Best way to seal riveted seams?

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Took my new to me 1950s Lone Star Corsair out for a leak test with my 8 year old son yesterday. Went great! First time in the boat, paddled around for about an hour and a half. Only had maybe 1/4 to 1/2 cup of water come in. Very stable also, able to stand easily on all the benches, decks should be no problem. Great potential for this boat.
I had a few rivets that saw seeping, marked them to rebuck.
I think most was wicking through the seams where the gunnels attach to the bottom. The seams stayed wet, but I couldn’t identify which rivets need tightening.
What’s the best way to seal the seam? Take it down to bare metal and use 3m 5200 along the interior seam?
Any better ideas or methods?
 
Not sure if its the best way but I just did this to a old Lund. I cleaned out the outside seam best I could with a old screwdriver and sanded it so it was shiny then cleaned it with rubbing alcohol. I used a Loctite marine sealant from Menards just on the outside seam and it worked great.
 
Ok, thanks for the input, good to know about that option and glad it worked for you.
I’m thinking inside seam because I will do a false floor with a forward raised deck that will hide the seam.
Is it better to seal from the outside?
Sealing the outside seam does have water pressure to assist in holding the substance in place but is exposed to water friction and maybe occasional scraping.
An inside seam would have hydraulic pressure working to push the substance out, assuming there’s communication. It would be protected for the most part from abrasion.
 
Once you have the seam cleaned you can heat it with a heat gun or blow dryer and apply super glue to the seam. Don't get the seam too hot as you could burn the material in the seam.
 
What kind of material do you think is in the seam this old, rubber?
Will aircraft stripper damage the rubber? I was wanting to use it to strip the hull. The seams aren’t even folded, just lapped and riveted. I’m pretty sure the stripper would get to it if there’s any material in there.CD5A75E6-1133-4CC5-BA3E-F5A515503A06.jpegB48215F9-CD40-4E93-9CD9-530B2808F5DF.jpeg080C44AD-3AB0-4A42-ABC1-DDBC68A94297.jpeg
 
What the original sealer is I don't know. Many people have used Aircraft stripper without issue.
 
After reading the hassles of stripping the entire hull down to bare aluminum, I’m hesitant to commit. Aircraft stripper is harsh on skin, lungs and expensive, Citri-Strip is a lot less effective, the process is painful to ponder on a Monday morning. :)
I may just hit the surfaces with a scotch brite pad, prime and paint.
But before I paint, I’d like to seal the leaks. I will, at minimum, strip the seams to bare aluminum. So I guess my question is, what’s the difference between the fast cure 3m 5200 and the Loctite Marine Sealant?
 
I used the Loctite as it was available and I had used it before with good results. Difference might be more than just brand but Loctite is good. I painted my seam with rustoleam after it cured.
 
I recall previous discussions where guys appleid heat so the sealant will wick into the seams. But dog gone it I couldn't find the previous thread.

Anyway, take a look at Gluvit & Gflex products also. One thing for sure they don't give this stuff away -- it is pricey.
 
I figured I better get started on the paint stripping before I talked myself out of it.
I’m taking the whole boat down to bare metal. Got the aft side of the transom and the transom trim pieces done this evening. Also pulled two of the three benches. Will pull the last bench and start stripping the interior in the am.
I guess I should start a build thread.
Edit- After I practice on the pics. :?
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