2009 Bayrunner 15' - Thoughts?

Hello all-

Picked up this boat two weeks ago.

Year: 2009
Model: Valco BR-15 manufactured by Klamath Boats

Planned uses: 90% of time on local So Cal lakes near me; 10% bay fishing/cruising in ocean
mostly myself and son, or 2 adults or 2 adults and son

I have a few questions about beam and floor width.....

Beam at gunnel is 64"
Floor at widest portion is 43"

Is this boat too narrow for its length?
It's rated for 40hp (yellow capacity plate). Seems like high hp for such a small narrow boat.

I'm a big guy at 6' 280#

Boat is manufactured by Klamath Boats but the model is a Valco BR-15. Klamath purchased Valco in early 2000's and according to Klamath, they made this hull for a few years after purchasing Valco.

I've never had an alum boat this small and light (240#)

I purchased it as I wanted something simple, SAFE, practical, easy to launch, and budget friendly.

My hopes are that it can be made comfortable AND SAFE enough to fish in for 6-8 hours a day.

Is comfort AND safety achievable with this boat?
I plan on taking my 13yo son, who is on the Autism spectrum, and want to be sure he is in safe boat. Life vests at ALL times!

Thoughts on this boat?

If I decide to keep it......

Planned mods for comfort AND safety:

flat plywood floor
fill in bow area to create a casting deck, anchor locker, and place for a swivel seat
trolling motor
8, 9, or 15 hp....haven't decided
2 swivel seats on floor between factory alum benches (maybe 1 swivel seat up on bow platform)
1" bow rail from point of bow to 8' back, 8" tall
stern rails about 2' long


Thanks!!

Hello Tin Man. I'll share my thoughts.

For comparison, I had a Klamath 15' Advantage with a side console. Had a 25 HP. The structural build looks almost identical to your BR-15. My old boat had a 74" beam, floors and a decked bow area at bench level height (factory installed). Mine weighed in at 340#. without the side console it would be about 250#.

These are light boats. Because of that they will be "tippy". If you and your son or wife move to one side the boat will rock to that side. If you tried to stand or step on the gunnel you would probably end up in the drink -- unless you are a heck of a lot more agile than I am. Don't mean to be dramatic. Just kind of basic physics. Sure, you can stand and walk around comfortably. Just use common sense. I never felt unsafe in my boat, but I never used it in an unsafe manner.

IMO adding a floor is a good idea cause it will give your son and wife an even surface to step on. Just try not to add any more weight than needed. If you add a raised deck in the bow area, I would not make it higher than the existing bench. I know there are a lot of casting decks at gunnel level. But if you are concerned with maximizing safety/stability, don't make it any higher than needed.

I would not add seat pedestals between the benches. Instead I would put swivel seat brackets on the existing benches. They make padded folding seats that are made with extra capacity for us big & tall crowd. I think you will find this set up to be very comfortable and you are not raising the center of gravity. Of course, you would want a pedestal on the bow platform.

Get power trim if you can. It makes a huge difference. My old boat was rated for 40 HP (30 tiller). Top speed with the 25 HP 4-stroke was 26 mph. It jumped on a plane easily (power trim). Could idle for hours on a gallon of gaso. Frankly, I would probably have found a 40 HP to be a little scary. So, I would say 40 HP isn't needed. But 8 or 9 will be grossly under powered. I would get bigger than 15 HP if budget allowed.

For what it is worth, I grew up around Valco's and think they were considered pretty good boats. Klamath has a decent rep as a builder.

Hope this helps and maybe others with experience in boats like yours will chime in.

LDUBS,
thanks for the advice!

The floor mounted pedestals with seats (between benches) were only going to end up a few inches higher than bench seats. Reason for them is to allow 360 degree swiveling. Rear bench only allows for less than 180 due to rear fuel tank area. Middle bench should allow for 360 as well as casting deck. I need to face the rear of boat for trolling, as I strip flies while Striper fishing.

Thoughts on bench vs floor mounted pedestals?

Casting deck will only be as high as bench seat......just a simple plywood extension forward of bench seat. Will be used as a place to cast and anchor rode storage.

You mentioned your boat was 74" wide......this is 10" wider than my boat!

That's why I am concerned about its tippiness more so than other standard 15' alum boats which seem to have a foot wider beam.

Thoughts on the instability of this 64" wide X 15' long Bayrunner BR-15?

Thoughts on the alum bow and stern rails I am considering?

