Rookie here - Looking for advice from you tin boat experts

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Max Power

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New member here, first post. I've been soaking a lot of information up from this site, and am to the point where I am curious for some direct feedback. I have never owned a boat, in fact I grew up fishing from inner tubes on small lakes here in OK. My 11 year old son is a fishing maniac, so I would like to get a starter boat to help foster his enthusiasm. From what I've seen, a reliable tin boat seems like the way to go.

I've been keeping a close watch on the used local boats for about a month now. There appear to be an abundance of Alumacraft 1436s available, with a variety of engines and finishings to choose from. Those boats are carried at Academy here, and seem to be very common. Without jumping above the $3-4,000 range, there haven't been too many other options to choose from in terms of the used boats for sale. There are many "project" type boats out there, but at this point I'm looking for something that is ready for the water - and something we can learn on. Maybe at some point in the future we might decide to further customize or undertake a project. I'm a little leery at the amount of 1436s available, does that mean people like me buy them to start and quickly grow out of them / want an upgrade?

I've seen a few folks mention concern about the width of a 36 inch tin boat. Like I said, my son and I are total boat amateurs and safety is one of my main priorities as we start out. We'll likely be staying pretty close in, mostly small lakes and coves, which is what i'm familiar with. What are your thoughts on a very basic 1436? Most of them still have the basic setup, some don't even have seats added, much less platforms or anything else too fancy. I've seen anywhere from 4-9.9 HP outboards pretty commonly. We are here in Central OK, it's a windy place and although I don't plan on getting caught out in the middle of any big lakes, I can hear the wind howling outside my window as I type this.

Finally, there is a Tracker Grizzly 1448 with a 25HP Yamaha and a higher end trolling motor, depth finder, and bilge pump that just popped up for $4,000. Originally I was thinking about trying to stay closer to $2,000 (as I have mentioned, I'm really wanting something simple to learn on and then maybe later we can upgrade). However I don't want to go TOO simple at this point and then be ready for something new in 6 months. I've seen folks state they prefer the wider boat, and in terms of stability it is worth it. Should I consider the 1448 or something similar, and steer clear of the 1436s?

Just curious what all you experienced tin boaters think? It's a big decision, and I want to make the right one that is going to allow us to be out on the water without a tremendous amount of hassle. Any advice you all may have is welcomed.

Thanks,
 
if you're not a big man and plan on carrying the boat in the back of your truck without alot of gear and hand launching without a ramp, 1436 should be ok for a starter boat for small lakes.
 
If you really plan on using it with your son (and I would guess at least 1-2 others) then I would keep it at 1448 to 1660. The wider helps with stability with more people. I have a 1652 which works great for me but I would be willing to go down to 1548 but I prefer the 1660 size. You should be able to find a used setup in 1648 to 1652 range for $3-4K. It might take some time but keep searching different key words like Lowe, Grizzly, Alweld, SeaArk or Sea Ark, Alumaweld, Alumacraft etc. Don't limit your search or you might miss some good options. I got my Lowe 1652 with a 40 hp prop motor with trailer for $3K and sold the prop motor and found a jet outboard. You want to be comfortable fishing and moving around in the boat or your son won't have fun. You can search jon boats but a lot of them are small so don't limit it to that. If you see something interesting and aren't sure of the value, post up the information and pictures and people will offer up some good feedback. Here's my current setup which I now have about $4K into with the trailer.
 

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I have fished 4 up in a 1436 many many times. Thing is, ya better be mindful of where the weight is and how much of it. And you can't move around much. They get cramped quickly. If you put a front casting deck on it like a lot of people do, the center of gravity goes way up and the boat gets really tipsy, and on a 1436 I generally recommend against the practice for that and other reasons. I've had them like that and didn't think it was much problem....BUT...once you step out of it and into a 1448 1542 or 1548 (or 1552, etc). you realize how unstable it really was in comparison. That said, a 1436 is fine for beginners; you'll learn the basics, and you'll learn how and where to load the boat, and how it reacts to different situations such as currents, waves, wind, etc.

