Arkansas traveler

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Burrman
Posts: 6
Joined: 23 Aug 2016, 19:01
Location: Akron.Ohio

Arkansas traveler

Post by Burrman » 25 Aug 2016, 21:08

Oh my goodness, what a beautiful boat, I can only hope mine comes out half as nice.

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JMichael
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Joined: 19 Jan 2012, 07:44
Location: Northeast Arkansas

Arkansas traveler

Post by JMichael » 26 Aug 2016, 08:01

Johnny wrote:The brass flange style deck drain is readily available at
Big Box Marine Stores, E-Bay, some hardware stores,
I have gotten 3 from Bass Pro and they work well.
drain.jpg
the hole is the standard 1/2" pipe thread.
Some places sell just the brass plug for $14 bucks - rediculous !!
commonly $4.00 at Lowe's and Home Depot. [for the same plug].
The biggest reasons I'd plug that hole and go with the more modern design of the plug in the transom.
1. You don't need a wrench to remove the plug, it's easily removed with just your fingers. 2. With the transom plug, you can remove it once the boat is on plane and it acts like a vacuum and sucks all the water out of the boat if you happened to get caught in the rain, or are having issues with some leaks.

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enginerd
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Joined: 20 Jun 2016, 23:10
Location: Bellevue, WA

Arkansas traveler

Post by enginerd » 26 Aug 2016, 13:25

Additionally, you have the problem of galvanic action between the brass garboard drain and the aluminum hull. I think I would plug that hole and install a tradition bilge plug in the transom. There are some threads here discussing installing the press sleeve for a bilge plug.

I don't know about removing a bilge plug on plane to pull water out; that seems like a risky proposition. As an alternative, my dad had one of these duck-bill drain plugs on his 16-ft Baja ski-boat and it did roughly the same thing (https://www.amazon.com/Atlantis-Bilge-F ... ref=sr_1_1) and you don't have to worry about taking out and replacing a plug.
"Fair Winds and Following Seas."
-Brent

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Pappy
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Post by Pappy » 26 Aug 2016, 18:15

I would also go with the vertically mounted standard transom plug. There is or was a guy that had some early Alumacraft styled threaded bung and plugs machined and was selling them. That would be a very nice set-up. Would have to be welded in but that's not a big issue. I bought and installed one. Will see if I can find that source again if you think you would like to go that way.
But.....to make the existing hull plug work a simple clamshell in front of the plug, on the bottom of the boat will allow the boat to drain while on plane. All early Orlando Clippers had this set up and it was pretty slick!
As far as galvanic corrosion goes brass and aluminum are not that far apart on the galvanic scale so that won't be much of an issue. Also am assuming
your boat will not spend seasons in the water vs. on a trailer when not in use.

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Johnny
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Post by Johnny » 27 Aug 2016, 09:43

Like Pappy described - I have never seen them for sale.
but - with a little metalsmithing skills and a ball peen hammer,
I see how they would be easy to make. ( if you wanted to go in that direction ).
Drain Plug.jpg
Clipper Drain.jpg
Clipper Drain.jpg (19.35 KiB) Viewed 495 times









.
http://www.tinboats.net/how-to-build-a-transom/
http://www.tinboats.net/varnish-vs-polyurethane/
All about Primers = http://www.tinboats.net/primer-and-paint-basics/
Paint, Thinners and Applications = http://www.paintingforpainters.com/

1959 Crestliner Commodore 14'
1959 Lone Star Malibu 14'
1958 Johnson 35 RDE-19 Sea Horse
1958 Johnson 35 RDS-20 Super Sea Horse

JMichael
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Location: Northeast Arkansas

Arkansas traveler

Post by JMichael » 28 Aug 2016, 01:33

enginerd wrote: I don't know about removing a bilge plug on plane to pull water out; that seems like a risky proposition.
I don't remember who actually showed me that trick, but all my friends and I use it quite often. It does make you worry a bit the first time or two that you do it but you soon realize that you can slow down pretty slow before the water actually stops flowing out and starts flowing in. But as long as you keep the plug in one hand and don't have a lot of crap in the way of putting the plug back in, it's really hard to screw up the process. And if you don't have a bilge pump, or want to get every last bit of water out, it's pretty slick. I'll actually slow down enough that my bow rises pretty good so every last bit of water runs to the back of the boat to get sucked out.

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uncndl1
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Joined: 13 Jan 2016, 23:11
Location: Upstate NY

Re: Arkansas traveler

Post by uncndl1 » 28 Aug 2016, 18:07

I had an old 50's Cadillac aluminum boat back on the Columbia River in Tri-Cities WA, and tried that out once.
I had trouble getting the plug back in properly and took on quite a bit of water. Don't recommend trying it out too far from shore. I'll never forget that day

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1970 Wards sea king Aluminum & 1999 Johnson 15 hp 2 stroke
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Johnny
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Post by Johnny » 28 Aug 2016, 21:26

I think the technique of draining the water while underway
was meant for when two people are on board . . . . not alone.
Personally, I would never try it (alone) . . . my boats are remote steer
meaning that I would have to get up and go to the stern with
nobody driving the boat - - - could turn out bad.
I can see how it may be cumbersome for the tiller steer if the boater
does not have experience doing it.
http://www.tinboats.net/how-to-build-a-transom/
http://www.tinboats.net/varnish-vs-polyurethane/
All about Primers = http://www.tinboats.net/primer-and-paint-basics/
Paint, Thinners and Applications = http://www.paintingforpainters.com/

1959 Crestliner Commodore 14'
1959 Lone Star Malibu 14'
1958 Johnson 35 RDE-19 Sea Horse
1958 Johnson 35 RDS-20 Super Sea Horse

JMichael
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Joined: 19 Jan 2012, 07:44
Location: Northeast Arkansas

Arkansas traveler

Post by JMichael » 28 Aug 2016, 23:24

Yea, no way I'd ever try it with remote steer, but with tiller, I do it all the time and have never had a problem with it. When I'm at the lake where I've got plenty of room, I'll even do wide right hand turns so the water runs to the side the plug is on, but in the rivers, it's straight only. But, to each his own.

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