Questions on a G3

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coosa

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I have owned various fishing boats throughout my life, but hadn't owned one the past few years. I am retired now and decided to get a boat, and found this 1652 G3 that is a 2010 model with a 50 Yamaha:

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I was looking for a 16' boat with stick steering, and while this wasn't exactly what I wanted, it was close enough. We carried it to the lake and tried it out Saturday and it performs very well. The first thing I noticed was that the trailer bunks are 2.5" short of reaching the transom. It seems likely it was set up this way by the original dealer, so it has probably been riding like this for 9 years. There is room on the trailer to slide everything forward and get the transom on the bunks, but I already have 191 pounds of tongue weight. I'm not sure of the total weight, but I think that is probably over 10%. Is it better to move it forward and increase the tongue weight further, or just leave it the way it is? There is no sign of a hooked hull.

The boat has been in some sort of wreck. I thought at first that a tree might have fallen on it, but it has scrapes all along one side. By far the worst place is this:



All of the damage seems to be cosmetic, but I wonder if anyone has an idea of how to straighten out the dent? It doesn't really bother me, but no doubt it hurts the value of the boat.

Thanks for any ideas. I have owned 2 stick steering boats before, so I am aware of the pros and cons. It works well for the type of fishing I do.
 
Other than the damage you have pointed out, the rest of the boat looks to be in great condition. Accidents do happen. I would insist on a test run, and if everything checks out and you can get it for the right price, go for it! Unless you are still put off by the damage to the gunwale. I think any attempt to repair that rail would make it look worse than it already does.
 
Also, G3 can repair that for you if it really bugs you that much. There's an 1860 G3 CCJ on Syracuse Craigslist right now that had a tree fall on it. G3 replaced the gunwale and if the PO had taken the time to paint it before he posted pics of it, I doubt you would even know it had been repaired. The paint is just a little blistered from the heat of the tig welder.
 
Thanks for the replies; I wasn't clear in my post, but I have already bought the boat and brought it home. I think I got it for a good price, and I think the dent was part of the reason for that. It doesn't bother me, but if someone knows a way to get it out myself I would give it a try.

There were several minor issues with it that make me think that it hasn't been used a lot. The motor moves it faster than I want to go in a stick steering boat, but that is certainly not a problem. This is the first welded boat that I have owned, and it has a different feel than the riveted boats I've had. I'm looking forward to using it.
 
coosa said:
Thanks for the replies; I wasn't clear in my post, but I have already bought the boat and brought it home. I think I got it for a good price, and I think the dent was part of the reason for that. It doesn't bother me, but if someone knows a way to get it out myself I would give it a try.

There were several minor issues with it that make me think that it hasn't been used a lot. The motor moves it faster than I want to go in a stick steering boat, but that is certainly not a problem. This is the first welded boat that I have owned, and it has a different feel than the riveted boats I've had. I'm looking forward to using it.

I don't think that is like a dent you can pull like on a car. That rail is a structural piece of metal. Just get out there and enjoy the boat and the water!
 
Since you asked, I would not move the boat further forward. As you say, you are already probably outside of the generally accepted safety margin for tongue weight distribution. Instead, perhaps you can extend the bunks back so the transom is supported. If you can shift the boat or axles to get the needed tongue weight, so much the better.

It is a nice boat -- congrats. If you don't want to go to the expense of repairing the dent, there is nothing wrong with just enjoying the boat and not worrying about it.
 
Those are good boats. G3 is owned by Yamaha and they don't skimp on quality. The dent is repairable but probably not "cheaply". If it bothers you, fix it. If not, run it. Yes--welded boats "feel" different don't they? But you can't tell that to someone who's never had one. Well you can try but until they've been in one, they don't know.
 
Thanks for the additional replies. The dent doesn't bother me, so I will just live with it. I am not sure if I am going to keep the boat long term, so anything I could do to increase it's resale value would be considered if I could do it myself. It wouldn't likely be worth paying someone for an expensive repair job. I have the thought in my head that I really want a jet boat, but I am gonna use this one a while and hope that thought will go away. :)

Regarding moving it forward, I think that is good advice to not do anything to increase the tongue weight. It pulls really well as it is, and I don't want to change that. I've read lots of warnings to not get the tongue weight too light, but I really didn't know how much is too much.

It appears that I have enough room on the bunks to move them back far enough to support the transom. They are 2x4's with a plastic type covering over them, so I think all I will need to do is to remove the 12 lag bolts holding them in place and slide them back, then drill new holes and reinstall. The only problem is that I will have to get the boat off to do it, and that means taking it to the lake to do the job. It's 100 degrees here every day, so that job will have to wait a couple of weeks.
 
One thing to watch out for is the weight over the tongue. Remember the trailer is just supporting the boat, so if there's a lot of tongue weight, that weight has to be transferred to the trailer. If you move the bunks back, depending on the bunks, they may be moving the support such that the front half of the trailer is in flex. I don't know your trailer but I have seen this on other brands/trailers. Over time and rough roads, it can cause cracking at or near the front of the trailer, near the coupler, winch post, etc. Seen several winch posts cracked from this. The bow roller/vee block should not be supporting a lot of weight, just stopping it from going forward. Is that adjustable? Can you just move the winch assembly a little to get the boat fully supported on the bunks? Jet boat? I have mixed feelings with them. If you're using a jet in anything shallow that has a lot of leaves sticks or that sorta thing on the bottom, you'll hate it quick. I kinda want a river boat with a jet but not sure I want to spend the money on one and then have to keep two boats.

Great looking boat, only thing I don't like is that 2 stroke Yamaha-and that's being really REALLY nitpicky. I love those motors but like the 4 stroke version even better. Run it, enjoy your retirement, and have a great time with it. I sure wish I could retire like right now. Work is killing my body.
 
