Jacking plate to install trim tabs?

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Colorado1135

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I have a Fisher avenger pro 19 and it lists bad to port when on plane. I have a 99 kicker on the stbd side but that doesn't seem to make a difference, moving adults to one side does help. boat sits level in the water so it doesn't make any sense. That aside I've decided to install trim tabs for a better ride, downside is there isn't room where the kicker is mounted. I'm thinking about putting on a mini jacker plate to set it back to make room. does anyone see any issues with this? does anyone have a plate they don't need before I order one? I figured I'd check here after searching the interwebs off and on the last few months. also, if anyone has any suggestions on what kind of tabs to get I'm all ears. TIA
 
How is your steering when on plane? If you let go of the wheel, does it pull to port? If so, maybe you need to adjust the tab on the motor. My boat is the opposite. It lists to stbd while sitting (I thought it was the weight of the cables and wiring causing it) so I have the gas tank and anchor more on the port side but it still leans. But while on plane it seems to pretty level. I was telling my cousin the other day and he stood behind the boat looking at it and noticed the motor is actually mounted off center to the stbd side. I never noticed it, I bought the boat used and changed from the prop motor to the jet motor and never realized it was off center. If your motor is off center it might cause the list, but I would think it list while sitting as well (although your kicker might balance it while sitting).
 
All good points, steering is fine on plane, doesn't pull one way or the other. outboard doesn't have a tab to adjust, it's a mercury 150 2 stroke 99 vintage. It's mounted in the center so I doubt that's it either, only thing I can think of is prop torque or possible hull imperfection although I can't see anything. it's about a 20 degree list as soon as we get on plane so it's substantial, if I can solve it without having to put on a jacking plate or tabs I'd love to do that!
 
When I first read this I thought the same as JL8Jeff. Sounded like the trim tab was out of adjustment. I'm far from anything like an expert. If you have hydraulic steering you might not notice the torque steer at the wheel. Out of curiosity, I did some googling and see that guys talk about replacing the flat anode with one that has a tab. If you can find one that fits and that the prop won't hit then that might be worth trying. But again, I'm only repeating what I read on the internet, so take what I just said with a grain of salt.

If you do add trim tabs, I can't think of why moving the kicker back for clearance would be an issue. I hope you let us know what you eventually do and how it worked out.

BTW, that is a nice boat.
 
Do you have any good pictures showing the motor mounted on the boat and the back of the boat. It almost sounds like something is pulling the boat down on that side like extra drag or something.
 
When you say you have a kicker motor "that doesn't make any difference", I'm not sure what that means. I'm assuming your kicker is lifted up out of the water when you're using the main motor? If not, I could see how lift from the kicker would make the boat list. If I run with my kicker down, I just notice it feels like I'm moving through thick jello.
 
JL8Jeff said:
Do you have any good pictures showing the motor mounted on the boat and the back of the boat. It almost sounds like something is pulling the boat down on that side like extra drag or something.

X2.

Just seems odd that with no trim tab it would be down on the port side if this is related to the prop torque. Unless the OB spins left-wise I guess. Seems like it might be something else.
 
A boat will heel to port because of prop torque. Even my 16 with a 35hp does this. Trimming higher helps it run flatter. If you can't trim higher without porposing, try moving some weight forward to allow for a slightly higher trim. Check results on a calm day as a boat will tilt in a side wind due to having to steer slightly into the wind. Sometimes a higher pitch prop will help as long as you are in your rpm range.

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

 
No my kicker isn't dragging in the water, I meant the added weight of it on the stbd side doesn't make a difference. there is nothing that indicates drag or anything like this on the hull. wondering if at some time it got wet and foam on one side got saturated causing the list underway much like an imbalanced load. I notice the zink anode doesn't have a fin, I'll probably try that first since it would be the least expensive option. I'm planing on doing a full overhaul of the boat in the next year once I get into the new shop. I figured trim tabs aren't a bad add on regardless, and the jacking plate for the kicker wouldn't be a big deal one way or the other. if someone sees issue with anything please speak up. I really appreciate the comments and insight, it's baffled me for the past 2 years since I got it. also, in the last pic, it looks like there was some type of attachment such as a float pod or tab already installed. Anyone recognize the bracket?


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Yeah, try that anode with the fin, that's what I was thinking of. My old Hobie Skiff with a 40 hp prop motor needed that adjusted to get the boat to track straight. I don't think I've ever really had a deep V boat so I'm not sure how much that would affect a lean. Most of my boats have been a flatter bottom or minimal modified V so there was never much lean. If anything, I would think the kicker would cause it to lean to that side.
 
That's what I thought too, that's why it doesn't make sense. haven't gotten the Annode yet but I'll post results when I do
 
Just throwing it out there. When the obvious doesn't present itself I look for stuff that might be outside the box. Have you inspected the hull with a straight edge? I'd look for "hooks" in the hull also. They can cause some bizarre results some times. I've looked at transoms that appeared to be straight, but when I lay a straight edge across them you can spot low spots in them. When you mount a motor to those it cocks the engine off and can cause issues. I see a lot of weird stuff when mounting float pods for example, stuff that at first glance looks normal.
 
I've visually inspected the hull and nothing jumped out at me. regardless even if I do find a slight anomaly I doubt it can be fixed without an extreme amount of effort to physically alter the hull . a trim tab may be required to fix the issue, hence my original post. I'm thinking it's either wet foam on one side, so I could rebuild it a year earlier than I planned, or install trim tabs to correct it now, and have them for in the future.
 
Colorado1135 said:
I've visually inspected the hull and nothing jumped out at me. regardless even if I do find a slight anomaly I doubt it can be fixed without an extreme amount of effort to physically alter the hull . a trim tab may be required to fix the issue, hence my original post. I'm thinking it's either wet foam on one side, so I could rebuild it a year earlier than I planned, or install trim tabs to correct it now, and have them for in the future.

I don't know. I suspect if there were that much weight of wet foam on one side then the boat would not sit level at rest. From what you describe I still suspect it is torque steer happening. You would not feel it at the wheel if your boat has anti-feedback steering. As I said in my initial post, I'm not an expert and wouldn't want you spending money on my say-so, but it just seems a finned anode and/or trim tabs are worth a try.
 
Just went thru this with a 19" skiff. Though mine was 2 fold. 1st, I had a hook on the bottom right side of the hull. Approx .117 that acted like a trim tab. Yes that small of a imperfections can and will effect the balance. And 2nd, my torque tab was offset. IE.. prop torque causing it to list to the port side while running.

My recommendations are 1 - launch boat with no gear and let it settle at the dock. Place a level on the transom with 2-sided tape and look to see if it sets level. If it does then your boat itself is fine, no water in foam or hull. 2nd - if your boat only does it on plane then either its prop torque or an imperfection causing it.
 
You can also try trimming the outboard up. That is supposed to eliminate prop torque. I have PT&T on my boat. It is pretty neat how well the boat suddenly rides when you get the outboard trimmed out just right.
 
Thank you for the tip! I still need to order the anode to try that first, it's the cheapest solution. been too busy with life throwing curve balls that I've just been fishing when I get a chance now that the fish are biting. I'm gonna order one right now, just need to figure out the size!
 
LDOBS very true. Most boat owners do not do this. They will run it down and take off and ride that way. Once you hit the sweet spot you will gain speed because less hull is in the water causing drag and you will save gas because you will run in the optimal RPM range your specific motor. But do not go to high because you will loose water pressure and that can be REAL bad for the cooling system. That why most bass boat and race boat owners watch the pressure gauge when trying to find a prop for their boat.
 

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