Can I remove this?

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mrdrh99

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Hey guys, there is a thin piece of metal on the nose of the boat that is causing problems with mounting a bow mount tm. It's bowed up so that it causes the tm to sit at an angle. I'm thinking of removing it and replacing with a flat piece of glassed ply. Large enough to mount the tm, bow light and lowrance unit. Any thoughts?
 
I would use shims and spacers to level trolling motor and leave that bow plate alone, to keep its strength in its shape, light weight, and holds that bow together. that's my 2 cents worth
 
There shouldn't be any problem with removing it, especially since you are going to replace it with a similar (larger?) piece. As mentioned above just make sure it is very securely attached, both for security of the trolling motor, and any structural integrity that it provides the boat.
 
OK... So I think I'm going to do it. I assume I would just drill out the rivets. What would be the best way to re attach? I'm thinking 1/2" ply coated with fiberglass resin. Maybe a stick of L shaped aluminum and then attach the wood to that?
 
olefart said:
I would use shims and spacers to level trolling motor and leave that bow plate alone, to keep its strength in its shape, light weight, and holds that bow together. that's my 2 cents worth
+1 There should be a way to build up the sides with flat bar and then cover with a sheet to level the surface. 8) Manufacturer put that support there...id be really wary to remove.
 
This is what I did to mount a trolling motor on a curved bow. Bolted U-channel to the bow and then bolted a 3/4" chunk of carpeted plywood to the u-channel. Had to loosely assemble at first because of the curve and the only fussy part was I did bend one side of each chunk of u-channel to make the flat.
 

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ericman said:
This is what I did to mount a trolling motor on a curved bow. Bolted U-channel to the bow and then bolted a 3/4" chunk of carpeted plywood to the u-channel. Had to loosely assemble at first because of the curve and the only fussy part was I did bend one side of each chunk of u-channel to make the flat.
Nice! Just what i was thinking with way better execution.
 
ericman said:
This is what I did to mount a trolling motor on a curved bow. Bolted U-channel to the bow and then bolted a 3/4" chunk of carpeted plywood to the u-channel. Had to loosely assemble at first because of the curve and the only fussy part was I did bend one side of each chunk of u-channel to make the flat.
Do you have a build thread on that boat? Looks awesome!
 
I would personally go with Motorguide Isolator bolts. Im currently using them on my glass boat because the bow is curved.
 
Wyatt said:
I would personally go with Motorguide Isolator bolts. Im currently using them on my glass boat because the bow is curved.
I had never heard of those. How much play room do you have?
 
After looking at your picture again closely, it looks like your curve runs side to side. The Isolator bolts helped mine but my curve was running back to front so therefore my TM already sat even. Not too sure how much that actually help you. I would try shimming that outside edge before hacking the front of the boat up.
 
I know you guys like pictures, maybe these will help explain what I'm dealing with a little better

I have a 2x2 supporting the tm, kinda like a mock up
 
my Crestliner had the same raised/curved bow, so I know what you are experiencing.
I still stand by my prior approval of removing the entire existing metal and making
a new one - either with glassed plywood as you described or a new sheet of aluminum,
braced appropriately from underneath.............
when you end up with the flat bow surface, your TM should install as it was designed to.
in my very personal opinion, using shims and spacers to make something fit outside
of its intended design, looks just plain shoddy and may not perform as required.
my recommendation would be to use new aluminum so it will fit under your nose cap.
from what I see, plywood will not fit under or flush with the nose cap. (take that into consideration).

jus my Dos Centavos

and for Heaven's Sake, please trim those zip tie ends !!!!





.
 
Johnny said:
my Crestliner had the same raised/curved bow, so I know what you are experiencing.
I still stand by my prior approval of removing the entire existing metal and making
a new one - either with glassed plywood as you described or a new sheet of aluminum,
braced appropriately from underneath.............
when you end up with the flat bow surface, your TM should install as it was designed to.
in my very personal opinion, using shims and spacers to make something fit outside
of its intended design, looks just plain shoddy and may not perform as required.
my recommendation would be to use new aluminum so it will fit under your nose cap.
from what I see, plywood will not fit under or flush with the nose cap. (take that into consideration).

jus my Dos Centavos

and for Heaven's Sake, please trim those zip tie ends !!!!





.
I hear ya! Like I said, just a mock up Johnny!

And yes, I'm really thinking aluminum over the glassed ply.... We'll see...I think the aluminum will be easier to properly secure.
 
mrdrh99 said:
ericman said:
This is what I did to mount a trolling motor on a curved bow. Bolted U-channel to the bow and then bolted a 3/4" chunk of carpeted plywood to the u-channel. Had to loosely assemble at first because of the curve and the only fussy part was I did bend one side of each chunk of u-channel to make the flat.
Do you have a build thread on that boat? Looks awesome!


Yes.

https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=38701
 
OK, I'm drilling out the rivets and getting my wood cut tomorrow. I'm thinking 1/2 ply with a coat of resin, then paint. Nothing fancy, want to keep it as clean and simple as possible.
 
Took off the nose piece.... Fairly easy. Cut the new wood and the trolling motor fits like a glove. How would you guys support this? I'm going to use an epoxy adhesive and a few self tapping screws to secure.



 
personally, I don't see a reason to epoxy the plywood to the hull.
If you want to seal the wood to the metal, use a non-silicone caulk
such as Loctite window and door sealant..... won't shrink and remains flexible.
bunch of screws 4-6" apart. some 1-1/4" angle underneath the plywood
for support. waterproof both sides and all edges of the wood prior to installation
 

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