Rookie's first project- 1648 jon

Boating related questions,small projects, custom work and talk go here.
SlimeTime
Posts: 1300
Joined: 20 Jul 2008, 14:43

Re: Rookie's first project- 1648 jon

Post by SlimeTime » 15 Sep 2008, 22:53

I don't think I'd add anything between the metal. Say you rivet things together, anything between them could allow some movement between the parts, and that movement could either enlarge the holes, or stress the rivets.

As far as seams, incorporate them into the floorplan. If you can run a seam down the center of the front casting deck, then let that be where your hatches open, then you've only got a small section of stationary seam.

ST

RazorBaits
User avatar
bassboy1
Site Sponsor
Posts: 3387
Joined: 29 May 2007, 13:26
Location: Cartersville, Ga
Contact:

Re: Rookie's first project- 1648 jon

Post by bassboy1 » 16 Sep 2008, 06:44

Take a look at my project page to get a better idea of what I am talking about.
http://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=4077
I think there are more pictures in my other thread, that has worked its way back in the boat conversion section, if you want to search for it.

Because my ribs are 16 inches on center, and the .090 wasn't strong enough to span that distance, I used 1 x 1 square lengthwise down the hull at a closer spacing to rivet the sheet too. I bought all of my aluminum from the scrapyard used (cut offs from companies that scrap them, sheets that people no longer need and want out of their barn etc.), I had to put some seams in the deck. At each of these seams, I cut pieces of the same material, 2" wide, and riveted it underneath the seam, with 1" touching each piece.

I wouldn't put any rubber or anything under it either. Aluminum work hardens, so every time it flexes with the rubber mounting, it is weakening. Plus, the deck actually will provide more strength to the hull (jons only have side to side stringers - nothing front to back like larger hulls, so the deck will help a bit with flex there). Rubber mounting it will undo any help that the deck would provide to the boat's integrity.

canis521
Posts: 18
Joined: 15 Sep 2008, 17:17

Re: Rookie's first project- 1648 jon

Post by canis521 » 16 Sep 2008, 10:41

Thanks for all the info everyone.

Bassboy1- great pictorial of your build. What is it about the carpet work you found you hated?

I was thinking my next step should probably be painting so any further advice let me know. To start with I would like to remove the stickers- any solvent work or do I need to be cautious with a reaction to aluminum?

canis521
Posts: 18
Joined: 15 Sep 2008, 17:17

Re: Rookie's first project- 1648 jon

Post by canis521 » 16 Sep 2008, 11:02

Also anyone have a picture or diagram of an easy to build (prefer wood) motor stand?

User avatar
smoody
Posts: 98
Joined: 10 Sep 2008, 12:40
Location: South Carolina

Re: Rookie's first project- 1648 jon

Post by smoody » 16 Sep 2008, 12:54

Depending on outboard size, you can just use a wood sawhorse
Image

User avatar
bassboy1
Site Sponsor
Posts: 3387
Joined: 29 May 2007, 13:26
Location: Cartersville, Ga
Contact:

Re: Rookie's first project- 1648 jon

Post by bassboy1 » 16 Sep 2008, 18:37

canis521 wrote: What is it about the carpet work you found you hated?
The fact that no power tools are involved. :shock: :lol: :lol:

No, not really - no power tools are involved in electrical work, and I do like that. There are a couple things I hate about it. First of all, and most importantly, was the gluing. If it could be stapled, I would have liked it better, but there were no wrapping capabilities, and no stapling. Everything had to be measured precisely, and trimmed perfectly before it was attached in any way. Not to mention, the glue was a total pain. On a porch or something with wide space, it would not have been a problem at all, but the spaces are just real small, with tight radiuses. The biggest mistake I made was carpeting inside the hatches. I should have used something else in them, because the deck carpeting wasn't that bad, and the lids have an easier method - I just didn't employ it.

canis521
Posts: 18
Joined: 15 Sep 2008, 17:17

Re: Rookie's first project- 1648 jon

Post by canis521 » 16 Sep 2008, 20:34

I am not too excited about working withe carpet either. Hydroturf sounds like great stuff with the caveat that once the adhesive is in place there isnt much to correct errors- and carpet is a bit cheaper.

The ribs on my boat are 12" on center so I will factor that for thickness. I have stainless steel sheets at work that would be plenty to finish this, what are the thoughts on using stainless? Is weight a factor? Not sure the difference. The good thing is they are paid for.

Every time I look at this thing I think of something different. Hopefully I get it mostly right the first time.

I am thinking of removing the built out portion of the inside of the hull- it looks like its only function is to attach the rod holder, and the controller near the console.
Console.JPG
Rod holders.JPG
I would need to drill out the rivets that go through the hull; what is the best way to fill these holes? And prep for painting?

Do you think this would push the console to close to the controller (to the right, thinking my shoulder may be hitting the controller)?

Thanks once again.

