starboard for mounting tranducers ?

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water bouy

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I can't wrap my head around a Starboard transducer mounting base. I know why I need it but how to you mount a transducer to the Starboard itself without drilling through the transom. Tap and thread the holes?

This link goes into it but I just don't get it:
https://www.smithmountainstriperclub.com/the-boathouse/making-a-transducer-mounting-plate
 
water bouy said:
I can't wrap my head around a Starboard transducer mounting base. I know why I need it but how to you mount a transducer to the Starboard itself without drilling through the transom. Tap and thread the holes?

This link goes into it but I just don't get it:
https://www.smithmountainstriperclub.com/the-boathouse/making-a-transducer-mounting-plate

You mount the transducer bracket to the starboard using screws that are no longer than the starboard is thick. Because of that I would use 3/4 instead of 1/2 starboard. I saw the stern saver product mentioned in the link you provided. It is available at places like Amazon, Cabelas, etc. Cost is $30 to $50 depending on size (I think).
 
Thanks DUBS. I have a leftover piece of 1/2" starboard to use. It sounds like you're saying course wood type screws as opposed to machine screws with nuts. I'll give it a try with some kind of adhesive. Come to think of it, I have a tap and die set around here somewhere.
 
water bouy said:
Thanks DUBS. I have a leftover piece of 1/2" starboard to use. It sounds like you're saying course wood type screws as opposed to machine screws with nuts. I'll give it a try with some kind of adhesive. Come to think of it, I have a tap and die set around here somewhere.

X2 on using course thread screws, and since you are limited to 1/2" go larger diameter screws too. You could always install machine screws from the back (countersinking the heads on the back side of the starboard) but alignment could be pretty tricky.
 
It happens that I did this project a few years ago. I used a Corion substitute but I'd think that Starboard would be the same.

Adhesive 3M5200

On the advice of someone on a boating site, I used a dovetail bit in my router. I cut a half dozen lines partially through the back side of the Corion. Those Dovetail lines allowed the 3M5200 a place to Grab onto.

I sanded the paint off of my tinny where I wanted the board to stick.

Prior to placing the glued board onto the stern, I backed the boat up tight to my garage wall. I bent some flat sticks and cut them to fit (in a bent position) between the garage wall and the boat. These would apply pressure while the 3M5200 dried for a few days. Remember, most transoms angle down and holding the board in place while it dries is paramount.

I slathered a ton of 3M5200 onto the back of the board. The dovetails took up a lot of glue.

I stuck the board on; bent and placed the sticks against the wall and the board, and left it for two days in that position.

That fake Corion is still hanging in there two or three years later with maybe 50 trips per year.
 
Rich - You are a font of knowledge. Great approach to securing Starboard to a transom. My only hope is that you got the ideal location - short of your boat being rear-ended by a school bus - that mounting plate is there to stay!



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I've read about people using a cutting board and industrial strength Velcro strips.

Basically cut the board to size, attach the transducer and then use the velcro to attach it to your transom.

Easy to relocate if needed and apparently industrial strength velcro strips work really well.
 
I will be mounting a new transducer soon. Seems I would be better off gluing a piece of cutting board on the transom to mount to. Should I simply fill the existing transducer holes with 5200 and then place the board over it. I like the idea of cutting some grooves to give the glue more bite. More pics are always appreciated!
 
I wouldn't have any problem filing the holes with 3M5200, but a few guys on here don't like the stuff on aluminum. If you wanted to be triple safe, I guess you could..
#1 prime the area before applying the 3M5200
#2. wrap some tape around a Stainless steel screw that is slightly smaller than the hole(s).
#3 stuff 3m5200 into the hole.
#4 dip the screw into 3m5200 and drive it in. ( the problem with using a screw..with or without the tape etc....is that the screw head would protrude upward and you'd then have to route an indentation into your board to accommodate the screwhead.)

Personally, I'd just stuff the hole thoroughly with 3m5200, and then be sure that a film of 3m5200 covered those holes when you put the board on.

One problem that I had was holding the board against the tilted transom for at least 24 hours. I backed my boat up against the garage wall and put some bent fishing rods on the board to keep pressure on it for a day or so.

re pictures...sorry, but my routed area is firmly glued onto my boat now. I did start the router inside of the edge by dropping it down onto the surface and routed from inside only. That way, no water could get to the grooves after it was glued on. regards, rich
 
All I have is 1/2" starboard so I added a 1/4" piece of acm and it worked out pretty well.
 

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