Acetone wash?

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lvhish486

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I have a 14 ft. Deep V-hull that I'm restoring. I filled the hull with water and noticed 3 small leaks and sealed them from the interior with Gluv-it and flipped her and sealed the exterior with epoxy putty.

I'm looking to paint the interior before starting my deck. The original (I think) paint is still on the hull and it looks like the previous owner just spray painted the gunwales.

Should I wipe it down with Acetone before painting it? Does this respond badly to Gluv-it? I'm not planning on primer it as most of it will be covered when I put the deck on. The gunwales will be the only thing visible. I'm also throwing around the idea of making the deck removable.
 
DaleH said:
A solvent wash won't hurt anything, but if you have bare aluminum, a vinegar wash is ideal as it will acid etch the aluminum.
do you have to do the vinegar wash if you use self etching primer.


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Scott85 said:
do you have to do the vinegar wash if you use self etching primer.
Well you should wipe down any surface prior to finishing, Plus the vinegar wash is cheaper than acetone, is a safer chemical for handling (should wear gloves with volatile solvents like acetone), and it works great!

So - no - you don't need to use vinegar, but I myself would never prime anything without working on a properly prepared surface. In painting or finishing - all the work (and long term results) are highly dependent on the effort put into the prep. Heck just ask Johnny!
 
I was talking about after the acetone wash down. So my plan for my boat is a general degreaser followed by sanding the acetone wash down then the primer and paint.


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I put Gluvit on all my seams and did a wipe down with acetone before painting with no ill effects. I used both acetone and vinegar. I like acetone because it evaporates quickly and gives me a good feeling about getting all potential contaminants off the surface. I did the vinegar wash (half and half white vinegar and water) just for etching, and then rinsed it with soap and water before painting.
 
From my personal (50 year) experience, hot solvents such as acetone, lacquer thinner,
xylene, etc will lift or degrade existing coatings ...... if the existing coating is not in the
plan to be removed completely, I would go with the common degreasers to clean
then proceed to "Read, Understand and Follow" the instructions on the label
of any subsequent products that will be used.

In my experience, vinegar will not lift dried paint with a quick wash and rinse.
All it does is clean and very slightly "etch" the bare metal surface. It will do nothing
to the metal that is covered with grease or paint, only clean it.
Self Etching Primer is an animal in a totally different pasture.
It will lift, tunnel and creep under existing coatings that will give you fits down the road.
You have not given enough information as to the condition of the metal, are there any
existing coatings involved, above or below the waterline, yada yada yada.......

bottom line - READ, UNDERSTAND and FOLLOW the directions for the products you use.
 
Johnny said:
From my personal (50 year) experience, hot solvents such as acetone, lacquer thinner,
xylene, etc will lift or degrade existing coatings ...... if the existing coating is not in the
plan to be removed completely, I would go with the common degreasers to clean
then proceed to "Read, Understand and Follow" the instructions on the label
of any subsequent products that will be used.

In my experience, vinegar will not lift dried paint with a quick wash and rinse.
All it does is clean and very slightly "etch" the bare metal surface. It will do nothing
to the metal that is covered with grease or paint, only clean it.
Self Etching Primer is an animal in a totally different pasture.
It will lift, tunnel and creep under existing coatings that will give you fits down the road.
You have not given enough information as to the condition of the metal, are there any
existing coatings involved, above or below the waterline, yada yada yada.......

bottom line - READ, UNDERSTAND and FOLLOW the directions for the products you use.
so what would you do with a boat that has bare spot where aluminum is showing?


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in MY world ?? Just to cover a bald spot - - -
I would feather the edges with 320 grit paper.
etch with vinegar or OSPHO - I do not dilute 50/50.
brush on some latex based aluminum primer,
then paint with the top coat.
If you use the "self etching" primer, you run the
inherent risk of the primer worming its way under existing paint
only to cause you problems later on down the creek.

I will be going through this episode in a few weeks when
I can find space to turn my boat over.
CL.JPG
This is Rust-Oleum white oil enamel applied over
latex exterior enamel - 4 years old. No primer, just bleach n paint.
You can see how the latex has some mildew on it under the layers.
which is typical of certain latex paints........
I will rough sand the scaling parts, bleach the whole boat.
smooth sand with 220/320 grit wet paper.
brush on a coat of oil primer like KILZ or BullsEye.
I am painting over existing paint, not much bare metal.
being in Central Florida, we have to modify our paints
according to the manufacturer's suggestions on the label.

