1962 FD-6 Steering Wheel

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skanders01

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I am looking for a picture (or used OEM!) of what t steering wheel on my Alumacraft FD-6 might have looked like. I don't think the chrome spoked with gold glittered wheel I bought with the boat is original equipment! :lol:

Thanks in advance for any input.

Kyle
 
Not that this is correct but look at steering wheels by a company called Kennier or kenier or something similar.
 
May have looked something like this. Be aware though that this boat is a few years older than yours.
You can simply Google "Vintage Alumacraft" if you want and find enough photos to get a good idea. Fiberglassics also has a good archive of photos in it to peruse.


 
Thanks for the reply. I only have two more questions...One, is this your boat? and two, what besides elbow grease did you use to get this boat so clean and shiny! Restoring a '62 FD-6 with half wide steering frame and removable aluminum bow cover; and I want mine to look like this...except for the floor that I will be painting with antiskid paint.
 
Sorry about the late reply. Forgot that I posted in this.

Yes, this is my boat. It is a 1954 Alumacraft Model R. 12' in length. I run it with either a 1957 Johnson 18hp on it or a 1954 Johnson 25hp on it.
It can be seen running and on the water in this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvKGt5jepVo

The boat was a mess when I got it.




I used a paint stripper made from soy beans! Available through Sherwin-Williams. Worked great and did not sizzle the skin off you.
After removing the paint I used an acid wash to clean the hull then started with common SOS pads on the hull.
The shiny side is after SOS pads. The other side is after the acid wash.





Inside was as it shows in the first set of pictures. After acid washing and SOS pads and a bunch of elbow grease it started looking pretty good.



I wanted to non-skid the floor back to original so I used these 3M pads and they are WONDERFUL to use. They cleaned around each and every crevice and rivet head easily.



Then I made the boat level on the trailer, filled it with water to the approx. level of the old non-skid paint mark and poured in more acid. This did two things.
One - etched a perfect paint line for taping
Two - etched the aluminum for paint.
If you do this step use the hose and running water under the surface of the water to stir in the acid. Any other method will create waves which will distort the perfect water line.
You can easily see the "Etch" line showing on the inside of the transom in this photo. Doing this was a great time saver. You can also see how well the 3M pads worked on the exposed rivet heads in this photo. No more wire brushes ever!!
I used marine Petit non-skid paint. This was in 2014 and it has held up perfectly.



I used the original transom wood as a template for the new wood and used the correct screws for fasteners as well. I did not use white oak. I used Cypress, which looks extremely close. I had a local mill locate a piece that was 1" thick for me and already dried. I then used a cork backing between the wood and the transom. Keeps engine "noise" a bit isolated and keeps the wood off the transom to keep it dry.



 
Thanks very much for taking the time to share this with me. It looks like a nice road map to follow on mine. What is the white round plastic/rubber comb looking thing?

Thanks, again.

Regards,
 
skanders01 said:
Thanks very much for taking the time to share this with me. It looks like a nice road map to follow on mine. What is the white round plastic/rubber comb looking thing?

Thanks, again.

Regards,

You are welcome!
Here is the information on the discs. There are many. I get them from a NAPA store.


https://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MIndustrial/Abrasives/Products/~/Bristle-Discs?N=7581639&rt=r3
 

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