for those of you that are considering using that spray tar junk called FlexSeal and BedLiner.
That will work for you - for awhile !!!!!
That stuff is a BANDAID - not a long time fix.
FlexSeal and BedLiner will NOT "repair" a leaking seam (for long).
from a builders standpoint, the leaking issue must be properly
addressed firsthand. Either replace or rebuck the rivets and seal the seams
with the appropriate sealer: such as G/Flex 650, Gluvit, Coat-It, etc.
some type of sealer that will seap into the seams to make a bond as well as seal it.
WHEN (not if) it comes time to remove that spray tar junk, here is how to do it.
Tools needed: propane flame thrower, wire brush, wood chisel, putty knife and LOTS of patience.
The handheld MAP propane torch will work for small sections.... I am doing 14 feet.
206 rivets down just that one seam (412 both sides) and most of them must be replaced.
AFTER the FlexSeal, BedLiner and House Caulk is removed.
The hand wire brush works to get the melted stuff off - a rotary wire brush in a drill will finish it up,
That will work for you - for awhile !!!!!
That stuff is a BANDAID - not a long time fix.
FlexSeal and BedLiner will NOT "repair" a leaking seam (for long).
from a builders standpoint, the leaking issue must be properly
addressed firsthand. Either replace or rebuck the rivets and seal the seams
with the appropriate sealer: such as G/Flex 650, Gluvit, Coat-It, etc.
some type of sealer that will seap into the seams to make a bond as well as seal it.
WHEN (not if) it comes time to remove that spray tar junk, here is how to do it.
Tools needed: propane flame thrower, wire brush, wood chisel, putty knife and LOTS of patience.
The handheld MAP propane torch will work for small sections.... I am doing 14 feet.
206 rivets down just that one seam (412 both sides) and most of them must be replaced.
AFTER the FlexSeal, BedLiner and House Caulk is removed.
The hand wire brush works to get the melted stuff off - a rotary wire brush in a drill will finish it up,