Alumahawk Boat paint versus traditional primer- paint

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Maxamillion

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Wondering if anyone here has used alumahawk boat paint. Its really intriguing because you don't need to prime, just apply paint to the bare aluminum after wiping with vinegar. If this product is no good, what is the best primer, and topcoat to paint a boat for a reasonable price?
Thanks, Max
 
He best primer I know of is a product called MP-10. It's sold by Tuff Coat, and is a 1 part water based self etching primer. The directions state that you scrub the bare aluminum with a 50/50 water and muratic acid mix and a stiff bristle brush. Rinse, let dry, and just roll it on. No solvents or anything. Let it dry to touch, and top coat over it. This stuff is REALLY tough once it cures. While painting the bilge in my boat I left some primer unpainted for several weeks and attempted to sand it off with 80 grit with minimal success.

I found Amazon had the cheapest price at 24.99 a quart, which is pretty reasonable, considering the price of a can of zinc phosphate primer. You only need one coat after all.
 
Maxamillion said:
... what is the best primer, and topcoat to paint a boat for a reasonable price?
Click to expand...
There are TONS of good prep/prime/paint options, but for a reasonable price, one surely cannot beat:

  • Vinegar wash bare aluminum, after sanding and prepping. Co$t = free, steal the vinegar from the kitchen
  • Prime with spray zinc chromate 'self-etching' aluminum primer. Co$t = $6 from auto parts store
  • Paint topsides or insides with Rust-Oleum enamel. . Co$t = $8.37 per quart (lifetime supply!) from Wally-World

Your cost ... < $15 ...
 
Say i go the vinegar route and then spray with a zinc phosphate primer. Would any topside boat paint work to cover the zinc primer? or is that stuff tricky to topcoat?
 
And i can't find zinc chromate locally to save my life, do you have to order this stuff online always?
 
Maxamillion said:
Say i go the vinegar route and then spray with a zinc phosphate primer. Would any topside boat paint work to cover the zinc primer? or is that stuff tricky to topcoat?
Click to expand...
If a good enamel or good quality paint ... it should. That primer is easy to over-coat.

Maxamillion said:
And i can't find zinc chromate locally to save my life, do you have to order this stuff online always?
Click to expand...
Any auto parts store, or big box hardware store should have it, surprised you can't find any. The vinegar wash certainly etches the bare aluminum, so that could work by itself. If freshwater boat, I'd just do that.
 
Dale, thank you for all the informative responses. One more question for you, before spraying the zinc chromate on the hull is it neccesary to remove all the previous paint or could I just scuff and remove loose paint and prime over the well adhered paint?
 
If anyone could provide a link to the zinc chromate primer they used, or one you know is good quality it would be greatly appriciated.
 
You can paint over previous well-adhered paint. You only etch with the zinc chromate 'bare' aluminum. If you're having a problem finding it, I'd sand to roughen up (allows paint to somewhat mechanically stick to the surface) then would clean with white vinegar, but only on bare tin spots!

Wipe clean, then wipe any bare spots with new cloth/rag wet with white vinegar and let it dry well. Paint should stick no problems.

I use the zinc chromate as I boat in saltwaters ... but it's easy to over do this stuff ...
 
Just spot prime the bare aluminum with ZINC PHOSPHATE primer. Existing paint that's in good shape can be sanded with 220 grit sand paper, solvent cleaned and top coated.

Zinc chromate primer is no longer being sold for environmental concerns. Zinc phosphate has replaced it and can be found in most hardware or paint stores.
 
mbweimar said:
He best primer I know of is a product called MP-10. It's sold by Tuff Coat, and is a 1 part water based self etching primer. The directions state that you scrub the bare aluminum with a 50/50 water and muratic acid mix and a stiff bristle brush. Rinse, let dry, and just roll it on. No solvents or anything. Let it dry to touch, and top coat over it. This stuff is REALLY tough once it cures. While painting the bilge in my boat I left some primer unpainted for several weeks and attempted to sand it off with 80 grit with minimal success.

I found Amazon had the cheapest price at 24.99 a quart, which is pretty reasonable, considering the price of a can of zinc phosphate primer. You only need one coat after all.
Click to expand...


Did you topcoat over this primer with marine paint? or the tuffcoat? And also would it be ok above the waterline where it will it splashed?
 
Ended up going with napa 7222 zinchrom for my primer. Should I give the metal a bath of vinegar before I prime? And then rinse and dry before spraying primer?
 
always - or - back to NAPA for a bottle of OSPHO.

DaleH = Vinegar wash bare aluminum, after sanding and prepping. Co$t = free, steal the vinegar from the kitchen
Click to expand...


Read, Understand and Follow the instructions on the label of all products you use.
Pay particular attention to the safety notes and heed the warnings accordingly.
any rags used in the prepping/painting process that have solvents, oils or paint on them,
should be layed out in the open to completely air dry prior to discarding them.





.
 
Max, I used Tuff Coat and Pettit EzPoxy polyurethane with MP-10 with great results. I was impressed with how easy it was to use. And clean up is a breeze. Just rinse your brush with water.
 

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