User avatar
bassboy1
Site Sponsor
Posts: 3387
Joined: 29 May 2007, 13:26
Location: Cartersville, Ga
Contact:

Re: Rookie's first project- 1648 jon

Post by bassboy1 » 16 Sep 2008, 20:50

canis521 wrote:
I would need to drill out the rivets that go through the hull; what is the best way to fill these holes? And prep for painting?
More rivets. You can get them at Grainger, or grainger.com, as well as aircraftspruce.com. If you have access to an air chisel, buy a rivet tip for it. They are on ebay all the time. On one side, you hit it with the air chisel, and on the other, you get a friend to hold a steel chunk, or a hand sledge up against the back of the rivet. Or, use a hand sledge or large ball peen hammer on both sides (one holding, one hitting). We put about 30 rivets into holes in my hull where I drilled them out to pull out side panels.

User avatar
Deno
Posts: 6
Joined: 13 Sep 2008, 22:12
Location: San Diego California

Re: Rookie's first project- 1648 jon

Post by Deno » 17 Sep 2008, 05:04

I’m restoring an 18 ft …. I’m going with marine plywood and epoxy.. Then non skid on top.. Deno

Klamath7.jpg
Klamath8.jpg
WhateverSheSaysSoLongAsICanFishandhunt

canis521
Posts: 18
Joined: 15 Sep 2008, 17:17

Re: Rookie's first project- 1648 jon

Post by canis521 » 17 Sep 2008, 21:29

Deno- I am curious on your progress, keep us updated.

I looked at the wiring today- I think it may be best to start over.
Wiring Nest.JPG
Fusebox.JPG
Switches.JPG
I am not sure if I want to keep the console as is or not. I see some on the forum have standing consloles, any feedback on those would be appreciated. I also need to replace the housing for the steering cable, I assume I should be able to get that at any boat supply place.

Slow but steady progress.

User avatar
ben2go
Posts: 2806
Joined: 20 Aug 2008, 22:13
Location: Upstate,South Carolina

Re: Rookie's first project- 1648 jon

Post by ben2go » 18 Sep 2008, 00:07

I would replace the fuses with circuit breakers.If you pop a fuse,you may not have one handy and circuit breakers can be reset.Another thing I would do is use GM style weather pack wiring connectors.The ones with the little bellows on them.Just some ideas I had for a future project,maybe they'll work for you.

canis521
Posts: 18
Joined: 15 Sep 2008, 17:17

Re: Rookie's first project- 1648 jon

Post by canis521 » 18 Sep 2008, 19:26

Okay I got all the wiring cleared out. What is the best (easiest) way to start the wiring. Again I am pretty illiterate when it come to wiring. Does anyone know of a web site that will give step by step instructions for wiring the boat.

What I am looking to wire would be (let me know if I am missing anything or any other ideas):
1) electric start
2) navigation lights
3) there are 2 courtesy lights- one on the side of the console and one on the bow directed toward the casting deck
4) fish finder
5) 12vdc plugs- one on bow, 2 at console- for handheld GPS, dog collar chargers, coffee maker (just kiddin')
6) bilge
7) wire for bow lights- I don't have the lights yet
8) I forgot to mention the speedometer and tach- I suppose they are there might as well use them.
9) and at least wire for trolling motor (it did come with one that had a bent shaft- can this be replaced- but only 25# thrust, which I would think is undersized for this boat)

I currently have one battery, would a second be needed?

Any help with materials needed would be appreciated also.

Thanks again everyone.
Last edited by canis521 on 19 Sep 2008, 12:43, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
ben2go
Posts: 2806
Joined: 20 Aug 2008, 22:13
Location: Upstate,South Carolina

Re: Rookie's first project- 1648 jon

Post by ben2go » 18 Sep 2008, 20:43

What about trolling motors?I would do 1 battery just for engine and it's instruments,and 1 battery for everything else.If you have a trolling motor,I would add an extra battery to extend your run time.

canis521
Posts: 18
Joined: 15 Sep 2008, 17:17

Re: Rookie's first project- 1648 jon

Post by canis521 » 19 Sep 2008, 12:47

I think I will go with an extra battery. I think I am slowly starting to understand the wiring- of course I haven't actually started it yet. It really is making me feel kinda stupid. Probably a lot easier than I am making it seem.

I am going to run to Cabelas this afternoon and try to get what I need. Hopefully there will be someone knowledgeable enough to walk me through this.

User avatar
ben2go
Posts: 2806
Joined: 20 Aug 2008, 22:13
Location: Upstate,South Carolina

Re: Rookie's first project- 1648 jon

Post by ben2go » 19 Sep 2008, 14:32

12V wiring isn't to difficult on a boat.Just keep it simple and use circuit breakers rated for amps the equipment requires.Size your wire to the amount of amps each piece of equipment needs.Any questions we can help.If you have manuals for your equipment,they should have a wiring diagram, or at least a description of what is needed to protect the equipment.

Post Reply