Resale on a 1436 is fairly low unless it's REALLY nice and you find the right buyer, so keep that in mind as well. A 1542 will resell for considerably more than a 1436, and it also depends on the brand and it's construction. A welded boat will a lot of times resale for what you paid for it-or more in some cases. A welded 1436 will sell for more than a riveted 1542 or 1548, usually. Case in point, I bought a 1542 Grumman (riveted) several years ago. Came with diamond city trailer w/new 13" tires on rims, trolling motor, battery, 3 seats, Yamaha 4 stroke 25hp outboard, carpeted, floored, and oh yeah 2 fishing rods, $1400. Kept it for a couple months until a war eagle 1548 popped up for sale on clearance (new)-which is what I wanted to begin with. Sold the Grumman on the trailer with 2 rods, a basically dead battery...kept the motor & trolling motor, for $1700, then sold the trolling motor for $150, and the boat/trailer were sold the same day I listed it...which made me think I didn't ask enough for it.

Also....there were a TON of 1432's and 1430's out there as well and those get really tipsy. I've had several for pond hoppers, throw it in the back of the truck, go to work, dunk the boat in the lake on lunch break, go back to work, etc. Grab a tape measure and measure the bottom of the stern when you're looking.

Alumacrafts are cheap boats. Keep that in mind. Thin aluminum, all riveted. They do the job just fine until you snag a rock or a stump and realize how easily it dents and/or begins to leak. But again, they're budget-minded entry level hulls that Academy loves to sell because they can get them by the truckload for basically dirt cheap. They are about the same as a lot of the budget-minded tracker and lowe boats and quite a few others.

Also be mindful of the laws in your state. Here in Arkansas, if the hull length is more than 16', you've got to carry a throwable PFD, a fire extinguisher, horn, and a bunch of other stuff. That's why a 15' is so common here. It's not a big deal to have to carry the stuff with you and possibly insure a 16' boat (where a 15' might not need insurance), but that stuff tends to take up more space in the boat and also adds additional costs. Worth mentioning.
 
Everything said above. "gee I wish I had got a smaller boat" said no man ever! The 1436 are ok for small water if you sit on the benches. If you want to stand, wider for sure, longer if you can. I run an older v-hull 16' and 2 fat guys can move wherever we want and feel plenty safe. Don't be afraid to run an older engine if it has been taken care of. My 1983 Johnson 35 has earned my trust. Good luck in your search!

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We have 2 boats. For years, my (now) 12 year old and I have fished out of a 1232 jon boat. We use a trolling motor to get around the freshwater lakes here. Most lakes are 20 acres or less. It can feel a little tippy but we've actually taken it out in our swimming trunks to see how difficult it would be to roll it over. It's is suprisingly difficult. I'm a big guy and he's one of the biggest 12 year olds in his school. It would be much easier to fall out of our little boat than to tip the boat.

That said, it's too small a boat to comfortably stand up to cast. I prefer to sit anyway but not everybody does.

Our "big" boat is a 1754. That boat is rock solid on the water and we got it with a 40hp outboard for close to your max number of $4,000. But, I then I'm put at least another grand into fixing it up the way I want it.

I've been on a friend's 1648. It doesn't feel tippy to me at all.
 
Regardless of what width boat you buy, always wear a PFD, look at the weather forecast before going out, carry your charged up cell, & let someone back home know your float plan.

Then have a fun time on the water!
 
Back in my young and dumb days I ran a lot of small 14' boats with a 10 horse in rougher water and with more people than I should have. It all depends on how disciplined your son is and how coordinated you and your buddies are. I have a 1860 console with a 40hp and it's perfect for me the wife our 4 dogs and our son. It will plane out and run low 30s. Eventually I do want to upgrade motors to 60-75hp as it's rated for a 90 Small enough I can trim the motor up and get in less than 1' of water, but big enough it's not tippy and wind doesn't mess me up too bad. Having lived in Moore/Del City for 3 years I know the wind you're talking about and would suggest at least 16' or longer and at least a 52" or wider bottom. It will be tough to find a 1860 under $4k but they may be out there. Let me know if there are any other questions on a 1860.
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For that size of boat the weather is everything. You can go out on big lakes no problem and have a blast. What area are you in? I have bought a 1642 1982 alumacraft for $1500 and a 2009 tracker 175 for $1600 but both needed work and some money for repairs and upgrades...