I can move the boat forward enough to get the transom on the bunks. I think that would increase the tongue weight more, so is that better than moving the bunks back? What is the maximum % of tongue weight that is considered ok?

My truck can handle a lot more weight, so I'm not worried about it. The trailer is really well made and would I think it would handle a much heavier boat.
 
If your tow vehicle can handle the added tongue weight of moving the boat forward on the trailer I'd say go ahead and move it.
Will you still be able open the rear door or tailgate if you move the boat on the trailer?
You need to find out the actual weight of your boat and trailer. Then you want about 10% of that weight to be your tongue weight.
 
My big Sylvan has the factory trailer and it's bunks are a few inches in from the transom. There is no way a hook is happening on this big beast. I think the larger tin boats have a beefier transom and support system for it. Small tin boats definitely need full inline support for the transom, but larger ones may not. Be careful of too much tongue weight on a boat trailer, they are sway prone as it is, more tongue weight may not be a good idea. If it drives well right now, doesn't have signs of a hook happening, I'd be inclined to leave well enough alone.
 
coosa said:
I can move the boat forward enough to get the transom on the bunks. I think that would increase the tongue weight more, so is that better than moving the bunks back? What is the maximum % of tongue weight that is considered ok?

My truck can handle a lot more weight, so I'm not worried about it. The trailer is really well made and would I think it would handle a much heavier boat.

Too much tongue weight is a potential safety/control issue beyond your vehicle's tow rating.

TTodd says shifting the bunks back could change weight distribution on the trailer. I also think you would be OK, but TTodd has a lot more experience than me. So, if that is a potential issue you want to avoid, then simply replace the current bunks with longer bunks on so the transom is supported.

I would not move the tongue weight even further out of the best practices range. I mean, the fix is so simple and inexpensive, why further violate a safety standard. But, that is just me.
 
Thanks for all the additional replies.

It's too hot to fish, so I have been working on all the things that were neglected on this boat. I have replaced a couple of lights, put a new rope on the trolling motor, added a second battery, put new numbers on it, and made several other minor repairs and adjustments. I don't believe it has been used a lot.

I've added up everything on it and came up with a GVWR of 1650, and the trailer is rated at 2000. If the acceptable range of tongue weight is from 10-15%, then that would run 165 to 247, and right now it is 191. There is plenty of room to slide it forward 3" and I would still be able to easily let the tailgate down. I don't know how much tongue weight that will add, but I can always move it back if it's excessive.

I suspect that this boat is made well enough that it probably wouldn't matter, but I have always thought that the bunks should be under the transom.

Thanks for all the help.
 
I moved the winch stand 3" forward and that increased the tongue weight from 191 to 206, so only 15 pounds more. I thought it would increase it more than that, so I think it is ok regarding tongue weight.

But that moves the winch stand and the boat 3" closer to the truck. There is 30" clearance between the stand and the tailgate, so still plenty of room to let the tailgate down. Now I am wondering if there is a chance that part of the boat or trailer could hit the truck in a sharp turn when backing up. Are there any guidelines for minimum clearance, or do you just have to test it and see? If the trailer was set up by a dealer, then he must have had a reason for leaving it as far back as he did.

There is lots of info on the internet about rules for setting up 5th wheel trailers, but very little I can find that applies to boat trailers. I may seem paranoid, but I have found Murphy's Law is always in effect when a trailer is involved. Thanks
 
Your concern with hitting the trailer (or boat) with the truck is a legitimate concern. I like to suggest just going to a big empty parking lot, going forward turn the steering wheel full lock in either or both directions, and stop when you think it gets close. Get out and see how close it really is. If you have clearance at full steer lock, you'll quickly get a feel for it if you have any trailer backing experience. I've done this many times over the years. Also while in that parking lot, you can practice backing the trailer by "aiming" for a parking spot between the lines, and back into it from different positions. After about a half dozen times, you're ready to go to the water. The worst part (at least for me) is backing the empty trailer back down the long ramp around a curve. My F250 4x4 makes it difficult to see the trailer but using the mirrors, it's not hard to judge when to stop the reverse turn and straighten out.
 
Thanks again for the replies. I have lots of experience backing trailers, but not much in setting up trailers with a boat. This is the 7th boat I have owned that had a trailer and outboard, but all the others were set up when I bought them and I have only done minor adjustments to them before.

I'm sure it won't hit anything in normal trailering. But I have found that if something like that can happen, eventually it will. The idea of taking it to an empty parking lot is a good one and I will try that.

Fwiw, I've been involved with 3 trailer wrecks over the years, and none were any fun. The first was in the early 60s when I was just a kid. My dad's homemade trailer came loose for some reason and immediately broke the safety chain. I'll never forget the sparks flying as it slid down the highway, but were fortunate that no serious damage happened.

My first boat that I bought out of college was a bottom of the line model that had a trailer too small for the boat. An axle spring broke one morning and totalled the hull, but the safety chains held so it didn't hurt my truck or anything apart from the boat and trailer.

And then about 10 years ago I had another axle spring break on the way back from the lake. I was very fortunate on that one and was actually able to get back to the lake and leave it at the marina until I got it fixed. I don't want to add another wreck to the list. :)
 
I hav owned 2 g3, 04 1444 and presently own a 18 1756 cc w a 70 Yamaha. Had a tree hit my 1444 , had a dent in gunnel similar to urs. Buddy still using it. Hav had my 1756 for almost 2 full seasons now. Only complaint w boat is I hav 2 livewell I don’t need, use for storage. Love my G3,
 

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