Newbie intro and some Lone Star questions...

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Joined
Oct 2, 2017
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Location
Tampa, FL
Hello everyone. I'm so glad I found this forum full of people willing to share their knowledge and experience. I live in Tampa, Fl and am the proud, though somewhat disillusioned, new owner of a 1957 Lone Star Admiral Deluxe aluminum boat powered by a 1998 40hp Yamaha outboard motor. I say disillusioned because the 'pristine' boat I thought I was purchasing seems to have had heavy saltwater use by it's previous owner. There was no dishonesty on the sellers part but perhaps a little over enthusiasm on my part which caused me to see the boat in much better condition than she really is.

I am not complaining in the least, I just had it in my mind that she didn't need any work only maintenance. I love working on things and taking on projects but right now, I really have enough on my plate without this little surprise. Anyway, it is what it is and I need to get on top of the rust and corrosion on the boat and trailer.

I took the boat out two days ago on the Hillsborough River and had a good time. She took on some water but nothing the bilge pump couldn't handle. She handled like a dream. She planed at 1300 rpm and the max speed of the motor is 5500 RPM with a crushing speed of 5000 rpm. I can't wait to see her stretch her legs on a large lake. I feel like a little school boy with a crush, all giddy inside.

Ok, now for a few questions...
The drain in the transom looks strange to me. Granted I have never owned an aluminum boat before but this is just a hole in the metal, no fitting, no flared tubing lining, nothing. Could this be how it was designed? I am concerned that this might chafe or even cut into the rubber plug.

Also, there is no wood on the outside of the transom. It appears as if there should be because of the gap under the motor mounting bracket. Do most tinnys have wood on the inside and outside?

One more question for now. The boat is very stern heavy. Aside from the motor the full sized battery and the pair of 3 gal. fuel tanks are mounted back there. Is this common or should I look into moving the battery, tanks, or both to a more forward position? I am also considering the moving of the controls to the forward most position. there is plenty of cable length for the engine control box to move it. I would need a longer steering cable or would have to put in a retro pulley and cable system. Any thoughts?

Ok this post is getting quite long so I'll end with these questions for now, Thanks in advance for all your help.

Brian
 
HuckleberryTinn said:
Hello everyone. I'm so glad I found this forum full of people willing to share their knowledge and experience. I live in Tampa, Fl and am the proud, though somewhat disillusioned, new owner of a 1957 Lone Star Admiral Deluxe aluminum boat powered by a 1998 40hp Yamaha outboard motor. I say disillusioned because the 'pristine' boat I thought I was purchasing seems to have had heavy saltwater use by it's previous owner. There was no dishonesty on the sellers part but perhaps a little over enthusiasm on my part which caused me to see the boat in much better condition than she really is.

I am not complaining in the least, I just had it in my mind that she didn't need any work only maintenance. I love working on things and taking on projects but right now, I really have enough on my plate without this little surprise. Anyway, it is what it is and I need to get on top of the rust and corrosion on the boat and trailer.

I took the boat out two days ago on the Hillsborough River and had a good time. She took on some water but nothing the bilge pump couldn't handle. She handled like a dream. She planed at 1300 rpm and the max speed of the motor is 5500 RPM with a crushing speed of 5000 rpm. I can't wait to see her stretch her legs on a large lake. I feel like a little school boy with a crush, all giddy inside.

Ok, now for a few questions...
The drain in the transom looks strange to me. Granted I have never owned an aluminum boat before but this is just a hole in the metal, no fitting, no flared tubing lining, nothing. Could this be how it was designed? I am concerned that this might chafe or even cut into the rubber plug.

Also, there is no wood on the outside of the transom. It appears as if there should be because of the gap under the motor mounting bracket. Do most tinnys have wood on the inside and outside?

One more question for now. The boat is very stern heavy. Aside from the motor the full sized battery and the pair of 3 gal. fuel tanks are mounted back there. Is this common or should I look into moving the battery, tanks, or both to a more forward position? I am also considering the moving of the controls to the forward most position. there is plenty of cable length for the engine control box to move it. I would need a longer steering cable or would have to put in a retro pulley and cable system. Any thoughts?

Ok this post is getting quite long so I'll end with these questions for now, Thanks in advance for all your help.

Brian


Congrats! I have a 1963 Lone Star Commander.

Typically the transom only has wood on the inside.

The drain hole on my Lone Star is exactly as you describe - just a hole. Never had a problem with it cutting the plug.

"Stern heavy" - why do you say this? Is it difficult to get on plane? From your description it does sound like it may be a good move to create some better balance by moving something more towards midships. Can you post some pics?


Welcome to Tinboats!


CMOS
 
Welcome aboard.

Sounds like you've got a great project. Nothing in your comments led me to believe that your boat has any excessive salt water wear and tear.

Stern heavy.....that is probably the most common complaint or question on this site. In fact, I am wondering if I, personally, will have that issue when I put my newest addition to my fleet into the water in three weeks or so.

If ALL of the moveable weight is in the stern, then moving some of it forward seems called for. Five-gallon buckets, full of water, weigh about 42 lbs each. I'd put one or two forward and just see what happens. Strap them down tightly, though.

Obviously, that test is ADDING weight, but if you do move the gasoline tanks forward, the results should then be better.

You've got your answer on the drain hole.

What else can we help with at this time?

richg99
 
Thanks for all the quick replies. CMOS, the boat planes very easily although it lifts its bow to a concerning degree (at least for me) before it starts to level out. I will try to get some pictures posted today. Unfortunately, I did not think to take a picture of the boat as she was floating dockside this past weekend. Thank you for the reassurance that the drain plug is okay just like it is. It's also good to know that I don't need to add any wood to the outside of the transom.

Richg99, I don't believe anything has been seriously damaged by salt water. The head gasket area of the motor looked pretty bad at first but once cleaned seems okay. Their are a few places on the boat where the paint is bubbling. The trailer is another story. It's not beyond repair by far but the springs, the bunk brackets, the winch, and many of the bolts are pretty well rusted. I found out yesterday that the bunks are made of pressure treated wood. According to the previous owner the boat has been sitting on these bunks since 2001. I don't see any damage on the boat hull but I do want to change them out using untreated wood. I like your idea of using some ballast upfront. The boat is rated for six people so I'm sure the extra weight will be fine. I am considering moving the battery so it is under the drivers seat and the fuel tanks to the bow of the boat or maybe vice versa. That will also allow me to add flotation under the rear seat. It concerns me that the majority of the boats weight is at the rear and yet there is no flotation back there at all. If something were to happen I would rather have the boat floating somewhat level rather than just it's bow barely peeking out of the water.

Produceman, what an awesome idea. I have never seen nor heard of a bow shaped fuel tank. I will definitely be looking into this.

Thanks so much guys for all your ideas and suggestions. I have rheumatoid arthritis so I don't usually get things done in a hurry but they do usually get done. I will keep plugging along on this project and will keep you all updated. I will start a thread over in the projects area of the forum in the next few days.
 
Brian, my wife has RA. She, at one time, had to give herself weekly shots. More courage than me.

As far as the springs rusting, that is normal, even on freshwater trailers. Some guys just hit them with a hammer to be sure that a good amount of healthy material is left. If the hammer-hit shows too much weakness, time for a new set. Nothing out of normal there.

Good luck with your project. Take your time and it will be better, I am sure.

richg99
 
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