I would also say that v bottom boats tend to be lower resale value but may very well fit all your needs. Sometimes because they are older as not as many new ones are made but you can find a newer outboard to go on a older boat and still have great reliability.

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Thanks for the replies, good stuff so far. I am in Central OK, Edmond (North OKC) metro area. I plan on heading to lakes North and NE of here primarily.

I am going to see the Grizzly 1448 tomorrow just to get a start. Again, as a total novice, are there specific things I should look for? Should I require to see the engine run in a barrel? Is it customary to ask to have the seller take us out just to do a water test? For $4,000 asking price I don't want to be too demanding, but also want to conduct a thorough enough evaluation. I just want to make sure I don't walk away with problems, you know the "buyer beware" adage.

Thanks all,
 
At a minimum run the engine in a barrel or on muffs. Good measure to bring about a gallon of gas (just check to see if 2 stroke or 4 stroke). If the guy is willing to do a water test offer up $20 for gas for tow vehicle and boat gas (my opinion). To me the more the seller is willing to demonstrate and run you through the more confidence I would have in it being a quality product.

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Also, although it won't have the "factory built in" storage the 2019 models have, a new 2019 grizzly and trailer will be over $4k. Also a new 1542 or 1436 tracker trailer 9.9ML4S and the cheapest 12V trolling motor from Bass pro and low end bilge pump will also be over $4k. Depending on the age of engine and overall condition of the boat $4k isn't a bad price to me.

For comparison - my 2004 1860 on a 2004 trailer with a 2002 ELPT4SBF 40hp and 24V 65# trolling motor was $9k when bought in 2017. New rig of that nature about $18-20k.

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Definitely ask to see the motor run either in a barrel or with muffs but an on the water test to make sure it runs fine at speed is preferred. I always offer a water test when selling and I had a motor act up one time and wouldn't run full throttle. It took me a couple of days to figure out a linkage problem and then the guy came back for another water test and ended up buying the boat. Check the battery to see how old it looks, see if there is a bilge pump set up already, see what the fuel tank setup looks like, check if it has working lights, ask about life preservers and pfd's if they're included, see if it has a fire extinquisher, etc. If a seller starts making excuses about why he can't run it, assume there are problems and either walk away or if you're still interested and ready to deal with problems, shoot a low ball offer to let him know it's a big risk without it running.
 
Max Power said:
Thanks for the replies, good stuff so far. I am in Central OK, Edmond (North OKC) metro area. I plan on heading to lakes North and NE of here primarily.

I am going to see the Grizzly 1448 tomorrow just to get a start. Again, as a total novice, are there specific things I should look for? Should I require to see the engine run in a barrel? Is it customary to ask to have the seller take us out just to do a water test? For $4,000 asking price I don't want to be too demanding, but also want to conduct a thorough enough evaluation. I just want to make sure I don't walk away with problems, you know the "buyer beware" adage.

Thanks all,

Max Power, how did you make out with this? Any update?
 
I sold a 14 ft with the works and as a salesperson selling i offered to show that everything worked & stated if the boat leaks bring it back that was two years ago, I guess it didn't(y) leak! & i really didnt expect it to either!!! but yeah ask as many questions as you want your the buyer and see what you want run and worked! last thing you want is head aches beleive me !
 
I am always truthfully when selling stuff and they usually sell to the first buyer. But you never know how other people use or treat stuff, so I draw the line at any kind of warranty. It might not leak while you have it, but the way I have saw people handle their boats....it could start leaking after their first outing, if you know what I mean!!
 

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