Installing Leaning Post Ideas

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jtf

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Getting the 16ft jet ready for the rivers, and most here move fast, and or, are rocky places to bump bottom. The extended deck needs a leaning post or called a knee brace in drift boats and fishing rafts.

Need the correct base and post that will Not Spin.

I have a springfield base for a snap in fitting, but the receiver hole is about 1 1/2" and raised. Would rather use a flat 3/4" pop-in or screw in. It needs to be no spin and removable. It will go all the way up front on the extended deck. The welder will fabricate the curved yoke.

This is the only way to use the casting deck safely.
 
https://greatlakesskipper.com/swivl-eze-25-inch-2254-t-ss-lock-n-pin-boat-pedestal-post?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqYyRmIyW1wIVhrfACh3x7QjUEAQYASABEgLSlvD_BwE


Would this work? It would have to be non-swivel and receive a leaning cradle up top, that we might fabricate.
 
About to haul the boat over to the fabrication shop and need some hardware to take along. Some suggestions please if anybody has some ideas.
 
Need the base and post that will Not Spin.

Prefer screw down deck base with 3/4" receiver. No Swivel, No Spin. Post needs to be 24" tall.

The snap in post don't spin but the deck bases are too large. Have them on my drift boat.

Like this if it doesn't rotate in the base or the pedestal.

We will fabricate a yoke to fit the top of pedestal. Don't need a seat base.

The reason for this, it can be disconnected and stowed when not in use. For clarification, look at the front or rear braces on a drift boat or fishing raft frame.

https://www.springfieldgrp.com/products/taper-lock-series/pedestals/manual-adjustable-pedestals

https://www.springfieldgrp.com/products/kingpin-series/pedestals/manual-adjustable-pedestals
 
You could probably fabricate and weld a piece of aluminum on the side of the post and a corresponding hole slot on the base that would prevent it from rotating. Maybe another reader knows of a pedestal brand that doesn't rotate. Forgive my crude drawing.
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The factory says use the screw in base and pedestal and drive a pin through the top post.
 
jtf said..."
The factory says use the screw in base and pedestal and drive a pin through the top post."

I just did this a week or so ago on my "dock step". Screwed the post in as tight as it would go, and then drilled a hole into the top plate's side and threaded a 1/4 20 stainless bolt into it.

I had to re-drill the post deeper to feel comfortable that the screw wouldn't back out on me.
 

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Thanks for the ideas guys. I figured someone had tried this.

What fasteners did you use for the floor plate Rich?
 
That floor plate was already installed on the boat when I bought it. There doesn't seem to be any access to the underside.

Sorry, I have no idea what the original owner used.

If I were putting in something like you described, I'd use stainless steel bolts; through-bolted with big fender washers and Nylock nuts.

Your device is high, and will have a lot of leverage applied by someone leaning on it, especially in heavy seas.
 
No way to access underside of deck, so will need an aluminum base, screw-down and tack weld. The factory said to use a 3/4" dia rod to finish up the top section and stop the swivel as you did with a through pin. Need to ask the factory if they make in aluminum.
 
I actually tapped a 1/4 20 thread into the aluminum post, and then drilled a recess into the short seat riser post. Then, I threaded the 1/4 20 Stainless Steel bolt into the new threaded hole; then beyond and into the short riser post's recess.
 
Talked to factory, the plate and pedestal Rich is using will work, it is screw in but stainless steel base.

Loctite PL Marine Fast Cure : this from another post looks promising as I have to sandwich aluminum to stainless steel. Cant get under deck to use bolts. How about using a slightly larger aluminum plate, tack welded to deck top and fasten ss base plate onto it?

Could try two fasteners, drill and tap or use a lag bolt/screw with aggressive thread through re-enforcement plate and deck.
 
Just my opinion. You have the potential to place a lot of stress on your mounting...

Since you can weld, what about welding T nuts to the plate: then tack weld that plate to the present deck.

Mount the SS base using the T nuts.

Pretty much all of the strength will be relying on your welds. Since I have no welding experience, I'm just guessing here.
 

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