Ouachita Flat bottom transom wood replacement

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Proforce99

New member
Joined
Aug 17, 2017
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
boat3.jpgboat1.jpgHave an old Ouachita 16' flatbottom that the wood is rotted away from the transom. It has welded gussets that go from top of transom to floor. Short of cutting off the welds how can I replace the wood. Was wondering if I can put it in in sections, alternating the overlaps of the 2 layers of plywood. I am attaching photos of the transom
 
The knee braces look they are screwed or riveted on. I'd just disconnect those and the cover piece over the top of the transom and slide the new transom in. A multi=piece transom kinda takes away form the point of the thing
 
welcome aboard, ProForce.

if you read through the "search" feature, you will find several threads
of members with the same exact problem.

most have removed everything removable that they can get to and wiggle-waggle the wood out.
some go with the surgical approach and cut the top off and reweld it back.
why manufacturers weld in the transom panel is not known - but very dumb to say the least.

just start removing things that you can get to first - then come back with some fresh photos.
the wood panel may very well slide out the bottom - vs the top - after the knees are unfastened.
 
They wouldn't sell new boats if they made em too easy to fix the old ones! I'd cut and weld.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Weldorthemagnificent said:
They wouldn't sell new boats if they made em too easy to fix the old ones! I'd cut and weld.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

x2. The question I would be asking is how much do I need to remove to wiggle in the new wood transom. In addition to screws, it looks like the knee braces are welded at the top and bottom. If you removed just the knee braces, would you be able to get the new transom wood in place?. I'm not a welder and could be all wet here. But it seems like these would be easier (& less $) to re-weld back on than removing the transom cap.
 
That transom cap comes over pretty deep. Looks like 4-6". From the pics, it looks like it would be tough to slip the wood up underneath. Especially if you want the wood to go all the way to the bottom. I'd be inclined to zip it across the back, slide new wood in and get a local shop to make a new transom top that goes over both sides and bolt it on and either bolt or rivet corner caps back on. Might have to get a couple tabs welded on here and there to make this possible but in 5-10 years if it needs doing again, it's an afternoon job.
Looks like a good solid built boat. Be worth fixing up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
2875c5813b2cdad808c3274eccfe24b4.jpg

I did a transom rebuild on an old boat last year. Granted, my transom corner caps were already riveted so removal and replacing was simple. The transom top however was like yours. So using an angle iron as a guide, I zip cut straight across the back. This allowed the wood to be dropped in from the top easily. I'm a welder so making the plate was easy but not really time consuming. I used 1/4" aluminum and made it a snug fit over the top. It comes down 2 1/2" in front. Then bolt through with stainless bolts using silicone in the holes and fender washers on the inside where it comes through the wood.
You should be able to find a local shop to make a plate like this in the $150 range.
Plate plus a good transom board makes the back end tough as nails.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have the exact same boat I replaced the transom on mine about four years ago I had to cut the welds replace the wood transom and have it welded back together. Did you ever get the transom replaced?
 
Do yourself a favor and replace the wood with aluminum tubing. It's light weight, structurally rigid and will last the boat for ever if done well. You'll pay more up front but it will be well worth it in the end.
 

Latest posts

Top