Lund SSV16 Question

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Flyfishingken

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Hey all, I'm excited to be a member here. Just bought a used SSV 16 with a 25hp Merc EFI engine and a new galvanized trailer. Everything runs great, love the boat. I did however notice on the boat which is a 2001, where the motor mounts on the transom there is a very slight bend or dip. It looks like the metal has just bent a little bit over the years. Probably just a 1/4 of an inch. It doesn't look structural really and the boat test drive fine. Everything is secure back there with no leaks. Is this tiny bit of bend normal with these boats after running big motors for ten years? It appears the metal has just slightly bent over time.

Thanks
Kenny
 
A lot of that can be caused by bouncing when trailering. Several boats I have owned, I have put a piece of 1/4” aluminum plate on the back to spread out the pressure.


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Weldorthemagnificent said:
A lot of that can be caused by bouncing when trailering. Several boats I have owned, I have put a piece of 1/4” aluminum plate on the back to spread out the pressure.


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Thanks, I'm thinking I need a transom saver then. The Merc is pretty heavy. Also I see it bouncing all over. I think I will go with the type that anchors to the trailer.
 
They work good. On my current rig, the trailer is up under the boat a bit so I just put a ratchet strap under the power head and pull it forward. Takes the bounce out and keeps the weight off when trailering.


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14cceb7bd6c2636ec8cf9be7e36f9326.jpg

This is the plate I did on my last boat. The Lund is definitely a better built boat so may not need anything this drastic.


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Weldorthemagnificent said:
14cceb7bd6c2636ec8cf9be7e36f9326.jpg

This is the plate I did on my last boat. The Lund is definitely a better built boat so may not need anything this drastic.


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Thanks for the pic and info. I like it! I will post pics later for some input.
 
Alright, I'm posting a few pictures here. They will help explain what I'm seeing. So the transom is solid. All the way to the bottom of the hull. But, the top portion above the splashwell/horizontal area is slightly bowed out just a bit. Check out the photos. I'm mostly positive it's from trailering. But, I'm open to input. I'm going to try to always put a transom saver on from now on. I think the boat is completely fine to operate in general.

Thanks!
 

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Looks like bouncing from trailering to me is all. Transom saver and it should be good


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Wow it’s bowed pretty good. A transom saver will help keep it from getting worse. I’d be inclined to try to straighten/strengthen it. You could get a local welding shop to make a piece. Maybe 1/4 x2x2 aluminum angle the width of the transom cap and a 12x12 piece of 1/4 aluminum plate welded to one leg of the angle centered. Bolt the angle through the transom in 5-6 places and through the plate where your motor bolts on. This might help pull it back straight and lend some rigidity.


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That is quite a bow.

I own a 1981 - 16' Lund Pike, a very similar design. It has had a 60 hp (max design hp) on it since 1986 and it doesn't look like that.
I do a lot of trailering and I just added a transom saver to the rig as a precaution.

I checked the Lund catalog for 2001 and the max hp on your boat is 50 hp tiller.

So, the 25 you have on it is a significant lighter load than the design max.

If it were my boat, I would very carefully remove the transom cap and check the wood core.
 
Thanks for the input guys. I don't really see it being a issue. I think I'm going to get a transom saver as soon as possible. I'm going to take it out a few times before then but I'm going to lower the engine as far as I dare and use a few bungee cords to secure it. I'm thinking about putting one off the trailer to the back of the lower unit and then another to keep it from turning while I drive. If I run it and it gets worse I will use your idea to reinforce the metal and do some construction ha.

Do you guys think bunkering the lower unit down to the trailer will be ok? I'm sure it's less force then running the motor in the water.

Thanks
 
FishinLite said:
That is quite a bow.

I own a 1981 - 16' Lund Pike, a very similar design. It has had a 60 hp (max design hp) on it since 1986 and it doesn't look like that.
I do a lot of trailering and I just added a transom saver to the rig as a precaution.

I checked the Lund catalog for 2001 and the max hp on your boat is 50 hp tiller.

So, the 25 you have on it is a significant lighter load than the design max.

If it were my boat, I would very carefully remove the transom cap and check the wood core.

Yikes you guys are making me think it was a poor purchase...
 
You said it is solid so use a transom saver and you'll be fine.

It has a bit of a bow at the top and it probably won't give any more. Make sure the welds or rivets in that area are good, redo if needed. If you are anal, pull the transom cap and check the wood.
 
beetlespin said:
You said it is solid so use a transom saver and you'll be fine.

It has a bit of a bow at the top and it probably won't give any more. Make sure the welds or rivets in that area are good, redo if needed. If you are anal, pull the transom cap and check the wood.

Thanks for the comment, I guess I am just being overly concerned. First time boat owner and wanting to make sure that I got the best bang for the buck. I do think its very stable. I noticed it and so "oh I think that's ok" but then I started worrying over it haha I just think the motor was moving way to much for a few years.

It was a good deal though. $5400 for the package. Basically brand new galvanized trailer and the engine runs strong.

Thanks
 
LDUBS said:
I agree with Beetlespin. Keep an eye on it but you are most likely fine.

Go fishing. Have fun.

Haha that's the idea! Anyway I went home put the Mercury in shallow drive mode and put my boot on the lower unit. Gave it about 50 good hard press downs and the only thing that happened is the bow lifted off the trailer a bit. I didn't see any transom movement, maybe a fraction of a centimeter.

I appreciate all the help guys
 

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