87 tracker transom help

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RoyEttinger

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Hi all, new member and first boat....I purchased an 87 bass tracker pro 16 complete with 87 mercury 35hp and trailer...after getting it home realized the decks and transom wood is rotted, decks seem straight forward...however I know the rear corners will need cut off and rewelded.... I know several have done it, I'm just leery about cutting it without a complete understanding of where/how to minimize time and damage. So if anyone can lay out some detailed instruction for a total noob I sure would appreciate it...thanks, Roy
 
If you get no other guidance (as I don’t know that hull) avoid any SHARP 90-degree corners, they serve as stress risers.

-If 2 cuts are to meet, drill a 3/16” to 1/4” hole at the end of the cut and have both cuts terminate on the circular feature.

-Do NOT use pressure treated wood in your rebuild!

-Any tin surface should be cleaned, prepped & primed before finishing or adding any sealant (3M 5300) over or on it.

-Watch out for silicones, as the curing agents in them attack tin ... there are special silicones for tin, but when in doubt - avoid them unless sure!

-If rebuilding using stainless steel hardware, like through bolts, insulate the SS from the tin w/ nylon washers under the bolt head & SS nut or washer. Even good ol’ cheap duct tape works ... just trim to fit well or it looks like Bubba did it ...

-Measure 2-3X - cut once - and PLAN your rebuild. I also recommend a dry test fit ...

Any pictures you post here will help YOU out immeasurably!
 
This is how she sits now, still wondering why I bought it...lol
 

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Don't think negatively - once you get past this - and you will, you will have a NICE rebuilt boat and one in which you can enjoy YEARS of fun in! I do think that if you go slow and plan your work, that it would be a pretty simple rebuild; surely not as intensive as when I had to replace both the inside & outside tin skins, with rounded chine features at the garboard transition!

That brace between the flat part of the transom top and the corner looks to be reusable. The trim cap can easily be replaced by a piece of U-channel from https://www.grainger.com or other aluminum source.

For those corners, even if needed, pieces oversize by a good 1-1/2" to 2" (where one welded) could be fab'd from 5052 sheet alloy and could be made where they would bolt back onto the hull, where that extension folds down and is bolted to the transom or the topsides/gunnel on the other edge. I mean, just because it was welded in its original form, doesn't mean it needs to be welded at the corners on the rebuild. Now of course you can ... but it isn't mandatory.

And formed or cast aluminum corners, some with grab handles, can usually be found on eBay too. See the pictures of those I just found in a simple search for the terms "aluminum boat transom corner". Now $50 each might not be cheap ... but what is the cost of welding, if you can't do it yourself?
 

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Thanks for the positive...its a little intimidating still...I have a guy that's pretty good with aluminum welding, I just don't want to butcher it...all the aluminum feels solid and looks in good shape, I know none of the rivets leak...it was half full of water when I picked it up...I'm sure the trailer springs appreciated me pulling the drain plug...I just wasn't sure if there was some sort of guide as to where to cut where not to cut, and could the top cap be bent up then back down after new wood is installed...going with marine plywood with epoxy resin coating for transom and decks, a new cover and a spot in the garage so I only have to do it once....
Thanks,Roy
 
RoyEttinger said:
I just wasn't sure if ... the top cap be bent up then back down after new wood is installed.
If 5052 alloy, draw on it with a new Sharpie marker, as the annealing temp is 650-degrees F for 5052 alloy. Some say just use the marker and stop heating it when it burns off or disappears, but I used a special Temp-L-Stik that melted at that temperature whilst using MAPP gas as my 'heat hammer' (torch). A good heavy rubber mallet works well (wear hearing protection ... what :shock: ???).

Now it can be bent easily ... reheat again to bend back, as such alloy air hardens. But CHECK your alloy used please!

...going with marine plywood with epoxy resin coating for transom and decks
If using epoxy (buy from https://www.raka.com - talk to Larry) then good one side exterior ply is fine too. I used 2 pieces glued together, sides with voids to the inside, with voids filled with thickened epoxy (cabosil). Knowing me I probably threw a piece of glass mat in-between too, haha!

Wet the edges well! Heating the wood with heat gun or lying out in sun and only apply the epoxy after a few hours after the temps have cooled, as cooling wood draws in air and moisture (which will be the epoxy). You want those edges saturated well!
 
Made a little progress...I should have asked how much a 35hp murcury weights...apparently more than me a 135lbs...but it's off in 1 peice... After pulling the front and rear decks, finding some heavily saturated foam, animal bones, mouse nest, and chewed wires, I guess from a repair this is going to be a total restoration, so I'll be starting a new thread there....thanks for getting me started in the right direction,
Roy
 
It's a nice overall package, nice matching trailer, original motor... I don't know what you paid but it's going to be a very nice setup after you are done.
 

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