Opinions on Utility V-hulls

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shemstreet

Member
Joined
May 27, 2014
Messages
9
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Location
Waco, TX
I am looking for my next boat. Unless a decent small glass CC pops up for sale, I am looking aluminum basic spray off and go type boats

Need some advice. I am in Waco, TX, so river and 4000 acre lake fishing, maybe a once a year run to the gulf

My brands in the area are Tracker, Alumicraft, and G3. I could go further and get Lowe and Lund, but mainly want to stay in the area.

Tiller steering, one person, mainly trolling with some drifting for cats and casting for bass.

Jon boat or utility V?

If jon boat: 1436, 1446, 1640, 1656? Engine preference?

If Utility V: 12', 14', or 16'? Engine preference?

Jon is easier to get in and out of, V-hull better for waves. Semi V as compromise?

Sorry, I've only owned one 12' jon before, everything else has been fiberglass bass boats or center consoles. Trying to stay cheap and simple, since realistically I am not that great a fisherman. Don't need livewells, as I am a meat fisherman and a cooler with ice is as complicated as needed.

Once I have the basic combination, I can adapt it as needed over the years
 
Depends on how big the bodies of water you fish on are, and if you fish when it's rough. I love my 16' deep vee utility but I am often in big water and never alone. If you never see a wave bigger than a foot, I'd go mod vee. 14' is lots if you are always by yourself. A flat floor and front deck is super nice to have over bench seats.

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My boat is a 14’ deep and wide Lowe 1467. They measure the v’s across the top and Jon type boats across the bottom. If you compare a V 1467 capacity to a flat bottom you’d be pretty close to a 1448. I owned a 1436 Lowe at one time, it was a little narrow and didn’t have very high sides. Not a boat for rough water. I fish either solo or with a partner, rivers and sometimes a big lake. So flexibility is a premium, I give the V Hull a slight advantage over the mod V or flat bottom. A small V hull will handle waves better than a flat bottom, but you have to go slow or it’ll beat you up. But if I didn’t have to deal with lg waves on occasion, a mod V 1448 would be my choice (or 1648 for a couple hundred more) Brand wise, I like the Lowe for a lightweight riveted hull. My Boat is 25 years old, been used hard, and has never leaked a drop. Tracker builders a line of cheap flat bottom boats—toppers. They are not very deep, like my old 1436, and they look flimsy. Not sure how they hold up. Their more expensive welded Jon’s have a rep for breaking welds.
I power my boat with a 20hp EFI Tohatsu. It’ll plane easily with two fat-boys and gear, including trolling motor and battery. Top end is mid 20s (fast enough to get somewhere or get out of the way of a storm) and gets 1.6 gph at full throttle.


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Thanks guys. Keep the opinions coming. River maybe 2-300'wide. Lake 4000 acres. River was dead calm today, shore fishing sucked
 
Flat bottom jons are for rivers and ponds IMO. They're a rough, wet ride, but stable with low draft.

I would be looking at something like the Tracker Grizzly 1648 for all around use. I would take a G3 or Alumacraft over a Tracker though. Mod Vs have really been gaining popularity because they're a good compromise between a Deep-V and flat bottom, essentially replacing the Semi-V.

I had a Semi-V in the past and it was a dry but would still pound the heck out of you in any kind of chop.
 
My two cents: Utility V. Go largest possible boat you can without breaking the bank. If you are talking new then I would think any of the mainstream brand outboards are going to work well for you. Proximity of service shops for the brand should be considered.
 
I run the same waters as you.
My boat is 1960 Alumacraft FD 14 ft, powered by a 1982 Johnson 35 hp. You don’t have to go new, setting it up just how you want it is half the fun.
Here is a video running on the Brazos River north of Waco today 9-15-19.
https://youtu.be/ixKgrLakxPo
I had just installed trim tabs and narrowed the whale tail 2.5 inches on both sides. Boat jumps onto plane and holds plane at all speeds. The V hull gets my vote, Central Texas gets lots of wind.
662B8A1F-B8CD-4983-AD6D-5D36B60FCBE4.jpeg
 
SaltH2Odeprived said:
I run the same waters as you.
My boat is 1960 Alumacraft FD 14 ft, powered by a 1982 Johnson 35 hp. You don’t have to go new, setting it up just how you want it is half the fun.
Here is a video running on the Brazos River north of Waco today 9-15-19.
https://youtu.be/ixKgrLakxPo
I had just installed trim tabs and narrowed the whale tail 2.5 inches on both sides. Boat jumps onto plane and holds plane at all speeds. The V hull gets my vote, Central Texas gets lots of wind.
Have you go any pictures of the inside of your boat? Towards the front?