Thinking about a 10" high rails around bow and 9' back on each side
Rear rails are 2' long and will be placed near rear of boat.
Gap between bow and rear rails is about 3'

Thanks!

Tin Man -- Keep in mind you are not getting an opinion from any kind of expert here.

The floor mounted pedestals with seats (between benches) were only going to end up a few inches higher than bench seats. Reason for them is to allow 360 degree swiveling. Rear bench only allows for less than 180 due to rear fuel tank area. Middle bench should allow for 360 as well as casting deck. I need to face the rear of boat for trolling, as I strip flies while Striper fishing.

You would add a few inches by mounting the swivel brackets and seats to the bench. Sounds like there wouldn't be big difference

You mentioned your boat was 74" wide......this is 10" wider than my boat! That's why I am concerned about its tippiness more so than other standard 15' alum boats which seem to have a foot wider beam. Thoughts on the instability of this 64" wide X 15' long Bayrunner BR-15?

Like I said before, it is a very light boat and will be "tippy", IMO. In general it seems Bayrunner style boats are narrower than some other boats and perhaps have higher freeboard (don't know if yours does). The 17' and longer ones seem to be popular around here.


Thoughts on the alum bow and stern rails I am considering?

I had bow rails on mine and liked them a lot. Mine were maybe 4" high. I think adding the rails is a good idea.


Suggest you take it out as is and run it through the paces. That way you will be completely comfortable with how it handles and meets your needs.

Yes keep the center of gravity LOW.....
No pedestals......swivel mounts directly to the bench seat tops.
Swivel mounts with steel ball bearings rust......find the type with nylon bearings. Mandatory if using in salt water.
After 10 years of use in only saltwater......they still swivel fine.

https://www.eastmarine.us/marine_products/Wise_Seat_8WD10_NYLON_BEARING_SWIVEL_360_DEGREE_FLAT_SWIVEL_Seating_Seat_Swivels_Marine_Boat_Products_UPC_085211000100_218792.html?cPath=50000_50019_50974&zenid=cp16qd4g7iuet9gguqcln4uuf6

Thru bolt those mounts with the largest bolts you can and big fender washers on the bottom side.
You're a big guy and you will stress those mounts to the max.
I guarantee you wood screws will just pull out....280# and wood screws don't mix.
I don't have any experience with "cuda" or other clamp on seat mounts.
IMO.....you have to go with the strongest mounting method you can come across.

With manual trim......it's very awkward to be in the seat and reach back to operate the trim settings.
Standing up and reaching back has its own perils also....... think lose your balance if a wake or swell rolls by.
Depending on the weight of passengers and gear, I found a "mid" setting was fine.
If that won't get you on plane easily......change it for the next outing....or if available, a sand beach shallow enough you can get out (and back in) ok and can walk back to the motor.

I used plywood flooring cut to size.....chamfered off to fit the side nicely, with marine carpet glued down.
Adding longitudinal struts under that flooring helps with sagging.
A flat surface to stand up on is miles better than a sloping and extruded surface.
Yes it adds some weight......but it's down low..

A "whale's tail" cavitation plate mounted on the lower unit of the outboard does help some with side to side stability and will help your big man body get that boat up on plane.
https://www.amazon.com/Marine-Dynamics-Hydro-Junior-Stingray/dp/B001F0IMSG/ref=pd_day0_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001F0IMSG&pd_rd_r=WG42XJEQRF8HAQV53RR2&pd_rd_w=QpOFk&pd_rd_wg=UFFZh&psc=1&refRID=WG42XJEQRF8HAQV53RR2&dpID=41vAtLQaQpL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

Side hand holds is a good idea......but keep them low.....remember you have to get in and out of the boat.
Just high enough to grab onto when the boat is rocking.

I owned a 15 Gregor tinny for years......the above setup worked very well for me in exclusively salt water.

Thanks LDUBS and redsnaper for the tips and advice.

Yes, on the nylon bearings or SS.....didn't even think of that.

I know the 8hp may be way underpowered, but I appreciate the cost and weight. Many used ones (4 stroke required for my uses) on the market for about $1K

I believe I'll settle for a 15hp.....trying to find a used one with long shaft, electric start AND power trim will be nearly impossible!

Found a 2003 Honda 15hp with electric start and power trim but it was an X-Long shaft (25"), which I believe is way too long for my 20" transom

New ones are $3K!!!!!