Repainting Aluminum Canoe (Steps for a Newb)

Hello,

I've read a bunch of posts here regarding this but still have some questions:

I have a 12' aluminum canoe (SportsPal) that I purchased used (will be using in fresh water only) and would like to reinforce hull and repaint it:

1. I'd like to reinforce the hull of the boat with Coat-It. Can I do this right on top of the existing paint job? The paint job is relatively new and not peeling. Previous owner used a zinc chromate based primer and used 3M 5200 on rivets on the outside. Is this a good idea? Can you paint right over Coat-It and would the paint color look the same for areas that are not coated with Coat-It?
2. If I need to strip the paint to use Coat-It what is the best method and products to use (thinking doing the soda blasting method with this product(https://www.ebay.com/itm/BGS-Tools-...chnic+3244&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313) but unsure if this is the best mode). By the way, the aluminum on the boat is very thin (32 gauge) so I want to avoid damaging it at all costs)
3. Is it okay to paint over a pre-existing paint job if the previous paint job is holding up, and if so, what paint should I use?

Thanks for everyone's feedback!

smithmal

Absolutely. If the existing paint is adhering well, give it a scuff with sandpaper and paint right over top. As for the coat it, I’ve never used it. If it’s not leaking and you just want to pretty it up, Rustoleum with hardener added is tough to beat for a budget paint job.


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Thanks for the response. What hardener and what type of Rusteoleum paint would you suggest?

Thanks,

smithmal

In America valspar makes a hardener available at tractor supply among other places. In Canada, proform hardener from Napa auto parts. Regular Rustoleum (Tremclad in Canada)


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Thanks for the reply. I really appreciate the advice. What ratio of paint to hardener should I use? It's a small canoe (12') so I intend to brush rather than roll/spray. Also, what grain sandpaper would you suggest to use?

I’m in Canada and used proform. I think it was one ounce per 8 of paint. 4” foam roller works good as well. 220 is good grit for scuffing if you’re not removing and flaky stuff. Wear respirator or paint outside it’s the hardener that has isocyanates.

This video was very helpful when I repainted my aluminum boat
click on the link below. I'd recommend turning down the volume (the music on the video is annoying, but the information is great)

https://youtu.be/_qPJTTRWttQ

As far as how much hardener to add--the instructions are on the can of catalyst/hardener.

I used 0.5oz of hardener(Tractor Supply Majic brand) to 14oz of paint (Rustoleum) + 1oz of mineral spirits (thinning agent) for roll and tip

With the final coat of paint, I doubled the amount of hardner/catalyst. So the last coat I used 1.0oz of hardener/catalyst to 14oz of paint and 1oz of mineral spirtis

uttexas said:

Was in a time crunch, and the local stores were sold out of the Parkers, Hunters, and Duralux OD green.

With some internet research and mixing some colors, this recipe worked really well--almost perfect match for my Lowe Roughneck. Rolled and tipped. Brushed in those tight places around the transducer/etc

6oz Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer
6oz Rustoleum Hunter Green oil based enamel
2oz Rustoleum Almond oil based enamel
1oz mineral spirits (would have used acetone if cooler temps)
0.5oz enamel hardener/catalyst

Of course sanding down to metal in parts and Rustoleum bare metal primer in those areas, let it dry, then wet sand the entire boat with 400, wipe it down with mineral spirits, allowing time between coats, and wet sanding between coats with 800 grit, etc.

If you want more green, just add more of the Hunter Green: want more brown add more Rusty Metal Primer: too light, use less Almond, etc.

Pics of paints and after 4 coats

Click to expand...

I have owned this 18ft Grumman for over thirty years. Every once and a while I like to give her a new look. Here is how I did it this time.

1. Stripped interior and exterior, paying close attention to the rivets and seams. No paint remover on rivets or seams, only wire brush and cup.

2. Scuffed entire canoe with 220 grit wet paper.

3. Filled any screw holes or dents with Marine Tex (love this stuff, way better than JB Weld in my opinion).

4. Applied three coats of Interlux Pre Coat high build primer via foam roller. This primer is excellent for filling dents and scratches. Light wet sand between coats.

5. I shot the exterior with Rustoleum Rattle cans! Yup, sure did. Flattened each coat out with wet paper, applied many coats as canoes take a beating. After I taped off and shot the stencils on the bow and beam, I shot them with Black Spray paint.

6. Applied three coats of Clear, waiting twenty minutes between each application and allowed the clear coat to cure in the Florida heat for a week.

7. Cut the clear with rubbing compound to even it out.

8. Waxed the crap out of her with carnuba paste wax.

9. Used Rustoleum white topside paint on her interior, rolled and tipped.

I have ordered roto molded seats for her and am making some modifications to her, so I won't show the interior until complete. But this might answer some of your questions. Paint is solid as a rock!

Thank you for the clear and concise steps. I’ll be painting my Alumacraft soon and will use your post as a guide. Thanks!


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I have painted a lot of fiberglass canoes with porch enamel with good results.
Why do you want to use this Coat-it product?
Aluminum is plenty strong so you do not need to "re-inforce it."
I have painted my aluminum power boat with rattle cans of enamel.
Painting boats in only complicated if you want it to be.
I have used epoxy enamel and it is a pain in the butt. It costs a lot.
Use some normal paint and just get started.
If you use your boat a lot the paint will get some scratches in it. You want a simple way to keep it looking good.