Small Paint blisters growing under high end factory paint,

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10sne1

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I have a 2006 triton, love the boat. It has what appears to be bubbling or oxidation under the paint. The spot I'm referring to are small but growing ever so slowly. Now the sixe of a finger nail. Maybe 6 to 8 of these boils on the boat, typically in a groove or seem. I feel like I need to deal with this issue, before the problems grow. But how? What type sand paper to remover top paint and sand out blemish? Then what to prime with? A I believe the boat is iron paint in white. I have tried to post photos just no luck. If you think you have an answer? I'd love to send you photos of my issue. Please drop me an e-mail. [email protected].
Thanks in advance Tomm
Lakeland Florida
 
Have you actually seen what is underneath the blisters?

I would be afraid it might be corrosion.

1244 Atchafalaya Outdoor Designs W/ 12hp Copperhead
 
I have not broken thru the paint to see what is below, causing the blister/boil. It looks like the photo in the link below, thanks.

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fstevedmarineconsulting.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2014%2F02%2F062209034_1303735861.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fstevedmarineconsulting.com%2Fpaint-and-aluminum-how-to-ensure-a-good-mix-2%2F&docid=DNFuoh_nITddoM&tbnid=LMeMjofhKe0PRM%3A&vet=10ahUKEwj9mKmm2rrUAhVIOSYKHcJeBQwQMwgwKAAwAA..i&w=400&h=267&hl=en-us&client=safari&bih=672&biw=1024&q=blistered%20paint%20on%20aluminum%20boat&ved=0ahUKEwj9mKmm2rrUAhVIOSYKHcJeBQwQMwgwKAAwAA&iact=mrc&uact=8


I believe it could be corrosion, but what is the best way to fix? Thanks, Tomm
 
first question: what do you mean by - - I believe the boat is iron paint in white

yep - that is Marine Cancer (welcome to the aluminum world).

https://www.totalmateria.com/page.aspx?ID=CheckArticle&site=ktn&NM=187

this problem will NOT go away by turning a blind eye or just painting over it.
now is you time to be an intern of metal and paint restoration.
sand it all back to clean metal with 80 grit, treat with any kind of neutralizer, etch, prime and paint.

what neutralizer you ask ??
well, in my world - - - I sort of go against the grain of the purists here.
I start off with vinegar, rinse, another wash of diluted muriatic acid (10% strength)
baking soda rinse, then for the final etching, Ospho (if you have it on hand).
zinc chromate prime and paint.
if the pitted area is unsightly after the cleaning process, you could prime with a chromate primer
and use some Bondo body filler to bring it smooth, let everything cure thoroughly, prime again and paint.
following ALL instructions on ALL products you use.
 
In the picture the OP posted, that corrosion is due to the stainless steel bolt bearing against the aluminum. SS against tin sets up a galvanic corrosion via a mild electrical current that is formed. Happens all the time on aluminum bodied fishing reels put together w/ SS bolts.

You need to insulate those SS bolts from the tin. Their is a goop, Tef-Gel that the military uses or the simpler DIY 'Dale' method of adhesive-lined heatshrink on the fastener threads and nylon washers under the bolt heads and under the nylok nuts.

I always grease the threads w/ a good marine waterproof synthetic marine grease before adding heatshrink. If not a load bearing part, you can put a nylok nut up against a thick nylon washer, but if load bearing, add a SS washer. In my well distant past I once just used duct tape to insulate SS from direct contsct w/ tin.
 
Thank you, always a good informative reply from you all. I was told the paint was called Iron paint? Used on Triton aluminum's. I could be mistaken
 
yep - that makes more sense, Dale.
several years ago, a friend of mine hired me to touch up
the "hangar rash" on his 1960 Cessna 310 with an airbrush.
his plane was painted with imron paint and the touchups
looked horrible !!! would not buff out.
the owner called the Imron Co. and they told him that you
can not - and should not - push Imron Paint through an airbrush
or use conventional brushes and rollers to touch up their product.
so lesson learned there (for me).
the hangar that overhauled his plane paid for a total repaint of his airplane.

