Non slip painted floor in a tin boat

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Dowellz

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I'm nearly done stripping the bottom of my boat and soon I will be building the deck. Will update my build thread soon!

I'm trying to figure out if I should just do all carpet or just carpet on my casting decks and a non slip paint on the main floor. I've searched and searched but can't find any good pictures. I know the popular choice is vinyl flooring. But not sure if that's the route I wanna go. I mainly fish out of this boat and think that this durabak stuff might be the ticket for my floor. Plus you can get in lots of colors.
 
I'm afan of covering everything. Primarily it helps with sound dampening. I noticed a HUGE difference when I put wood on all surfaces, most with floatation under it.

IMG_5893.JPG
 
I'll offer my opinions here.

I have no idea what durabak is? But I do know what most non-skid paints that I've used are. Nautilex (vinyl) is nice too, but it gets warm...and is somewhat tougher to clean, though a lot easier than all carpeted boats.

Do you fish barefooted? I like to pull the shoes off when I'm on the water. On the decks, where I'm usually at, the paint gets hot out in the sun. I didn't see your location, but where I'm at (mid south), the temp of the decks can get hot enough to partially melt the soles of the tennis shoes, so going barefoot is a no-no. I have a piece of carpet that I put down on the deck when I'm out in the summertime, makes a HUGE difference. It's still warm but nowhere near uncomfortable. About like walking on a sandy beach. The carpet just sits on the deck. I don't glue it down or anything; it kinda fits around the edges well enough that it doesn't blow out during towing to/from the water. That and usually the tackle box sits on it. When it gets dirty or real slimy/bloody, I pull it out and power wash it. Easy. I've been thinking about hydroturf for the deck only, might be a nicer option since the carpet is getting ratty.
 
durabak is some good stuff, put it on my front deck of my boat about 8 years ago and still holding strong with no slip. cant find any that has peeled up. all about prep. its personal opinion but i love to just be able to wash it down and have it dry quick. with carpet you get it wet its there for the day and with hold stains and probably be replacing quicker.
 
A lot depends on what you actually want for your use.

I've painted sailboat seats; put on a second coat, and then sprinkled Sea Salt on while the second coat was tacky. Waited until everything dried up and washed the area with water. The Sea Salt dissolved, and left a very comfortable non-skid. Sea Salt has a much larger Grain size than regular salt, so it left nice little "pock marks".

I've also painted over an already painted deck, and then mixed Valspar non-skid material into the second coat. That approach was rougher than the Sea Salt method.

On my present 1652 G3 I screwed two 2x4 entryway carpets on. I like them very much. I can power wash them or remove and replace pretty easily.

richg99

p.s. You can try the Sea Salt and the non-skid easily enough with any old board, any old paint, some beach sand and you might have to buy a can of Sea Salt. That way, you'll know which you like best.
 

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Just added....

You can try the Sea Salt and the non-skid easily enough with any old board, any old paint, some beach sand and you might have to buy a can of Sea Salt. That way, you'll know which you like best.

richg99
 
I used a product called Asper Grit for my floor and decks. Real happy with how it turned out. Very durable as well. It's pretty grippy and has torn up my knuckles a time or two usually when unplugging my TM, but is comfortable with bare feet. I used the broadcast method to apply in between coats of paint.

https://www.softsandrubber.com/aspergrit.html
 
Also consider this route:

I'm using a product called Tuff Coat on my Weldbilt project. This stuff is stupid easy to work with. Its a polyurethane with rubber granules mixed in to make a truck bed liner-like appearance. It super comfortable to walk on, VERY grippy, and makes the decks and floor much quieter. It's water based, so cleanup is a breeze. You can find the gallons on Amazon for about $80, plus you would need an open cell foam roller to apply. Check it out!



 
Terp - I have seen the Asper-Grip product online
but have never seen it in my local stores.

my line of thought goes to it being a rubber product.
oil and latex paint does not stick to rubber very well.
and this makes me hesitant of using it.

I just ordered their sample kit for $4.95 for my own testing.

Thanks for sharing!!
 
Johnny said:
Terp - I have seen the Asper-Grip product online
but have never seen it in my local stores.

have you actually used this product?
is it as stable as sand grit?

my line of thought goes to it being a rubber product.
oil and latex paint does not stick to rubber very well.
and this makes me hesitant of using it.

