Transom plate suggestions?

I'm continuing to run my Smokercraft as-is and have ideas for some "nice to haves" but should probably focus on things that will need attention sooner than later - like bench seat tops (wood) that are peeling and warping, soft transom plate, etc.

My boat has a plywood transom plate that has seen better days; I don't think it is original. I could go with another piece of plywood but would prefer something that will withstand a wet environment better. Materials I'm considering:

- aluminum plate (undecided on thickness)
- Starboard (or similar marine grade plastic, undecided on thickness)
- another piece of painted plywood (this would be my last choice, but easy to fabricate and install)

Inside face of the transom needs some attention too.

Note that my engine is a 9.9HP Merc portable. The biggest engine I would ever have on the boat is a 15HP, so I don't know if that dictates the type of material used.

Thanks!

I would just go with plywood again. It's cheap and easy to work with. If it needs replacing in another 10 years, that's a long time away. Just not pressure treated ply. The copper in the treating chemical will cause aluminum to corrode.

I am going to admit I never fully understood what purpose those plates serve. I'm guessing it depends on the boat. If it just to protect the transom skin then does it need to be replaced at all? If to add structure to the transom then I agree Ply is easiest. I see aluminum used a lot.

I replaced mine with some 1/4” Aluminum plate from McMaster-Carr


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Boats of that era used wood on the outside because that's what hand clamped motors need to be secure. If you notice on most motors there are actually raised teeth that are designed to bite into the wood. You'd be surprised how much torque a motor puts on that connection when it's turned all the way to one side and under full speed.

If you do metal then grind a groove for the teeth on your motor... If the back surface doesn't clamp flush and rides up on the teeth you could be fishing for your motor some day...

Marine plywood (you can get a piece shipped form aircraft spruce and specialty reasonably). I like to encapsulate in epoxy, but that's just me. (disclaimer, I am fairly new to tin boats, but its hard to go wrong with good materials and sealing them up from water)

raven007 said:

Marine plywood (you can get a piece shipped form aircraft spruce and specialty reasonably). I like to encapsulate in epoxy, but that's just me. (disclaimer, I am fairly new to tin boats, but its hard to go wrong with good materials and sealing them up from water)

Click to expand...

I think that's a good solution and it's one that I've seen suggested before. When considering whether to seal wood against water intrusion, I'm also aware that my waterproof coating prevents water from getting in and from getting out. If the piece isn't completely sealed and ends up submerged, I might have caused rot.

Shaugh said:

Boats of that era used wood on the outside because that's what hand clamped motors need to be secure. If you notice on most motors there are actually raised teeth that are designed to bite into the wood. You'd be surprised how much torque a motor puts on that connection when it's turned all the way to one side and under full speed.

If you do metal then grind a groove for the teeth on your motor... If the back surface doesn't clamp flush and rides up on the teeth you could be fishing for your motor some day...

Click to expand...

That makes sense, thanks.

Hopefully anyone with a clamp on motor is using a safety chain. Otherwise the motor might go for a walk! :shock:

maintenanceguy said:

raven007 said:

Marine plywood (you can get a piece shipped form aircraft spruce and specialty reasonably). I like to encapsulate in epoxy, but that's just me. (disclaimer, I am fairly new to tin boats, but its hard to go wrong with good materials and sealing them up from water)

Click to expand...

I think that's a good solution and it's one that I've seen suggested before. When considering whether to seal wood against water intrusion, I'm also aware that my waterproof coating prevents water from getting in and from getting out. If the piece isn't completely sealed and ends up submerged, I might have caused rot.

Click to expand...

On fiberglass boats, we oversize drill the holes, fill with thickened epoxy and then drill again. That way any pass throughs or screws have an epoxy sleeve to prevent end grain infiltration. I just don't know any better than to do it that way. :lol: :lol: :lol: