Best way to remove 5200 adhesive?

I previously mounted a cutting board on the back of my boat in order to mount a transducer. I used 3M 5200 adhesive but unfortunately did not do the proper prep to the aluminum beforehand.

I have now purchased a sully removable transducer mount and have removed the cutting board. But there is a ton of the 5200 adhesive remaining on the boat.

Is there a good way to remove the 5200? I tried scraping it off with no luck. Would it hurt anything just to leave it on? I am going to fill in those screw holes at the top.

start with whatever tools you have on hand - less aggressive first and move up.
I used a 3" rotary wire wheel brush in a cordless drill and it worked fine.
if some parts are stubborn - a little heat from a bottle torch may be required.







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We use a product called Marine Formula. It's made my a company called DeBond. It's a polyurethane adhesive spray cleaner. At about $34 a can, it's pretty pricy, so you have to consider how much your time is worth.

I'd say try it if all else fails.

I don't have any personal experience, but have heard that a product called Methyl Ethyl Ketone, made my Klean Strip also works, but not as well. It's used to clean up the 5200 residue.

I don't think leaving it on will hurt. Surprising to me though that a sharp putty knife will not take it off.
Tim

Heat gun or propane torch?

RiverBottomOutdoors said:

Heat gun or propane torch?

Click to expand...

always start off with the less aggressive methods and work up from there.
in my world, I have no problem putting a MAP or propane bottle torch to something
I need to get loose or melt...... this comes from decades of using heat and big hammers.
- you will develop a broad range of skill sets as you putter up Life's Highways -

a 6x6" square of cured 5200 can be removed with the wire wheel in a drill
in probably less than 5 minutes.... a heat gun will speed up the process a bit

The electric heat gun gets really hot over a wide area.
Propane is more heat concentrated in a small area.
MAP Gas is much more heat concentrated in a small area.

used correctly, all three heat sources are excellent for removing
vinyl decals, paint and all kinds of adhesives.
the propane and MAP torches are good for loosening frozen metal parts, bolts, etc.






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Yeah, I bought a brand new putty knife, but I found that I was gouging into the aluminum as much as i was taking off the adhesive. I will try the the wire brush and possibly some heat if I get brave enough. I may leave some of it on, but would at least need to clean off the areas of the screw holes, so I can reseal them. Thanks!

I use a flapper sanding disc on a 4 1/2 inch side grinder you can get them in different grits. It will peel off 5200, 5300, or even JB weld like hot butter and clean the surface ready for paint. Be carful with the torch on ALU you will distort and bow the surface with to much heat. Apply light pressure with the flapper disc and use a light grit like 120 or above. If needed drop to 80 grit and stop time the 5200 is gone. You will be super surprised how quickly the flapper disc will remove anything and sharpen your lawn mower blades to boot. You can also buy grinding and cut off wheels for the grinder for a lot of different uses.

Leave it on - will not hurt anything.


5200 is really tough stuff - try the acetone if you feel the need to remove but I would not waste my time - plus it adds a layer of protection anyway