Old timers formula question

Anybody ever add stain to the old timers formula of linseed oil, mineral spirits, spar urethane?
Or would one be better to stain first?


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I have seen it done on wood that doesn't normally take stain well/evenly. Sometimes it is the only way to get an even finish. I have even seen professionals use dye, but that is out of my league.

I stained some white oak before sealing with old timers formula. I used it make a bench seat for my StarCraft runabout.

Thanks. I have mixed stain with linseed oil before making knife handles. I want to darken the wood a little more than what the formula will. I’m on the fence about old timers anyways. I’ve never used it. I’ll mix up a test batch and try it on a drop piece first.


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Weldorthemagnificent said:

Thanks. I have mixed stain with linseed oil before making knife handles. I want to darken the wood a little more than what the formula will. I’m on the fence about old timers anyways. I’ve never used it. I’ll mix up a test batch and try it on a drop piece first.


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An oil based stain, yes? I suspect a water based one would not play well with the old timers ingredients. I look forward to hearing how it works.

lckstckn2smknbrls said:

I stained some white oak before sealing with old timers formula. I used it make a bench seat for my StarCraft runabout.

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I used Varathane brand oil based stain.

I mixed up my formula and added a half part stain. Both stain and spar urethane are minwax. Everything mixes together fine.
Test piece is a drop from the seats that we used to set the planer. I didn’t sand it.
The stains didn’t darken as much as I thought it might but it’s not that dark a stain anyways (early American). So I added some ebony stain I had leftover and did the end of the sawhorse board. Looks ok.
I guess the short answer is Yes. You can add stain to old timers formula. I may just stain the boards first and then seal. That way I have more control over the color. I know I’m over thinking it for this old junker but it’s more about me learning.


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