1981 Lund Pro Angler Restore

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natemoen

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So I acquired my Grandpa's 1981 Lund Pro Angler last fall. Ater finally moving back to where it is I got to working on it about a month ago. It had sat unused since the mid 90's in my parent's possession and stunk like mice, fish, and mold. There was no jack on the trailer so it sat outside bow down and must have regularly filled with water. The floor was rotten and spongy, the wiring was all chewed up by mice. After pulling the floors out I found the foam was so water logged and full of mouse tunnels that it had to come out. I had planned to leave the foam in the transom area (since it would be a little difficult to get out) and in one of the forward compartments, but after getting the rest out after a few days the stink was still there so it all had to come out.

The plan going forward is to make this a usable boat again and to hopefully be on the water again in a couple months at most. I want to basically keep things the same as when my grandpa bought it new but to just do a few updates and tweaks to bring it up to 2017. So the overall layout will remain the same, only real change will be the control panel on the starboard side will be a little different. All the electrical components are getting replaced, all new wiring, instead of the plunger type switches I am changing to panel switches, all lights will be LED, batteries will be moved out of the way, and will be repainted inside and out, the exposed wood will get replaced with something nice.

Some questions that I have:

1: To clean the inside prior to painting should I sandblast it or is that not recommended on the aluminium (not using sand of course, probably corn media)?
2: I have seen people use the pink foam boards used in construction to replace pour in foam, does that work just as well?
3: All the wiring is getting replaced with 12/2 for the accessories/lights and 6awg for the trolling motor and then 4awg for the starting and accessory battery. Sound good?
4: Does anyone have the paint code for the Lund Red used in the early 80's, or is it the same as what they still use today?

That's probably good for now, I will keep things updated.
 

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Also, Should I paint the new marine plywood I am using for the floor? Would that help seal it better to last longer?
 
Nate - there are hundreds of very good projects on this forum.
your particular concerns can be found with the "search" feature.

what parts do you want to media blast ?
what parts do you want to paint ?

Marine Plywood is NOT waterproof by itself - it must be preserved
according to its use...... show quality = many coats of Spar Varnish.
painted deck = preserved and painted to your desires.
never apply carpet to bare plywood = seal and prime prior to carpet.

this is the "go to" sealer for plywood: Simple and Effective.
2 or 3 coats of sealer - 48-72 hours apart, depending on your weather.
WaterProofing Formula.jpg
the optional elements are mineral spirits vs turpentine
and oil base enamel paint vs varnish

if you use Pure Gum Turpentine over mineral spirits, it will take a bit longer to dry and cure.
but - it seeps deeper into the wood fibers - which is a good thing.
then, several coats of your paint or varnish provides the real protection.






.
 
Nice! My kind of boat. I'd rip it all out. That's what I did with mine. The foam Def needs to go. I would pour new foam or just use pool noodles. You can cut them for the length you need. Drop em in, and cover it with your flooring.

Once you start rolling on the build hit your feed with specific questions and PICTURES! we love pictures. There's tons of wisdom on here and tons of people willing to share opinions and ideas.

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
 
I will be painting everything inside the same off white color that it is now. The outside I want to do the same scheme that it is now with the red and then I haven't decided if the bottom will get painted a color or just clear coated.
 

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