River Jon Oar Towers

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mattb

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Looking for input on who has set up their aluminum boat for drifting in rivers. I am aware of the oar towers from adipose ($350) but was wondering if there were any other options. I haven't been able to find any others, but if you are aware of other ideas I'd greatly appreciate it.
 
Those are Way Overpriced!

You may need to do a small mods on your gunnels, weld a plate or tube with a welded gusset brace. If you are in tough river water, I'd suggest you weld a short length of bare frame tube on top of your gunnel, you can slit it longways and get some support and mounting points. It's good to use the clamp-ons because you need to be able to adjust until you find the sweet spot that fits the row pivot point and correct proximity to your seating.

I'll look for one on this site, think it's posted in "fly fishing jon boat" posts with pictures. The member has a bunch of pics on instagram of his set up 1648 and guides south of Austin TX.


I use these: https://www.nrs.com/product/91040.02/nrs-frame-6-oar-mount

https://shop.clavey.com/steel-hd-oarlock-stand---bolt-on-p1332.aspx

https://downriverequip.com/shop-products/oar-tower-rainbow-bases-w-pins-pair-/

https://www.ebay.com/i/253689565402?chn=ps
 
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=42031

Member Twc4 1648 jet.

Also, NRS, Koffler Boats and Hyde Boats will fabricate what you need, they all have frame shops with Koffler making a bunch of power sleds.

Your oar leverage will only be as good as the stiffness of the mounts, and drilling holes in a round gunnel rail can weaken it.

NRS has any length of tubing that is correct dia for the base of stand to accept the foot and clamp.
 
Here's a pic of a boat like I row. Getting the tower the correct angle and and rise above the seat and gunnel are important. That's why I like the adjustable NRS style.
 

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Here is a way to make a good strong mount.

These are available from NRS.com.

2 pieces 3ft of 1 5/8" tube= $36 They will cut it and de-burr the ends.

Pair of 6" oar towers comes with flat bottom stainless clamps= $75

Pair of oar locks = $78

Weld a rolled piece 1/2" plate (an upside down U about 3" long) of aluminum to front and back where you want the side rails onto the gunnel, that's unless you have a flat gunnel. This will create a spacer so the tower clamp can be slid along the tubing. Then weld the tube to the two U-shaped spacers. Now you have a re-enforced stacked gunnel rail. There is enough length to use for strapping extra gear onto the rail too.

Mount the oar towers loosely and put your oars in the locks. Sit where you plan to row and adjust the angle and length to your seat, I used to use a middle cooler as my row seat. I keep my oar handles so there is about 4" between my hands/fists sitting with oar blades flat to the top of water line. That puts the oars in a comfortable position with the oars handles about to the top of your legs at your lap. Then make final adjustments to comfort and tighten mounting u-bolts to rails.

I do not use oar rights as you can't feather your stroke. Use the correct length of oar shaft. The folks at NRS customer service are great about helping to size them right for your boat width. I sometimes use a pair of break down plastic shafts. Makes them easy to stow for travel. Couple suggestions after setting up several boats the past 25 years.
 

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