So - if anyone has something that has been factory painted with Imron two-part
paint, it may be impossible to "touch up" with the same product (and achieve satisfactory results).



.
 
Imron, yes that would make sense. The photo I linked was just an example. Though it is about the size issue I am dealing with. I do wish to take care of this issue on the boat. As this is the paint used on the boat, shall I treat it differently? Or just sand and clean and etch with vinegar and treat as described. Then prime and paint with what was suggested. Or is there a reason not to work/fix the few areas that need fixing? Thanks
 
I’m back, as I did not get a jump on this repair in June and have signs of more bubbling paint. Non of the damage at this time would need to have Bondo or filler to fix! I look to take the following steps but have questions:
-Remove hardware associated with issue, cleats, clam shell at transom carrying wires to the motor and such.
-Sand the areas that have an issue, thinking of using a drumel to chew/sand off the bubbles?
-What would you use to remove or sand off the bad paint?
-treat clean aluminum with what?
-prime with what type paint?
-what type of paint for top coat?
-replace the hardware, using Aluminum screws? Or what to use as a barrier between the Boat and the hardware?
Thanks for your help, I do plan to get into this project and complete it before spring, as I am enjoying this Boat as wish to keep it in good repair.
Thanks Tomm

Ps Johnny, you have a PM thanks
 
I used my 6 inch orbital sander with 80 grit and followed over that with 120 grit to dull the sanding marks
Then I sprayed two coats of epoxy primer over the bare aluminum
I used PPG Delfleet Essential factory pack white polyurethane paint for the top coat. I sprayed two coats. This is for the hull.
I used Matrix base coat and Limco clearcoat for the deck.
I use stainless steel hardware.
Not sure what you are asking regarding a barrier between the boat and the hardware. I'm just going to bolt the hardware back on same as the factory did.
 
Thanks Bill. But I only have 6 small areas needing attention. Each about 2 inch by 3 inch, and I do not know how to spray paint in a air paint sprayer. I am leaning toward using
Zinc chromate air craft primer. I can get it in spray can. Bout 10$ a can. And I have notes out to Triton to see if they have a sample of original paint? I have also contacted rust%-Oleum’s, as they have a paint called, marine topside and checking to see if that will work for my application? And compatible with imron?
Thanks for your thoughts.
 
10sne1 said:
I have not broken thru the paint to see what is below, causing the blister/boil. It looks like the photo in the link below, thanks.

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fstevedmarineconsulting.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2014%2F02%2F062209034_1303735861.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fstevedmarineconsulting.com%2Fpaint-and-aluminum-how-to-ensure-a-good-mix-2%2F&docid=DNFuoh_nITddoM&tbnid=LMeMjofhKe0PRM%3A&vet=10ahUKEwj9mKmm2rrUAhVIOSYKHcJeBQwQMwgwKAAwAA..i&w=400&h=267&hl=en-us&client=safari&bih=672&biw=1024&q=blistered%20paint%20on%20aluminum%20boat&ved=0ahUKEwj9mKmm2rrUAhVIOSYKHcJeBQwQMwgwKAAwAA&iact=mrc&uact=8


I believe it could be corrosion, but what is the best way to fix? Thanks, Tomm

The link to the Google Image referred to in 10sne1's post above, contains a very interesting article about aluminum corrosion under paint. I'm far from an expert but to me it makes a good argument for not painting aluminum.
 
For the boat colour match paint you could take the boat to a auto paint supply store and have them "camera" the colour and then mix the proper colour , put it in a spray can and then you can paint the affected areas
 
I like the thought of not repainting these small areas with electrolysis. I could scrape, sand treat the area with cleaner. Then place a plastic or rubber barrier between the boat aluminum and hardware. So aluminum boat plastic or rubber and stainless hardware mounted on top of plastic or rubber? Thus separating the two metals by more than just paint?
 

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