Eastwood Solid Rivet gun?

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Skipjack

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2016
Messages
47
Reaction score
1
Location
Maysville, AL
I'm looking to get a actual "Rivet Gun" and like everyone else I want the best for less! I want the rivet gun not a air hammer. From the looks of it online the cheapest is the Eastwood gun for $50 and specifically made for solid rivets. Anyone has this unit? Is it junk? Any feedback?

I want to do some custom work and don't need pro level tools as it's for some small jobs but I really want the right tool for the job that's why i'm staying away from going the air hammer route.
 
Not the input you were seeking ... but using the $20 air hammer from Haba Freight, powered by a big reservoir air compressor, I had set ~500 solid rivets easily, for when the equipment and operator were dialed in correctly, each was set with a single blast or series of hits or so - like a fast machine gun blast. I did my setups/tuning on scrap pieces and all 'for purpose' not only went extremely well - it was actually fun.

I honestly don't know how a more expensive tool would have helped me, but am sure open to more input!

Nowadays I don't have access to that huge air compressor borrowed from a friend, but my 12-year old girl re-riveted "her" 12' tin skiff using the same air hammer powered by a pancake 3.5 gallon air compressor. She watched me do a few, then did a dozen by herself, with me on the buck bar, of course.
 
I second the Harbor Freight air hammer. I got mine for around $15 and then purchased the appropriate size/style rivet setting tool to use with it. Probably $30 total for everything. Has set many, many solid rivets on my boat without any issues.
 
Johnny,

I looked at that exact combo and for the extra $30 I can get the actual gun for the job. What I need to know is the $50 Eastwood gun better or is it just a dialed down cheap air hammer...? Seems too good to be true when the other guns are $150 on up.

I'm not looking to cheap out on tools, I'd rather pay more now and get what I really need. From what I understand the rivet guns have a lower impulse and a progressive trigger allowing you to go the speed you need to set the rivets the way you want them. I know I can use a big hammer and a chunk of steel to smash rivets (done it before) but I want it to look "pretty". :)
 
Skipjack said:
From what I understand the rivet guns have a lower impulse and a progressive trigger allowing you to go the speed you need to set the rivets the way you want them ... I want it to look "pretty". :)
I get you ... but how much more prettier do you really need or think you'll get? And a $30 more tool ain't gonna make it look any better #-o IMHO, but hey, it's your $$. Now how the 'nut behind the trigger' adjusts and uses the tool, heck yes - that can make a HUGE difference!

FWIW for "my" tools and setup, 75 PSI was the magic number, may be quite different for a different hammer and air setup, or even rivet source. These were 1100F alloy from Jay-Cee rivets.

To me, the BIGGEST difference in tooling would be to be to make sure you buy the proper shape and size air tool (that impacts the rivet) for the rivet you are using. Here is a link to the proper brazier head tool for the common solid rivets we are using.

https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=41248
 

Attachments

  • Rivets2.jpg
    Rivets2.jpg
    31.7 KB · Views: 2,394
  • Rivets1.jpg
    Rivets1.jpg
    23.1 KB · Views: 2,394
Don't mean to high jack the thread but can you not just use a regular river tool? That use by hand? I'm wondering cause I'm new to this


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
bunyon_0341 said:
Don't mean to high jack the thread but can you not just use a regular river tool? That use by hand? I'm wondering cause I'm new to this


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Do you mean the tool for pop rivets?
 
Bunyun - yes, you can use a manual rivet tool with the appropriate
bucking bar. Many of us started out with a 5 pound sledge hammer head
for the anvil (bucking bar) hitting the rivet tail with a smaller ball peen hammer.
for just tightening up a few leaking rivets, this method works quite well.
if you want cosmetics, then you must use some kind of steel tool with
a dimple in it that closely matches the head of the rivet you are using so as not to deform the rivet.
setting rivets is not rocket science - even a 12 year old can do it !!!!
the air tool just makes the job go much quicker if you have 500 or a thousand
rivets to replace or set.

the Eastwood kit the OP SkipJack is referring to has been around for several years now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTmuFxEN1Mk&t=227s
since I already had 4 of the air hammers, clekos, and bucking bars, I only needed to
purchase the rivet tool from Northern Tools and a bag of rivets from Rivets on Line.
if you are new to setting rivets, there are many good videos on the good old YouTube.
with a little practice, you can become a very proficient riveter in a short period of time.
the initial investment of the proper tools can be a bit pricey - but that is only a one time purchase.
of course if you go with the pop rivets, that is a totally different technique with different tools.
Rosie.jpg
 
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
bunyon_0341 said:
Don't mean to high jack the thread but can you not just use a regular river tool? That use by hand? I'm wondering cause I'm new to this


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Do you mean the tool for pop rivets?
Yes I guess so, I want to modify my boat so I'm starting to dig on info, I know I will need to do some riveting but not much maybe a dozen or so is all


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You can get closed end rivets and seal them with 3M4200/5200. Harbor freight sells a larger rivet tool that can do up to 1/4" rivets.
 
Pop rivets work, but aren't very strong.

I went with pop rivets on some support brackets, now the heads are twisting off. So now I'm going to replace one by one with solid rivets. I just need to find a good assortment of lengths to get it right.
 
Good thread ya'll. I've been looking for a reason to build a good rivet kit lol. I know i have at least two working rivets above water so that easily justifies a set of applicable tools to the wife right?!? lol we'll see :D
 
thill said:
Pop rivets work, but aren't very strong.

I went with pop rivets on some support brackets, now the heads are twisting off. So now I'm going to replace one by one with solid rivets. I just need to find a good assortment of lengths to get it right.
Buy them long and cut/ grind them down to size it'll work just the same[emoji3]

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk
 
+1 on cutting them off. Solid rivet installation, imho, is an art like welding...not too difficult to learn but practice is needed to be really good. I had to show pretty good skills to earn my A&P license but haven't done it in a loong time. This kit looked nice and it comes with clecos too.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-solid-rivet-kit.html?fee=7&fep=50224&SRCCODE=PLA00020&product_id=20127&adpos=1o1&creative=83580266460&device=t&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=Cj0KEQiAwMLDBRDCh_r9sMvQ_88BEiQA6zuAQ2CVPOLFjH_0lOF4E2hmbRZiy3OSWjgRCp914r1rQ7IaAue98P8HAQ
 
I bought the Eastwood rivet gun kit when I started my Grumman V-hull build last year, solid rivet gun, melts rivets like butter. Seems to run very well on 50 psi, used it to set many 1/4' brazier heads and they smooth right out. takes alittle getting used to but after practicing on 5 or 10 you'll be a pro at it. Mine has paid for itself already.

IMG_2541.JPG

IMG_2638.JPG
 
Well done sir! I've been debating on picking up that Eastwood gun. Now after hearing this I just am.

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk
 

Latest posts

Top