Leaking seams on my 1960s Lonestar

Hello guys! I have used this site extensively over the last few months. It has been a great resource for my first tin boat restoration/remodel. I have learned so much. I have recently come to a point where I need some professional opinion. I have stripped down my boat to bare metal. What a project! I ordered all my paints and sealers. Quart of Gluv-it for seams and rivers, Steelflex for outside, and Durabak for inside. I did the water test yesterday. I did not have any leaking rivets but the seams on both sides leaked like a faucet. I have uploaded a YouTube video here:

https://youtu.be/7QFRgocmpOc

Do you guys think just coating it with Gluv It will fix the leaking seams or do you think I should replace all the rivets and reseal?

I appreciate all you guys! Thanks!

I watched your video.
If the rivets are accessible on the inside maybe using a hammer on the rivet heads on the outside of the hull while holding a dolly block on the rivets on the inside of the hull may tighten them and stop the leaks. It is what I would attempt first but I do autobody repair so for me it is a simple thing to try.
I'm sure there are others here who have had the same issue and corrected the problem using easier methods.

This stuff works great for me... flows right into seams and around rivets...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7T5yevDl-HM

I will try to buck the rivets, but I don't know if that will work. There is some sealer type material, possibly caulk from PO, deeper in the seams that has been damaged. I'm wondering if I should drill the rivets out, remove the material, then seal and rivet again, or just use the Gluv It over the seams.

Motorboater said:

I will try to buck the rivets, but I don't know if that will work. There is some sealer type material, possibly caulk from PO, deeper in the seams that has been damaged. I'm wondering if I should drill the rivets out, remove the material, then seal and rivet again, or just use the Gluv It over the seams.

Click to expand...

Looks like my 1963 Lone Star "Commander".

MB - mine leaks a few drops from that same seem. I doubt that replacing/sealing rivets alone will take care of all the leaks. To me, it looks like that seam itself is leaking. In this case I'd flip the boat and seal that entire seam with Gluv or 3M 5200. I will be doing the same thing this winter - sealing those long seams with the 5200. Mine only leaks a few drops per trip, but it still bothers me. :mrgreen:


Good luck. Those old Lone Stars are nice boats.


CMOS

The vintage Lone Stars have a rubber strip in the overlapping seams.
over time, debris, like sand, salt, twigs, etc. can get wedged in there
to make it more or less permanently compromised.
you must power wash the leaking areas to try to get as much foreign matter
out as possible . . . then, go with whatever means necessary to get it sealed.
once you start removing rivets, it could turn into the worst nautical nightmare
you have ever had. Leave the rivets in place and tighten them up - first.




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Okay, it's the rubber seam that is torn to pieces then.

Good call on the commander. That's what I pinned it as. Took me about two weeks of studying to figure it out.

As far as the seams- The actual rivets dont "seam" to be leaking That's why I was wondering if I should take the rivets off and clear the gasket material, reseal, then rivet.

The power washer is an excellent idea. Thank you.

Dale-H and I both agree on the epoxy method for sealing seams.
specifically, G/Flex-650 by West System Epoxy.
epoxy is fluid enough to seep into the open seams
which should be taped on the bottom with masking tape
to prevent run-out. you will have about 30-45 minutes of open fluid working time.
I called the Gougeon Brothers tech guy and this is what he
suggested ...... the G/Flex 650 will readily stick like crazy
to the rubber strip, once it is cleaned up a little and will REMAIN FLEXIBLE
throughout its lifetime.... unlike fiberglass polyester resin, which will get hard and brittle once cured.
neither epoxy or polyester resin is UV tolerable and must be top coated with paint or Spar Varnish.
your boat = your call on what method to use.
YouTube has several good videos on many products to use to seal leaking seams.


Read, Understand and Follow the instructions on the label of all products you use.
Pay particular attention to the safety notes and heed the warnings accordingly.
any rags used in the prepping/painting process that have solvents, oils or paint on them,
should be laid out in the open to completely air dry prior to discarding them.


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Motorboater said:

Good call on the commander. That's what I pinned it as. Took me about two weeks of studying to figure it out.

As far as the seams- The actual rivets dont "seam" to be leaking That's why I was wondering if I should take the rivets off and clear the gasket material, reseal, then rivet.

Click to expand...

If you IM me your email I can send you a copy of the 1966 Lone Star brochure! :mrgreen:


CMOS

I already have Gluv It and then steelflex for the outside. Won't Gluv It do the same thing as the gflex?

It should handle about the same. The trick is the syringe that they recommend for G flex. You don't want or need to slop it all over the area... just shoot a fine bead into the crack... warm up the metal and it should suck right into the gaps. Buy a few big syringes....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-x-10ml-syringe-with-blunt-4-long-needle-to-refill-ink-cartridge-craft-glue-/130816500200?epid=1031344742&hash=item1e754561e8:m:mLoKDFU12Qgs4gKTrcaC2-A

I'd try doing that only... you shouldn't need to goop a bunch of stuff on the bottom of a boat....

Update: I have used the powerwasher and it really cleaned out the seams. I'm very happy with it. I plan on using the gflex on the bottom seams as she sits. Then I am gonna flip the boat and use the Gluv it on the rest of the seams/ rivets. Then paint with the steelflex.

I was wondering- Should I buck the rivets before I use the gflex/Gluv It?

in my very personal and very limited experience, I vote for "YES"
on bucking all loose rivets as well as tightening up any loose seams that are "overly open"
prior to applying any kind of sealant or covering onto an item.

think about it - - - once a liquid enters the seam, it will be impossible
to close it back up after that liquid has hardened. making the job look awful.
I found that applying SteelFlex to the bottom will NOT seal any leaking rivets
that were loose or compromised before the Flex was applied.
treat any suspect leakers prior to applying a full bottom covering.

I had to apply 3M-5200 on top of the SteelFlex to seal the leakers. (which worked quite well).




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Excited to update you guys. I have the Lonestar sealed, painted, and registered. Big day tomorrow- she’s going in the water to check for leaks!

Good luck and hope your toes are dry!