of boats because of corroded transoms/hulls from pressure treated wood,,, ya know the brand of boat????
 
Given your distance from the seller, I'd be worried that the trailer/tires/wheels/axle/bearings etc. won't be in good enough shape for you to haul it home. Not sure what you can do about that from long distance.

If it was close enough, or if someone could get you some measurements, then you could go to Harbor Freight/Northern tool , etc. and buy a new axle with wheels and everything. You might still run into an issue trying to get the old one off.

????

Hope it works out for you. richg99
 
richg99 said:
Given your distance from the seller, I'd be worried that the trailer/tires/wheels/axle/bearings etc. won't be in good enough shape for you to haul it home. Not sure what you can do about that from long distance.

If it was close enough, or if someone could get you some measurements, then you could go to Harbor Freight/Northern tool , etc. and buy a new axle with wheels and everything. You might still run into an issue trying to get the old one off.

????

Hope it works out for you. richg99

My plan is to check out the boat if I do decide to get it I'll pump up the trailer and go to the tractor supply and replace the tire and wheels and repack the bearing in the parking lot.


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