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This is what I use as of now, I searched a good while and was looking for flat bottom and ran across this. It's a 16' semi V and at the top it's about 70" wide. Have a 15hp Johnson that moves it plenty fast and have added a front mount troller. Very stable all around tin! You can find good deals on these older boats as well!
0d7c21da7468502e803092c8de5a46ee.jpg


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Slimcowboy1978 said:
That is the front of his boat... notice the bow mount trolling motor
Yeah well I was meaning more of the inside of it...

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OuatchitaNick said:
This is what I use as of now, I searched a good while and was looking for flat bottom and ran across this. It's a 16' semi V and at the top it's about 70" wide. Have a 15hp Johnson that moves it plenty fast and have added a front mount troller. Very stable all around tin! You can find good deals on these older boats as well!
0d7c21da7468502e803092c8de5a46ee.jpg


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There are few around here where I live very similar to yours going for $300 to $1200 on cL.. wish I had some cash to drop down on another tin
 
Slimcowboy1978 said:
OuatchitaNick said:
This is what I use as of now, I searched a good while and was looking for flat bottom and ran across this. It's a 16' semi V and at the top it's about 70" wide. Have a 15hp Johnson that moves it plenty fast and have added a front mount troller. Very stable all around tin! You can find good deals on these older boats as well!
0d7c21da7468502e803092c8de5a46ee.jpg


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There are few around here where I live very similar to yours going for $300 to $1200 on cL.. wish I had some cash to drop down on another tin
I'd say anything around 3-500 is a good deal. Right now I'm debating adding a front deck, or maybe just a flat floor throughout not sure what direction I want to go

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Here is photos of front. The deck is framed with salvaged mahogany from an old Lyman wood boat, skinned with 3/8 in marine plywood, coated with Durabak. The deck fits under the front second bench seat, the vertically filler panel under the front seat locks it all into place. This low deck is very stable when standing and the boat sides are high enough to feel secure.
The trolling battery is enclosed in the box the seat is mounted to, inline connectors allow for battery charging and connection to troll motor. Deck lid gives access to storage.
EDCCC576-B247-42C2-81FF-E4293C675C47.jpeg
5A021E9C-CDAE-4D50-8AC1-41D740CED966.jpeg
3C9743AF-7179-4395-9C51-54A684951604.jpeg
 
Unfortunately I did not take many photos during construction, so no images of frame.
Frame is 3/4 in boards turned on edge.
The Alumacraft has two ribs inside each side of the bow (see yellow arrow in photo), right above the rib see the frame sitting on top of rib.
Red lines are where the frame is. The bottom of the back frame board is cut curved to match boat bottom and the two side frame rails sit on top of the ribs.
The two side and the back frame rails are all that contacts boat bottom, remaining frame is above boat floor to maximize storage area.
The back of the deck surface fits under the bench seat, this holds the back down.
The front of the deck is just long enough to extend under the front bench, a vertical filler board screws into place under the bench and holds the front of the deck down.
This was designed and built on the fly, using cardboard to mockup frame rails and deck cutting patterns.
Deck fits tight and is easily removed if needed.
A plastic battery box fits thru the deck, battery supported on boat floor.
Seat support/battery cover box is built with solid 3/4 in wood, biscuit jointed and gorilla glued together.
Angle aluminum at bottom of box attaches to deck with stainless T-nuts under the deck.
Battery can be accessed by removing the box with seat attached.
Synthetic blue rope fills in gaps on the sides, it is attached under the deck using small plastic wire hangers.
5C50C9C8-0404-47B8-85ED-45A7DC990C04.jpeg
 
SaltH2Odeprived said:
Unfortunately I did not take many photos during construction, so no images of frame.
Frame is 3/4 in boards turned on edge.
The Alumacraft has two ribs inside each side of the bow (see yellow arrow in photo), right above the rib see the frame sitting on top of rib.
Red lines are where the frame is. The bottom of the back frame board is cut curved to match boat bottom and the two side frame rails sit on top of the ribs.
The two side and the back frame rails are all that contacts boat bottom, remaining frame is above boat floor to maximize storage area.
The back of the deck surface fits under the bench seat, this holds the back down.
The front of the deck is just long enough to extend under the front bench, a vertical filler board screws into place under the bench and holds the front of the deck down.
This was designed and built on the fly, using cardboard to mockup frame rails and deck cutting patterns.
Deck fits tight and is easily removed if needed.
A plastic battery box fits thru the deck, battery supported on boat floor.
Seat support/battery cover box is built with solid 3/4 in wood, biscuit jointed and gorilla glued together.
Angle aluminum at bottom of box attaches to deck with stainless T-nuts under the deck.
Battery can be accessed by removing the box with seat attached.
Synthetic blue rope fills in gaps on the sides, it is attached under the deck using small plastic wire hangers.
Very nice explanation, thanks you for the insight I'm looking to do something similar

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