Need a recommendation for where to buy deck(carpeted) screws

I am about to carpet the deck/floor wood and realized I don't have a plan for how to screw the deck and floor back down.

The screws used before were rusted junk. I didn't save any of them.

I assume I should use SS screws.

Any recommendations of where to buy them?

Thanks.

Friend just put his new wood floor down using counter-sunk head 'blind' rivets.

See: https://www.rivetsonline.com/blind-rivets/open-end-blind-rivets#3

I use stainless steel deck screws. You can get them from any of the big box stores or any hardware store.

Stainless truss head, you can get them from Fastenal

I used more than 400 stainless fasteners in my restoration project. Most of them came from https://www.boltdepot.com/Catalog.aspx

Order them today in my mailbox in a day or two, most cases. Cost less than Fastenal or big box stores.

Why screws? They will loosen up over time as the teeth ‘cut’ more into the aluminum ribs?

Why SS fasteners? Hope you guys aren’t running your boats in saltwater ...

Dale, why would a person use rivets to hold down wood?

eshaw said:

Dale, why would a person use rivets to hold down wood?

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Because screws loosen over time. My Starcraft is at that point now. I have a bunch of SS screws that won't stay tight because the screw has enlarged the hole over time. Trailering the boat seems to be the biggest cause and vibrates the screws loose and saws the hole larger just like Dale said. When I do both of my boats floors over this winter I will use aluminum rivets for sure. Huge improvement.

eshaw said:

... why would a person use rivets to hold down wood?

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Because ...

-They work ...
-Inexpensive to buy, simple to install (OK, screws are easier there ... )
-Aluminum to aluminum won't corrode
-Rivets will pull up tight and won't loosen up like a SS screw into an aluminum rib will (not 'if', but 'when'), where the screw 'teeth' will gradually open up the hole.

People can do anything they want, not saying 'my way is the best way', just that I personally wouldn't use the methods you guys may use, that's all. I'll readily admit that I have a STRONG bias against the use of screws on a boat! I've seen SS screws loosen up and tear out of fiberglass covered decks in CC fishing boats ... so I am really not a fan of a 'screw' to hold anything on a boat, when I can either thru-bolt or rivet.

Many OEM floor are secured this way (rivets), as was my friend's where he's replacing the floor as the previous owner never covered the boat and let it sit full of water, so the wood rotted.

I have a question regarding using rivets for this.

If the wood is 1/2" and carpeted. You are looking at thickness of 5/8" plus the thickness of the metal below the wood for the minimum length of the rivet.

So, for the sake of discussion lets say that comes to 3/4". How long should the "grip range" of the rivet be for this sort of application? How much extra do you usually add? Would I need 1"?

I hope that made sense.

Thanks for the reply Dale. I'd have never entertained the idea of using rivets myself!

and pray you never ever have to pull up your deck for whatever reason because you'll be drilling rivets for a long time.so you better be sure all your cabling,plumbing and stuff are where you want it to be and pray you don't need to rebuck a rivet either.

bcbouy said:

... and pray you don't need to rebuck a rivet either.

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... you don’t re-buck blind rivets ... :roll:

think it through.it'll come to you.here's a hint. most tinnies are constructed one of 2 ways.one is welded.

I'm with bcbouy.

I have just used exterior deck screws.

Most of the factory deck screws on my 84 Tracker V17 were galvanized. It spent most of its life outside, the decks were completely rotten. None of the screws were corroded in the aluminum, some were rusty from constant contact with wet wood. If they lasted that long, that's good enough for me.

Rivets are a pain unless you have a good riveter (air or cordless), then they are a godsend.

I used SS sheet metal screws. I don't leave it out in the rain so hope corrosion is minimal. I drilled pilot hole on small side so there is plenty of torque retension just in the wood. Whatever you use, put the fasteners in after-carpet for the inevitable day when you need to pull the floor up.

i was rooting thru c/l looking for boat parts and came across someone selling pyi floor anchors.never even knew something like that existed.wish i saw them when i was doing my g3 build.

Girevik said:

I am about to carpet the deck/floor wood and realized I don't have a plan for how to screw the deck and floor back down.

The screws used before were rusted junk. I didn't save any of them.

I assume I should use SS screws.

Any recommendations of where to buy them?

Thanks.

Click to expand...

You could try one of the pontoon supply sites. https://www.pontoonstuff.com/collections/all-products/pontoon-deck-hardware The stainless steel deck bolts are awesome. Just finished rebuilding my pontoon.

This is another site I used. https://www.pontoonspecialists.com/hardware-store/nuts-bolts

The wood flooring in my 1976 Starcraft and my 1961 Acecraft are both factory riveted.