Painting my Motor

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The10Man

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Location
Orlando, FL
Now that my motor is running good consistently, I figured I'd go ahead and paint it so that it looks good. Right now the paint is faded in multiple spots and the stickers on the cowling are cracked and faded.

I've never painted a motor before so all of this is new to me and I'll be learning as I go. I anticipate the engine cover being the easiest piece to prep and paint, just because it is some sort of polymer (at least I think it is) and there aren't any creases and crevices to prep like the mid and lower units.

The first thing I'm going to do is remove the stickers on the cowling and get a clean surface to work on.

I'm probably going to paint it the same or similar gray that was on it originally.

Below are some photos of my motor in its current condition. I'll provide updates as I work through this. Any advice that some of you may have would be appreciated.

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On any painting - many light coats will give you better results than heavy coats, especially when you try to cover all those "nooks and crannies" on the motor. Take your time and don't rush it.

All painting results redend on good prep, where more time/care should be spent on prep than painting.

Hood/Cowling - It is made of fiberglass. Bondo can be used to fill any gouges and wet-sanding will make the surface like new! Primer coat, then build up to the finish coat. Tip - Add clear gloss over the top and it will be beyootiful! I went further and bought one of those canvas covers ($12) that I keep on it when not in use (as my boats are moored out in the sun 24/7) and she looks as good as I re-sprayed her everytime I use - no sun damage/fading!

Motor - Clean off any old grease. Any bare aluminum spots should be cleaned well (vinegar wash) then zinc-chromate primed. Sand, prime ... paint. Take your time (light coats) when trying to cover all features.

How about coming back and posting the final painted motor :D ?
 
You'll discover that cheap rattle can paint is going to just peel right off in places that get covered with gas and oil no matter how well you prep it. It's ok if you just want to freshen up the cowling, but if you really want it to last go to NAPA and get a half pint of automotive enamel mixed up. It's indestructible and it looks great too... just use a disposable sprayer like a Preval. If you need help figuring that out I'm happy to talk you through it...

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So tonight I got all the stickers off. Some of those stickers were difficult to remove even with the heat gun.

Dale, thanks for the info about the cowling, I didn't know it was fiberglass. When I was trying to pull off the stickers I definitely scraped up some of the hood with the razor blade but based on what you said about being able to fill in the gouges with bondo I wasn't too conservative with the blade.

When you say clean the most with vinegar, do you mean mix it with water and dilute it, or just wipe it down with straight vinegar? Also, do you recommend using white vinegar for this or some other kind?

I don't have any reason to rush this so I plan on taking my time to get it right. I'll be sharing pics and will definitely share images of the finished product.

Shaugh thank you for the paint advice. I'll look into the costs of getting a disposable sprayer. I think Harbour Freight has them pretty cheap. Your motors and boats are like works of art. I can tell you are a craftsman and pay a lot of attention to detail. Even that camper/topper on the truck in that picture looks nice.

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Shaugh said:
You'll discover that cheap rattle can paint is going to just peel right off in places that get covered with gas and oil no matter how well you prep it. It's ok if you just want to freshen up the cowling, but if you really want it to last go to NAPA and get a half pint of automotive enamel mixed up. It's indestructible and it looks great too... just use a disposable sprayer like a Preval. If you need help figuring that out I'm happy to talk you through it...

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Shaugh, what year is that Johnson 18? I have a 1961 Evinrude 18 in pieces. (snapped the driveshaft 20 miles from the boat launch!) Have a new shaft and would like to rebuild it. The camper looks sweet. More pics please and LMAO at the chairs in the second boat. All it needs is a cigar lighter and a couple of nice standing lamps, maybe a maid...... Oh, and a bookcase!
 
The10Man,
Looks like you've got a good start going. Sounds like you know about how to do the body work to get the scratches and chips taken care of. Take your time and get it to the point where you can't even find a place that could use some more attention... a motor is a small thing... lot's easier to work on than cars... take your time and get it all.... The worst feeling is when you get done with something and then find a spot that you could have done a little more work on....

Cleaning is a big part of success... I usually just use cheap Walmart paint thinner or mineral spirits.... get a couple rolls of paper towels and go outside on a nice day and start splashing and rubbing... lots of thinner... lots of rubbing... get every spec of black crap off that you can find... take your time... you should have a small mountain of black paper towels when you get done... keep at it until you can't find a spot that needs more rubbing...

Get it clean and smooth and then we'll talk more about painting...

Preval sprayer:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Preval-9-oz-Complete-Spray-Gun-267/202533738

NAPA store paint: 2 part urethane.. about $25 for a pint... but worth it... when you're ready I'll talk you through what you need...
https://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/product-systems/finish1-automotive-refinish-products

looks like a 1999 motor ?
https://outboarddecalset.com/1999-2000-johnson-8-hp-decal-set.html


Stinkfoot,
I don't want to clog up 10man's thread too much... the Johnson is a 57... the Scott Atwater is a 53.... I've wanted to do build along threads but I always end up working faster than I can type :roll: ... I'll make a new thread and show some pictures of the boats I've done and the camper top....
 
I don't know about other NAPA stores - but the store that I use
has the automotive paint mixing program now.......
not only can you get your desired color to match, they can put it
into an aerosol rattle can for you !!!
also - the guy said he can add the clear coat into the aresol can paint which
would make it pretty convenient for quick touchups. I have not had a reason
to go that route yet but is an option for the next small job.
 
