Protect edge of plywood

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grover

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I am putting the old timers formula on all surfaces of my plywood deck and floor. I know the edges of the plywood are the most vulnerable. Knowing that how about adding an edge trim, something pvc or aluminum. I could put a bead of silicone on the plywood edge, put the trim on and that would seal it and give it a finished look. I plan on some sort of rolled on product instead of carpet.

What do you think?
 
Water gets into everything, it would need to completely seal the edge in order to be more effective than just a bunch of layers of paint. I would not think it would be worth the effort.
 
for exterior plywood signs, signmakers will seal first with a
50/50 formula that could be a mix of any products like varnish or oil based primer.
then, 48 hours later, take a good "paintable" silicone free latex caulk and FORCE it into the edge grain
with your finger - pack it tight - let that cure according to directions on the product.
then, prime and paint the whole plywood panel.
The two that I have used with good success is the Loctite PolySeamSeal
and the DAP Alex acrylic latex 25 year caulk.


just one more way of "trying" to fight the elements.
 
Also know that most silicone products contain an acid as a base ingredient that corrodes aluminum. Unless the goop is expressly marked "safe for use on aluminum" ... don't use it.
 
Don't forget the holes for attaching, I cut my wood to fit and then went ahead and fastened it all down, then removed it and then painted it. I used epoxy and I taped the screw holes so they would fill with epoxy and would be sure to soak into the edge of the drilled out holes. that varnish mix would probably work just as well. I then had to re-drill the holes of course but I was sure that there was good penetration.
 
OP said: I plan on some sort of rolled on product instead of carpet.

Yes Rich, I am assuming the transom, deck or floor panels would be painted after preservation.
paint and varnish does not adhere well to silicone or siliconized caulk.
Thus my strong recommendation of the silicone-free Alex or PolySeamSeal caulk on anything that
will be coated down the line. This is for any household projects as well.

if the end result will be varnished natural wood, then Like Dale says,
epoxy the end grain. It will cure somewhat clear and give very adequate protection.

When making MDO sign panels, I used the method as described above using the caulk filler.
after the caulk is applied, you can smooth it down with your finger and when it cures, prime
and paint as you normally would. you can not tell it is plywood . . .

these two signs are examples of 3/4" MDO plywood..... they are meant to last for many years.
proper preservation and the correct primer and paint gives the customer assurance that they will.
I know this seems like a far stretch from boat decks, floors and transoms. But, the procedure of
preserving, priming and painting plywood is basically the same, regardless of how the end product
is used.
 

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