rivet question new to this

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

luigirox

Member
Joined
May 14, 2017
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
I puchased a john boat, first one
trasom plywood was gone i just noticed. First time out took on some water. Filled the boat with some wat 15 or so rivets leak and they all look to be coated in something already. Also i had to remove the transom support drill out the rivets the holes are out of round and over 5/16.

If i were to buy rivets were could i get some locally to replace the leaky ones? Im in subatbs of chicago

Do you put sealent on your rivets before you set them?

With the larger out of round holes in the tramsom support at the bottom of the boat' any sugestions?
I was thinking larger rivets but cant find them or some stainles bolts.

Also what type of carrage bolts do you use to mount the transom plywood to the back of the boat? Stainless? All the ones I see have a little square at the ends of the threads so they would no sit flush.

I feel like i am in over my head a little.
 
yes - you are way over your head even before you start.

BUT !!! with photos and a clear understanding of where to start,
the gallery here can pull you out of the muck by your bootstraps.
and where in the world do you hail from ?

PHOTOS of your concerns will help the gallery help you.
then - the correct materials, tools and methods can be recommended.

Welcome Aboard.jpg


.
 
Hi welcome to Tinboats.
What part of the Chicagoland area do you live?
Use stainless steel hardware as replacements for the rivets.
Don't use carriage bolts for the transom, SS hex head bolts or SS cap screws sealed with 3M5200 or 3M4200.
 
im in wheaton west of chicago.
Where do you find larger SS screws with the corrected head?

I'll try to get some pics tonight.
Does any were sell solid rivets?
 
Fastenall sells solid rivets.
I have bought SS hardware at Fastenall, Menards and Ace. 316 alloy SS is better but in fresh water the bulk pack at Menards is good.

I'm in the Algonquin, Lake in the Hills area.
 
so with the hex heads put a washer on each side?
sorry missed the hex head part. I saw plenty those.
 
luigirox said:
so with the hex heads put a washer on each side?
You don't need hex head bolts ... I buy oval head 304 series SS bolts 2" and 3" long in bulk from MSC Fasteners and I've had no problems with them. I've probably repaired a dozen transoms this way, including those on 4 or more of my own boats. In fact, the original SS bolts holding together my '78 vintage 12' skiff, that I just put a new transom in, showed no evidence of crevice corrosion ... however (BIG caveat here ...) I can't say that skiff was ever used in saltwater until I bought it a few years ago.

I typically advise that a nylon washer be put under the head and under the nylok nut of any SS fastener that will bear up directly against the aluminum. But heck ... on a freshwater boat? Even a few layers of duct tape, trimmed to fit, works for insulating the SS from the tin boat ... I know, I've done it ... before I upgraded my own personal technique 'just because' I could (plus I buy in bulk, so I had the means). Remember, insulating the 2 metals is the key, not necessary your choice of material or component to insulate them.

Attached are some pictures - saltwater boat - of what can happen to aluminum when in direct contact with stainless steel in an environment that exacerbates corrosion, i.e., saltwater use. Note that SS is more noble (on the scale of metals) so an electric current will be established between the 2 metals and the aluminum will degrade and exchange its ions to the SS, which wears away the tin.

Crevice corrosion happens on SS fasteners when put though a solid object like a transom, as the lack of exposure to air causes it to corrode, albeit not as fast as a regular metal piece would. That SS bolt was on a newer boat, where I helped repair a water leak for the owner. The hole through the fiberglass was drilled over-sized, on a wood core transom, and it wasn't sealed properly. That's bad enough ... but the bolt was UNDER the waterline when the boat was floated.

I don't get it ... he told me he bought that brand boat new "at a good price ... "?
 

Attachments

  • Corrosion, Crevice.JPG
    Corrosion, Crevice.JPG
    105.8 KB · Views: 751
  • Corrosion, SS to Tin.JPG
    Corrosion, SS to Tin.JPG
    124.7 KB · Views: 751
there are 6 holes that for the stabilizer
 

Attachments

  • 20170516_070418.jpg
    20170516_070418.jpg
    42.3 KB · Views: 693
  • 20170516_070431.jpg
    20170516_070431.jpg
    43.7 KB · Views: 693

Latest posts

Top