I just ordered their sample kit for $4.95 for my own testing.

Yes, it's been on my boat for almost 3 years now. I really like it. I've never used sand w/paint for a textured surface, so I cannot compare to that. But it is very durable and hasn't worn any as far as how the grip still feels today. I do have a few spots on my floor where the paint, and along with it, the asper grit has come up, but it's a few very small spots that I believe is from storing my anchor in that location which was hard on the paint. Since I moved my anchor to the bilge area I haven't noticed anymore of my paint chipping/peeling. I would say it's as durable as the paint you mix it with. I haven't had any of the asper grit come up on it's own, if that makes sense? My boat is painted with Parker's Duck Boat Paint and I don't notice any difference in the durability of the treated w/asper grit paint compared to the non treated. And I am VERY hard on my boat. It gets used 12 months a year. Fishing during the warmer months and waterfowl hunting during the fall/winter.

I don't believe the asper grit is rubber. It's some sort of plastic polymer. They have another product called soft sand, that I do believe is rubber though. It looks like the asper grit gives more of an aggressive grip compared to the soft sand. Which makes sense to me if one is a plastic polymer and the other is a rubber.

FWIW, I used about half of the quart size I ordered to do the floor and front deck of my 1648 using the broadcast method. A coat of paint was applied through an HVLP gun and then the asper grit was "sprinkled" on the wet paint. Once that coat dried a second coat was sprayed over top. I may have did a third coat, but I cannot remember for sure. I like the broadcast method because you can control how much you want and where. The more you put down the more aggressive the grip will be. But you can also direct mix it with whatever paint you are using. My buddy used the other half of the quart to put on his back door wooden steps and the ramp to his trailer. Both of those are also holding up great and still just as grippy as day 1.
 
I keep on going back and forth on this. I like the idea of it and how I can spray it down when dirty, but also really like the looks of a carpeted boat. What would I do about the seams in my boat with the textured paint? My boat is pretty wide, so I will have to have a seam every 4'. I could put a strip of aluminum under each seam and screw it so the seams stay nice and even. Then put some wood filler in each seam and sand smooth.
 
"What would I do about the seams in my boat with the textured paint? My boat is pretty wide, so I will have to have a seam every 4'."

I guess I am not quite sure what this statement means???? Does your present flooring/deck have a "break" or "separation" every 4 feet?

If so, I guess I would tape off the rear section; paint the front section, and when it was dried properly, I'd then do the next section and keep on going until I was done.

Yes, there would be seams but that wouldn't be any different than what you have now.

If you were worried that the decking would leak at the seams, you could caulk those lines. Candidly, any water dripping between the seams should be fed back out towards the stern, assuming you have the normal channels that are built into most boats. Any tiny accumulation will dump out by your bilge pump or when you pull the plug after each trip.

richg99
 
So the deck you would normally walk on is about 5' wide. That's why I'm saying I will have to have seams every 4'. There were seams before.

My concern is I don't want to see the seam through the non slip paint. I want it to look like one long seamless floor, if i decide to go this route. Boat is about 70" at the top of the gunnels and 16' long. Also it's a v bottom aluminum boat.
 
OK. Now I understand. It's a "looks good" thing????

I guess I am just a "function over form" kind of guy. 16 feet of a panel that won't flex or crack is a tough challenge in a boat. Boats flex and twist and give and take.

I'd go with the seams, but that is just old me.

Your boat, your ideas....have fun and enjoy the modifications.

richg99
 
"I could put a strip of aluminum under each seam
and screw it so the seams stay nice and even.
Then put some wood filler in each seam and sand smooth".


if you approach it from the woodworkers standpoint, it would be
to pick an area where you can have the plywood seam uninterupted
on the back side. Scarf the joint and glue a 4" plywood backer under the joint.
Epoxy would never separate or fall out - wood filler would not be my 1st choice.
after it is all assembled, Bondo can be used to fill any imperfections prior to
priming and painting. A simple jig set up for your router would give you great results.
scarf joint.gif

- or - if you have a biscuit joiner, a lot of biscuits in the joint will work too.


.
 
Ahhhh Johnny, you are bringing back my misguided youth.

I haven't scarfed a joint in 28 years. Sure is a great way to join two wooden boards. I still own a power plane that I bought to do that little boat.

richg99
 

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