Don't over think it !! it is a BOAT !! Not your grandmothers kitchen table.

for an education on primers, check out Primer and Paint Basics
https://www.tinboats.net/primer-and-paint-basics/
 
66b941d2655f99d66ff18962942b4950.jpg
you can see the bare spots, the boat was left out in the weather and was filled full of leaves sticks water and everything else. It sat like that for 2 years. I'm using Parker duck boat paint and using a HVLP Wagner spray gun. The outside of the boat is in much shape then the inside.


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Scott, it looks like mine is similar to yours. Paint still attached, not flaking or peeling. I was planning on just doing an acetone wash and going over parts near the transom and some of the bare metal with vinegar/water. But after reading Johnny's reply I think I'm going to just wash everything with vinegar/water.

I don't plan on removing the paint, just cleaning it to remove the dirt and grime and painting over it. Most of its going to be covered with my deck anyways.
 

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Johnny said:
Don't over think it !! it is a BOAT !! Not your grandmothers kitchen table.

LOL


Johnny has forgotten more about painting than the rest of us will ever know
 
somehow - get it power washed with a HIGH PRESSURE washer.
not that little 500 psi toy they sell on TV.
something above 3500psi - 5000 or more is better.
remove all grit, loose paint and junk with the power washer.
scrub with the automotive stiff nylon brush with a heavy duty automotive type degreaser
remove all remaining loose paint with a stainless wire brush - power wash again.
If you have a ShopVac, try to vacuum all the loose debris, ensure the drain rails are clear.
since this boat will see a lot of foot traffic - I would just spray the bare areas with a general
auto primer, (not self-etching) spray it with your Parker and forget it.

Read, Understand and Follow the instructions on any products you may use.
They are there for a reason.


if you want to wire brush everything down to bare metal and sand everything smooth,
that is strictly your decision...... your boat - your call.
Have Fun with it !!!!!!!!
 
onthewater102 said:
Johnny said:
Don't over think it !! it is a BOAT !! Not your grandmothers kitchen table.

This is true. I just want to make sure that the paint I use sticks and all of this isn't for nothing. HOWEVER... I'm taking the easy way out by not removing all the paint and putting the necessary prep in. Catch 22. I'm just going to do it and see what happens. have fun with it.
 
Scott85 said:
Thanks Johnny I really appreciate your input.


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Yes Johnny. Thank you very much for the input and knowledge. Let you know how it turns out.
 
Edit: to clarify primer vs bonding coat......

when I mentioned that "in my world" I would use KILZ, BullsEye or Zinsser primer,
If you read the literature on the products, they are "bonding coats" as well as
stain blockers for wood and drywall material (in the home).
On an aluminum surface with previous paint, it will provide a bonding coat for the
subsequent top coats.....
these products should NOT be confused with a corrosion preventative primer !!!!
in no way will they "prevent" corrosion..... only to assist the topcoats to bond with something else.
so, in retrospect, if you do have bare aluminum, you "could" scuff, sand, or rough up the surface,
vinegar or OSPHO treat the surface and apply a corrosion preventave primer first, if you want.
your call.

Read, Understand and Follow the instructions on any products you may use.
They are there for a reason.
 
I should have noted that I took my boat to bare aluminum before painting and didn't have to worry about acetone softening any existing paint.

I did not use the self etching spray primer, but opted for the RustOleum Aluminum Primer in spray cans, which I believe is intended for use with their (RustOleum) epoxy spray paints. I think that spray Aluminum Primer might work better over your old finish, as opposed the self etching. I then put on a layer of bonding primer prior to spraying three layers of top coat.
 
I'm looking to just use Rustoleum products for the interior (quick and easy), what kind of primer and paint would be best given the condition of my boat? The leaks have already been sealed with Gluvit and outside sealed with epoxy puddy.

This whole paint process is confusing #-o !

Trying to get this done this weekend so I can being the framing.
 

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