I've worked in a body shop for the last 10 years and have painted everything from wreck rebuilds, restorations to lawn furniture, and mailboxes (people want some crazy stuff painted). You got a good start by removing the stickers. Before you start any sanding or prep work wash the motor down and remove any grease or oil. Oil causes fish eyes and are frustrating to paint when you have this problem. I'd sand it with 320 grit and feather out any places it's peeling. You can use dolphin putty or spot putty for the spots you scraped with a razor. Bondo will work but has a thicker build then what you'll need. The spot putty allows you to skim those spots with little sanding needed to accomplish a primer ready finish. Once all the prep work is ready I like to use rubbing alcohol to remove any other oils that may have found its way onto the motor. If you don't have the option to use automotive primer and choose to use rattle can stuff then buy something that is sandable and has build. Do 2 good coats and let it dry. I can give you good advise if you run into any trouble or need help with something, but it'll be rewarding in the end.

Sent from my SM-G900R6 using Tapatalk
 
Crankbait said:
You can use dolphin putty or spot putty for the spots you scraped with a razor. Bondo will work but has a thicker build then what you'll need. The spot putty allows you to skim those spots with little sanding needed to accomplish a primer ready finish.
Never heard of 'dolphin' putty myself ... is that a trade name, manufacturer's name or such? Good to know! Sounds simpler to use than Bondo of Formula 27.
 
Dale and 10man, I used Dolphin Putty several years ago when painting my van.
it is not for a thick coat on vertical surfaces, (of which I found out the hard way).
but is a very good product when doing just a skimming coat after the major Bondo repairs.
it is great for filling rough sanding and razor blade accidents.
basically, it has the characteristics of thinned down Bondo.
https://youtu.be/uCstHX1_UiI





.
 
It's a brand of glazing putty... It's expensive stuff the pro's use over bondo type repairs. glazing putty is what you want for most small chips and scratches. It's a finer finishing material than bondo type fillers. less pinholes.. better adhesion...thinner build... finer edge blending... I'm a cheapskate so I use this..

https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-801-Professional-Glazing-Putty/dp/B004BYKICG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1483977252&sr=8-7&keywords=auto+body+glazing+putty

good movie..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgu0fqXJka0
 
Shaugh said:
It's a brand of glazing putty... It's expensive stuff the pro's use over bondo type repairs. glazing putty is what you want for most small chips and scratches. It's a finer finishing material than bondo type fillers. less pinholes.. better adhesion...thinner build... finer edge blending... I'm a cheapskate so I use

What he said, but this stuff hardens up fast so be ready.

Sent from my SM-G900R6 using Tapatalk
 
Thank you guys for all the tips, tricks, products and advice.

I was hoping to work on the motor more this past weekend but couldn't find the time and so yesterday I began the cleaning process. I was planning on doing the entire lower and mid section, but doing it correctly was more time consuming than I anticipated. After sitting down on a stool and getting super close to the motor I realized it wasn't going to be a quick job. The initial scrub was simple but there are so many nooks, crannies, and crevices for grease and oil to coat and cake up in. After about five minutes I grabbed for an old toothbrush to scrub some of the hard to reach areas that I couldn't get to with the paper towels. Then after about 15 minutes I went over to my work bench and got my set of picks and used them to really get deeper and pull out some of the caked up grease in some of the really narrow crevices.

I had to stop after about and hour and had only cleaned one side of the lower and mid section. My plan is to finish cleaning the other side of the motor today and then clean and sand the cowling the day after that.

Here is a quick shot of all the paper towels I've gone through so far. I'm sure there this pile will be three or four times bigger on a few days.

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ummmmm what are you going to do with all those towels ???
hopefully, you will put them outside uncovered to air dry
then - dispose of them as you see fit.
never - ever store solvent soaked and oily rags in a plastic box
inside your garage or house.

and oh yeah - when you get started cleaning an outboard,
you will find it can turn into a monster job rather quickly.
and painting over grease and grime is not a sin !!!
unless - you are restoring it completely like Shaugh did on his two examples,
which are drop dead gorgeous, I would not hesitate to paint over "some" grease
and grime. it will still look great - no matter what you do !!!

have you tried a citrus [water] based heavy duty degreaser/cleaner yet?
I have found that soaking Purple Power for a few hours and high pressure water rinse
will work much better than a solvent and paper towels.

and to prevent the buildup of the grease and grime in the future,
use the citrus based cleaner after each outing - when the residue is the weakest.
 
I agree with Johnny, water is probably the best, first weapon for a really dirty motor. A toothbrush and Fantastic spray is also very effective. He's right you'll be surprised how good a motor can look with fresh paint right over some of the dirty nooks and crannies. It's up to you how much time you want to put into it.

Remember it's an outside job... keep all that crap out of the house... you'll stay married longer that way too....
 
Ive been doing the cleaning in the garage and have had all the windows open as well as the large garage door. Also, I was sure to leave any of the rags outside.

None the less, I went out and got some of Purple Power citrus cleaner and cleaned the other side of the motor with that. While I was out I also got some of the Bondo brand spot putty that Shaugh suggested.

I looked for automotive primer but I could t find any, so I'll probably be going to NAPA or another automotive store in the next day or so.

Hopefully this evening I'll have the cowling cleaned and sanded and will have some pictures to share. .


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This stuff works good for me. you just want to put a thin coat on areas to even up the color and cover bare metal.

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Walmart carries it.. one of the most important jobs of primer is to even up the overall color where you've done body work etc. Most people don't realize how transparent paint is... primer helps you avoid the urge to pile on too much paint in darker areas because it didn't cover well enough. Just mist this stuff wherever you need to make the base a nice uniform color. That will make your top coats a lot easier...
 
Temperature is very important when you spray, 75 deg F is optimum, colder & it wants to run. Too hot & it orange peels.

Practice making a spray pattern on some cardboard before painting the motor.

I was taught to cover the border 1st, then go back & fill in the middle.

Use a good fresh respirator & goggles.

I would just mask off the steering gimbal area, it just gets greasy again anyway.
 

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