Spar Varnish - Product Review

I have used several brands of Spar Varnish over the years.
with the ever encroaching EPA regulations, some products
are suffering with their formula to still provide the "Back in the Day" quality.
The last time I used Old Masters Marine Spar Varnish was about 10-15 years ago.
it was top notch back then. I used it primarily on mahogany. It went on smooth
and dried rather quickly......................
this week, I used a can of Old Masters Exterior Oil Based Gloss Spar-Marine Varnish
and it was like smearing honey on cardboard. To say the least, I am not
impressed with this product now - as I was years ago.
It takes 8-10 hours to get "tack free" to handle and 24-48 hours to be cured
enough to sand and recoat.
I am using it in my living room on a new transom panel. Humidity is about 30% @ 75*f.
it says right on the label DO NOT THIN - Use straight from the can.
well - in my professional experience - I like to start the first few coats thinned quite a bit
and work up to unthinned for the last two coats for the best UV protection.
The longer a coating stays open (wet/tacky) the more dust and dirt it will collect. Several thin coats
that dry rather quickly will give you a much smoother finish in the end. (and more UV protection).
So - bottom line is - I do not endorse or promote this product for general varnishing projects.
unless - you have the time and patience to wait 48 hours between coats.

Read, Understand and Follow the instructions on the label of all products you use.
Pay particular attention to the safety notes and heed the warnings accordingly.
Any rags used in the prepping/painting process that have solvents, oils or paint on them,
should be layed out in the open to completely air dry prior to discarding them.


jus my Dos Centavos





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Johnny

Have you ever tried Duralux varnish?

I've used the Duralux paints back in the 80s - but not the varnish.
from the "other" boat side, WoodenBoat .com has high ratings for
for the Duralux Marine Spar varnish for just about everything topside.
I have a quart of the Epifanes Clear Marine Varnish now for the next
project.... it takes a special thinner but it is touted as having the most
UV blockers than all the rest.
I am replacing all the wood furniture in my "show boat" for the third
and LAST time...... so I am not going to skimp on the most important
part that will protect all of my hard work.
The Florida sun can really peel back the cheap paints and varnishes pretty quickly.

Thanks Johnny

Why I asked is that I have made some fishing lures in the past from wood. I painted them with acrylics and an airbrush. Most people who do this top coat the paint with epoxy but that is painstaking and messy not to mention the fumes. I experimented with PolyAcrylic polyurethane. Although it went on super clear and I was able to build up a nice thick glossy coat easily, my light colored paints would amber after only hours in the sun. I can get Duralux at the local HomeDepot so I was thinking about trying it for this purpose.

the UV protection in varnish is achieved by several thin coats.
not just one or two thick coats.
some of the vintage wood boats such as Chris-Craft that spend
a lot of time on the water and in the sun can have up to 12 to 15 coats of varnish.
and to maintain that protection - one or two coats are applied every season.
so with larger items such as boats - it is a routine maintenance thing.
I have no idea how the varnish would help on lures.
I do know that automotive clear coats are available in rattle cans now at the parts stores.
you might want to drop in and read the labels for UV inhibitors.
oh - another item that might work for you is the fishing rod coating.

https://www.mudhole.com/U40-Permagloss
it is applied like finger nail polish - check it out



.

I have not had success with single-part rattle-can clear coat on cars. Only lasts about a year.

Scooter - thus comes the word "maintenance".
I know of no coating that lasts forever - or one method fits all.
I bought an automotive one part urethane clear-coat from NAPA as well as the
colors to paint two vintage outboards. (they mix and fill the rattle can right there)
I can only "hope" they last more than one year.

now - if you bought a clear "LACQUER" in a rattle can for your car and it
only lasted a year - yes - rattle can lacquer is the pits when it comes to
UV tolerance. (it just doesn't have the moxy for outside use).

I am constantly on the lookout for "tried - tested - and true" varnish and paints.

The last clear coat that was touted "forever" was POR-15 Pelucid Clear.
but when I used it - it started to deteriorate after 5 years. (they no longer make it).
the new and improved formulas still lack the luster of days gone by. [thanks to EPA]
The price should tell you something about a product:
rattle can "lacquer" clear = $6.00
*NAPA rattle can 2K urethane clear = $27.00
*POR-15 rattle can 2K urethane clear = $25.00
*Eastwood rattle can 2K urethane clear = $25.00

* The automotive aresols are are a "two part" or "2K" product.
they have developed a process with the aresol can that has the
urethane coating as well as the hardener inside the same can.
once you "pop it" to operate - there is only a 48 hour pot life
before it starts to set up in the can. So, you must plan accordingly
to use it all within that 48 hour window or throw the unused portion away.

Read, Understand and Follow the manufacturer's directions on the product you use.







.

I have great results and longevity with Sikkens https://www.overtons.com/modperl/pr...id=adwords__&gclid=CI61u8jS7NICFdgIgQodQ3QNMA

Takes about a week to set, another week to dry hard but lasts and looks good for at least 5 years in direct sunlight. I'll never use anything else.

Johnny Thanks for pointing me at that U-40 Perma Gloss. Thats one I never heard of. Im going to give that a whirl.

Sonny - after you use it, come back and share a product review.
I have used it on repairing the eyes on rods but not on anything else.
I tried to find the partial bottle I have here but it's lost somewhere
in my "stuff". Call MudHole to see if it has a shelf life after it is opened.
good luck !!

btw - how did your trip go Out West ?

It was a good trip and my sons wedding went well.

We had to move quickly on our return day because of the storm that was brewing for the east.

I did get to go to Cabelas for a little while. I think I like BPS better for fishing and boating gear but Cabelas has them on the hunting gear.

Sonny

I use Rust-Oleum 207008 Spar Varnish. So much better than those water-based varnishes. This stuff protects almost forever. We used to use this kind of spar varnish in the Navy to protect the woodwork exposed to salty air.

Gary Roe said:

I use Rust-Oleum 207008 Spar Varnish. So much better than those water-based varnishes. This stuff protects almost forever. We used to use this kind of spar varnish in the Navy to protect the woodwork exposed to salty air.

Click to expand...

Menards used to stock this in the stores.
Now you have to order it at $13.00 a quart, you have to buy 6 quarts with $91.00 shipping. $169.00.

On my last build, I used this kind which I got from Ace Hardware. Worked very well.